How do I remove the plastic inside cover to clean?

well first ive never read in any manual that tells the homeowner to remove cover on any apliance , in fact the only cleaning ive ever read is clean the filter , this is right in front on side and slides right out and can be washed in sink with soap and water (do not scrub) but yes cleaning the condenser coils will require you to remove cover this is purposly made somewhat a challenge to discourage homeowners from hurting them selfs as there are live electrical parts and sharp edges inside , i sugest a qualified appliance repairman be contracted to have a look

units that leak some times are a total loss but not allways , sometimes its just not being used on level surface (water seeks level allways) , there are lots of ports inside that need to be kept clean for all the units water to drain out , look inside with a flashlight to see if any buildup is obvious that might be cleaned off ? if not a last effort is to remove cover to see 1st hand what cause is(remove power plug 1st) , rust /mold/dust are all common things to find inside that affect units operation

Probably have some plastic clips on the inside, like a car dash or door cover..try using a standard screwdriver and lightly pry open could also slide off

WHEN I BROUGHT MINE I HAVE A HOSE RUNNING TO A FLOOR DRAIN BUT REMOVE THE HOSE SEE IF THERE IS A PLASTIC COVER INSIDE WHERE THE HOSE HOOKS ON FROM THE FACTORY THE CONDENSATE PAN IS MENT TO HOLD WATER AND THIS PLASTIC PIECE HAS TO BE REMOVED FOR HOSE USE

The de-humidifier is a niche product. Its only job is to remove moisture from air to alleviate the problems of mould and mildew. It is very similar in operation to a window air conditioner.

A dehumidifier though will add heat to the room, while an air conditioner will remove heat.

The de-humidifier is an appliance that requires regular maintenance. This may be because it’s icing up, overflowing, not removing enough moisture, or simply time for a good cleaning to maintain its efficiency. If you don’t feel handy enough to attempt this project contact your appliance repairperson.

The following is a step-by-step method used to return your de-humidifiers to its peak efficiency.

Tools required

1 Multi pocket container (old ice cube tray)

2 Long handled brush

3 Oil can

4 Rags

5 De-greaser or spray detergent

6 Selection of screwdrivers

7 New filter


1… Remove water collection bucket and put aside.

2… Remove the filter from rear of machine. Filer is usually within a frame and simply pops out. If no filter proceed to next step. If it is a disposable filter simply replace it with a new one. Other types are made in a plastic frame and can be cleaned and reused. To clean a filter lay it flat in the sink and sprinkle surface with powder laundry detergent. Plug sink drain and turn on hot water. Cover filter with enough water to submerge. Soak for 15 minutes. Remove from water and rinse. Hang up to dry while proceeding to next step.

3… Remove the rear grille from the main body of de-humidifier. If none proceed to next step. If there is resistance then look for hidden screws. If grille locks into cover proceed to next step. Once removed place the grille aside until later.

Tip: Dehumidifier may use different types and sizes of screws. Use ice cube tray to segregate.

4… Remove metal cover of de-humidifier to access inner workings. Cover screws may be difficult to see because are often painted to match body color. Usually two or three screws along each side of base. Once screws are removed lift the cover straight up. Use extreme caution at this point. Front grille may be secured to cover. Some fronts are put together like a puzzle. Parts often interconnect or are screwed to one another. If front grille lifts off with cover try to separate before proceeding. Front grille may lock into groove along front edge of cover. Avoid pulling off any wires from humidistat or indicator light.

5… When cover removed this will expose the heating and cooling coil. They may appear as one but are actually two separate coils in very close proximity. Both will need to be cleaned.

Use a narrow brush to remove surface dust and dirt from the front and rear surfaces of coils. Use an up and down motion to avoid bending fins. Area between two coils must also be cleaned. Use caution, the fins are soft aluminum and can be easily damaged. Once surface dirt is removed, spray with de-greaser or light cleaner. There is a good product on the market called HVAC cleaner. As the name implies it is meant for Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioner coil cleaning. If this is not available Fantastic Spray cleaner used in kitchens and bathrooms works quite well. Remove dirt and excess cleaner by slowly pouring warm water into fins. Do not allow the water to enter any electrical connections or components. As an added precaution cover the motor with one of the cloth rags to protect it from the water.

6… With cover, rear grille, and front grilles removed locate fan motor for oil holes. Add a few drops of oil to each end of the motor body. Use a general purpose (3in1) oil or clean motor oil. A #30 oil is sufficient. Three or four drops on both ends of the motor body are sufficient. Add the oil slowly, pausing a few seconds between each drop. If added too quickly over-lubrication will result.

7… Straighten any bent fins. Use a fin comb if available. If no fin comb then use something soft such as a Popsicle stick. Straightening the fins will increase the efficiency of the airflow through the coils. Use caution as these coils are filled with high-pressure refrigerant.

8… Wipe any dirt from fan blade using a soft rag. Do not bend blades. This would cause a vibration that would harm the motor.

9… Vacuum all surfaces including front and back of grille assembly. Vacuum underside of metal cover. Vacuum dirt buildup from base and any other exposed surfaces.

10… Drain any water left in the base and allow it to dry.

11… When completely dry plug in and test operation. On some models testing may require temporary override of bucket overflow switch. Test that cooling coil begins to sweat water within few minutes of operation. If everything appears okay unplug and reassemble. Insert water collection bucket slowly to avoid damaging float switch mechanism.

problem fixed with the fan motor not running.

heres how i did it for anyone who experiences the same problem

1.) open back of unit(6 screws and pop tabs)

2.) with back cover open youll have access to compressor and fan-locate the blower assembly and remove the nut on it i used a 3/8 wrench from dollartree and rotated the blower fan while turning-its plastic be careful and remember righty tighty lefty loosey)

3.) with fan assembly off youll see the motor with 2 phillips head screws-taking these screws out with a power screwdriver allows the bearing assembly closest to the fan assembly,shaft,armeture and motor assembly to come out leaving rear bearing assembly attached to chassis

4.) once the motor assembly is completely out gently rest it against the fan hole and cut the silver tape being careful to ONLY cut the silver tape and the first white tape strip.

5.) youll see 3 wires and some insulator sleeves covering them leave everything alone except the ORANGE wire this wire attaches to the thermal fuse than to the windings
CAREFULLY heat up your soldering iron and remove the orange to thermal fuse connection than carefully thermal fuse to windings its a bit of a pain but can be done with patience

6.) remove original thermal fuse noting EXACTLY where original is placed on windings-it will have a small tape strip on it. replace it with one of EXACT OR NEAR THERMAL RATINGS a good choice is radioshack 270-1322. this thermal fuse is ratyed 10 amps max. but remember thermal fuses go by degree of heat and not by amp rating unless the amperage is in excess to melt the thermal material inside-my original fuse was 2 amps and 130 degrees celcius new fuse was 129degrees but plus minus 2 degrees so its a good choice and costs under 2 dollars

7.) place a heatsink clip or needlenose pliers between thermal fuse and solder connections BEFORE YOU SOLDER IT IN PLACE this prevents your 700 degree f iron from melting the fuse(remember its thermal not amperage were talking about here)
solder orange to thermal fuse with plastic extension than flat end to winding wire exactly opposite of how removed

8.) tape fuse in ORIGINAL LOCATION AS OLD FUSE i used scotch tape,place the thermal white protector piece on orange to fuse wire and push everything back down in original places-there should be no contact with any other wires etc. it will cause a fire

9.) once fuse is in place push tape you cut earlier back on and put 2 or 3 small scotch tape pieces of good length to secure the innards, lube the rear bearing of motor using vasoline- a few dollups will do it do the same for front slide motor winding assembly holding it in place than replace armeture with front bearing attaches as they came out secure the 2 screws back in place, put fan blade assembly back on(its keyed) secure nut and reassemble back

if you did everything correctly it will work like new just remember this time CLEAN YOUR FILTER SCREEN REGULARILY lol its critical for proper fan cooling

that should do it:)

This will need to be serviced. LG has a 5 year warranty on these models. They usually will tell you of a service center nearby which will service it free of charge since it is under warranty. If you do not live near a service center they may ship you a replacement and you send your old dehumidifier back to them. Make sure you have your reciept when you contact them so they can verify it is under 5 years old.

Remove the drain bucket. on the top there are two pieces that can be removed just by taking them out. they are just laying in there. 1 is the brush the other is the "drain tube insert" it is a plastic tube and has a threaded fitting on one end. take your garden hose with a female connector on one end just like you were going to install on your spicket outside of your house and connect it to the threaded end of the "drain tube insert" make sure you knockout the round plastic drain plug cover hole located in the back of the unit (it is behind where your power cord was stored) it has three tabs to break. remove drain bucket. take the drain tube with hose attatched and insert it into the drain plug hole in the back and attach it onto the drain outlet (the drain outlet is inside the drain bucket side at the top it looks like an elbow fitting) push the tube so that the flap with the arrow is flush with the back. once you get the "drain tube insert" almost all the way flush with the back -->if you look inside the drain bucket side you will see where it fits over the drain outlet

I just fixed the same problem on my DE-500P. The pump filter was blocked and there was a layer of scummy lint-like stuff in the bottom of the pump reservoir (not the main - or overflow tank) also blocking flow down through the filter to the pump. Repair steps are as follows:

1. Remove the overflow water tank and the two side covers (five screws in each). Note that as you go through the removal of all the covers and other procedures, there are two lengths of screws; don't switch them. If you lose track, the rule of thumb is use the short screws for going through a single layer of plastic into metal.

2. Remove the rear cover (take out the screws along the bottom and on the sides). It will still be attached to the front top cover at the top with tab fasteners. Gently pull out the bottom of the cover while depressing the top of it on both sides with your thumbs (about an inch and a half inside the trim ridges) to clear the tabs. Ease the top part of the cover back and remove it (it will have to tilt to one side, don't forget this when putting it back on).

3. Remove the top cover, not forgetting the two screws on top by where the back cover attached (go gently, there's a wiring harness) and turn it to the side. There was enough slack to leave the wires connected; just be careful to not damage them.

4. The filter looks like a small transparent in-line gas filter. Remove the pump filter, leaving the short tube attached to the top of it. I quickly atttached a length of tubing to drain the reservoir into a bucket. I couldn't find a replacement filter, so I filed a slot in the side of the bottom half of it to remove the gunk using the wire from a twist tie (the upper half had some tabs inside that would have been in the way). Afterwards, I wrapped it tightly with stretchy electrical tape and put a wire tie over the tape at the slot to keep the tape from being able to creep loose over time. Don't use a fuel filter, the paper element is too fine (you need a screen) and the paper will fall apart in water.

4. Remove the float and bracket from the pump reservoir. The reservoir screws are not all apparent; there's also a screw way over on the left and one coming in from the right. I used a 12 inch #2 phillips screwdriver with a magnetized tip for most of this. Remove the pump reservoir and clean out the scummy stuff in the bottom and where the tubes attach. When removing the reservoir, you'll have to detach the vent line that goes through the bulkhead to where the big tank was and pull the tab above it down slightly while easing the tank out.

5. Clean out any dirty tubes, paying particular attention to the coupling for the drain hose and the long drain hose itself.

6. Put the reservoir back in and hook up all the tubes and filter. It does make a difference in which direction the filter goes back in. You want the water from the reservoir to go through the filter from the outside of the little screen; that leaves the maximum room for crud build-up before it plugs up the screen again.

7. Depending on your confidence level, at this point you may want to plug in the dehumidfier, put the overflow tank in, turn it on, turn on the pump, and fill the pump reservoir to check for functioning and leaks. If you do this, just remember that the circuits are hot and not all are insulated.

8. If all is OK, unplug the dehumidifier and put the covers back on. Total time was about an hour.

I just fixed the same problem on my DE-500P. The pump filter was blocked and there was a layer of scummy lint-like stuff in the bottom of the pump reservoir (not the main - or overflow tank) also blocking flow down through the filter to the pump. The line you tried to plug is probably the vent line for the pump reservoir. It attaches to a fitting on the removable tank side of the bulkhead. Unstop the vent. Repair steps are as follows:

1. Remove the overflow water tank and the two side covers (five screws in each). Note that as you go through the removal of all the covers and other procedures, there are two lengths of screws; don't switch them. If you lose track, the rule of thumb is use the short screws for going through a single layer of plastic into metal.

2. Remove the rear cover (take out the screws along the bottom and on the sides). It will still be attached to the front top cover at the top with tab fasteners. Gently pull out the bottom of the cover while depressing the top of it on both sides with your thumbs (about an inch and a half inside the trim ridges) to clear the tabs. Ease the top part of the cover back and remove it (it will have to tilt to one side, don't forget this when putting it back on).

3. Remove the top cover, not forgetting the two screws on top by where the back cover attached (go gently, there's a wiring harness) and turn it to the side. There was enough slack to leave the wires connected; just be careful to not damage them.

4. The filter looks like a small transparent in-line gas filter. Remove the pump filter, leaving the short tube attached to the top of it. I quickly atttached a length of tubing to drain the reservoir into a bucket. I couldn't find a replacement filter, so I filed a slot in the side of the bottom half of it to remove the gunk using the wire from a twist tie (the upper half had some tabs inside that would have been in the way). Afterwards, I wrapped it tightly with stretchy electrical tape and put a cable tie over the tape at the slot to keep the tape from being able to creep loose over time. Don't use a fuel filter, the paper element is too fine (you need a screen) and the paper will fall apart in water.

4. Remove the float and bracket from the pump reservoir. The reservoir screws are not all apparent; there's also a screw way over on the left and one coming in from the right. I used a 12 inch #2 phillips screwdriver with a magnetized tip for most of this. Remove the pump reservoir and clean out the scummy stuff in the bottom and where the tubes attach. When removing the reservoir, you'll have to detach the vent line that goes through the bulkhead to where the big tank was and pull the tab above it down slightly while easing the tank out.

5. Clean out any dirty tubes, paying particular attention to the coupling for the drain hose and the long drain hose itself.

6. Put the reservoir back in and hook up all the tubes and filter. It does make a difference in which direction the filter goes back in. You want the water from the reservoir to go through the filter from the outside of the little screen; that leaves the maximum room for crud build-up before it plugs up the screen again. Newer ones have a flow direction arrow; point it away from the reservoir.

7. Depending on your confidence level, at this point you may want to plug in the dehumidfier, put the overflow tank in, turn it on, turn on the pump, and fill the pump reservoir to check for functioning and leaks. If you do this, just remember that the circuits are hot and not all are insulated.

8. If all is OK, unplug the dehumidifier and put the covers back on. Total time was about an hour.