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The electrolytic capacitors you describe are standard Elna 150 degree celcius types and their value is typically 680uF 10V. If the circuit reference on the board suggests C1260 and C1261 and they are both the same capacitance and voltage value, they should be easy to obtain and replace. Uprate their capacitance value from 680uF to 1000uF and if the originals were 10V, upgrade the working voltage of both to 25 - 50V - they should still fit the board.
These types of caps are available from most electronics stores including Radio Shack, and are inexpensive. I recommend that you replace ALL the electrolytics in the power supply of this unit to prevent the likelihood of further failure. Because they are inexpensive, replacing ALL of them at once in a circuit is easier than just changing 1 or 2 caps. Talk to your brother again - and I bet he will agree that all the caps should be replaced, even if some still look OK.
Apparently some defective components were used in the construction of the logic board (see photo). On my C6180 there were 3 failed capacitors (the green cylinders - the puffed top indicates failure) and a 4th from the same manufacturer (TEAPO - many unfavorable web references to this manufacturer). I purchased 3x 330uF 16V and 1x 680uF 10v rated to 105 degrees Celsius (total about 60cents). On the logic board, the capacitors I replaced are labeled C613, C614, C660 and C662. If you are not comfortable replacing the parts yourself (or don't have a soldering tool), you will have to find someone who will. The time to repair should be less than 30 min - I did it in 25 min with only a solder pen. This also fixed the ink system failures the printer was having. A similar fix may apply to other printers.
My C6180 had the same error code. Apparently some defective components were used in the construction of the logic board (see photo). On my C6180 there were 3 failed capacitors (the green cylinders - the puffed top indicates failure) and a 4th from the same manufacturer (TEAPO - many unfavorable web references to this manufacturer). I purchased 3x 330uF 16V and 1x 680uF 10v rated to 105 degrees Celsius (total about 60cents). On the logic board, the capacitors I replaced are labeled C613, C614, C660 and C662. If you are not comfortable replacing the parts yourself (or don't have a soldering tool), you will have to find someone who will. The time to repair should be less than 30 min - I did it in 25 min with only a solder pen. A similar fix may apply to other printers .
Apparently some defective components were used in the construction of the logic board (see photo). On my C6180 there were 3 failed capacitors (the green cylinders - the puffed top indicates failure) and a 4th from the same manufacturer (TEAPO - many unfavorable web references to this manufacturer). I purchased 3x 330uF 16V and 1x 680uF 10v rated to 105 degrees Celsius (total about 60cents). On the logic board, the capacitors I replaced are labeled C613, C614, C660 and C662. If you are not comfortable replacing the parts yourself (or don't have a soldering tool), you will have to find someone who will. The time to repair should be less than 30 min - I did it in 25 min with only a solder pen. This also fixed the ink system failures (0xc1....) the printer was having. A similar fix may apply to other printers.
You need to check on the power supply board for Bad Capacitors they will be vented,swollen, or puffed up on Top. 680uf 10v,330uf 10v 3300uf 10v 2200uf 10v,
This same error started occurring on my printer and eventually it would constantly power
on and off. Apparently some defective components were used in the
construction of the logic board (see photo). On my C6180 there were 3
failed capacitors (the green cylinders - the puffed top indicates
failure) and a 4th from the same manufacturer (TEAPO - many unfavorable
web references to this manufacturer). I purchased 3x 330uF 16V and 1x
680uF 10v rated to 105 degrees Celsius (total about 60cents). On the
logic board, the capacitors I replaced are labeled C613, C614, C660 and
C662. If you are not comfortable replacing the parts yourself (or don't
have a soldering tool), you will have to find someone who will. The time
to repair should be less than 30 min - I did it in 25 min with only a
solder pen. This also fixed the ink system failures the printer was
having. A similar fix may apply to other printers.
Apparently some defective components were used in the construction of the logic board (see photo). On my C6180 there were 3 failed capacitors (the green cylinders - the puffed top indicates failure) and a 4th from the same manufacturer (TEAPO - many unfavorable web references to this manufacturer). I purchased 3x 330uF 16V and 1x 680uF 10v rated to 105 degrees Celsius (total about 60cents). On the logic board, the capacitors I replaced are labeled C613, C614, C660 and C662. If you are not comfortable replacing the parts yourself (or don't have a soldering tool), you will have to find someone who will. The time to repair should be less than 30 min - I did it in 25 min with only a solder pen. This fix stopped my printer from power cycling and also fixed the ink system failures the printer was having.
My C6180 would constantly power on and off. Apparently some defective components were used in the construction of the logic board (see photo). On my C6180 there were 3 failed capacitors (the green cylinders - the puffed top indicates failure) and a 4th from the same manufacturer (TEAPO - many unfavorable web references to this manufacturer). I purchased 3x 330uF 16V and 1x 680uF 10v rated to 105 degrees Celsius (total about 60cents). On the logic board, the capacitors I replaced are labeled C613, C614, C660 and C662. If you are not comfortable replacing the parts yourself (or don't have a soldering tool), you will have to find someone who will. The time to repair should be less than 30 min - I did it in 25 min with only a solder pen. This also fixed the ink system failures the printer was having. A similar fix may apply to other printers
This is indicative of a bad main board that will need replaced. For this model make sure the repair person has the full product code (from the back of the unit) so that they can get the correct main board ordered (there are multiple versions depending on the product code). Hope this helps.
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