Inverter will not shut down. I turn off the remote switch in my motorhome or the master switch or the switch on the inverter and it remains on. This will discharge my batteries won't it?

Hi Jimbo, generally this issue is from defective LED lamps, the inverter is shutting down because of over current because of shorted LED's. All the main board knows (the board that issues the error codes) is the inverter shut down, it has no way of knowing why.

The reason why these things still draw power even with the power "off" is that the power switch doesn't actually disconnect the 12V input. What is happening is, the power switch shuts down all the inverter electronics, but everything is still connected and so can draw a little power. Usually they will draw only a slight amount of current, usually under 30 ma.

To stop all draw on your battery, unplug the inverter from the 12 volt power outlet. (Assuming it remains energized when the car is off.)

Unit is shutdown with display showing "OPP"

Inverter is short circuit and has shut down.

Reset to normal operation by using manual switch

Backlight inverter board should be checked.

Find the dip switches inside the remote and switch the #1 switch on for one second then back off. Your panel should blink for 8 hours. Equalizing is not required for gel cell. If your battery array falls below 8 vt the system shuts off. Remove the 12 vt load (turn every thing off) during this procedure as higher than normal voltage is applied to the batteries. Also they will be giving off more than normal hydrogen gas during this process.

I have up-loaded the manual for these and will be posted in about 24 hrs.

I am assuming that no fault lights are showing on the remote panel, but if they are, then those indicate a problem, e.g. overtemp, or AC overload. If the former, allow the unit to cool down and/or provide more ventilation, and if the latter, reduce the AC load by turning things off. The inverter must be in "standby" mode (green inverter light slowly flashing) for the inverter function to come on automatically when the incoming AC is shut off. Also, the battery bank voltage must be between 10V and 15V for a 12V system, the inline battery fuse must not be blown, and the unit's pop-up breaker (on the right front of the box) must not be tripped.

Two possible problems; input voltage too low, or the output load too high. If input remains at 12v or higher and it shuts off with no load, then the inverter is bad.

First, you should be aware that the exact inverter is available for under 40 dollars all over the US. Your model is sold under several names - check out http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=inverter .

I suspect that your INPUT power level is not adequate for the inverter to put out the 200W that the 150W charger needs. If you have low current and low voltage - then the inverter can only put out a proportionally smaller AC wattage level. You may also have a faulty voltage sensor....at the input. Once the inverter sees a low level (even momentarily), it alarms and shuts down the output until the unit is reset (turned off/back on)

This is over a year old, so presumably you solved your problem, but for reference for anyone else reading, the only connection between the inverter/charger and the remote panel is the RJ-11 phone type jack through which the remote panel also draws its power. Just make sure it is firmly seated (until it clicks) on both ends and that the wire is not crimped, cut, or chaffed in between. Otherwise, likely a defective remote panel.

You are definitely on the right track. When you choose your power inverter consider the following: buy the inverter for around 40% more of your anticiapted load. You will need a double pole transfer switch to isolate the inverter from the generator(and visa versa). A simple double throw double pole switch with fuse or breaker protection should do it. You wouldn't necessarily have to isolate the curbside circuit as the double pole double throw switch would simply be switching the power from the existing generator to your new inverter for only the roadside circuit; i.e. you don't need to worry about the curbside power source as it will always be connected to the other branch circuit. Even if your generator or other source came on the system would be protected no matter what the the roadside configuration was set to as only one source of the 2 roadside power sources would be connected at any give time to the roadside circuit. The six dots represent the connecions for the double pole, double throw switch; shown supplying the new inverter to the roadside circuit while the source from the existing generator or inverter is disconnected via this switch from the roadside circuit:

existing * *------* new power inverter; switched to source
* *------*
^
Middle 2 dots represent your roadside circuit and represent the "throw arm" of the switch. Safe and simple! If you don't have a voltage meter for your batteries you can purchase one for a few bucks. Just run it across the terminals so you will know battery condition as it is being drained (you may already have this indicator) You can find a transfer switch at an electrical supply place, maybe even Lowes. Make sure you get the switch that will be in a protected enclosre. The enclosurre can be purchased seperately if you can't find the switch/enclosure package together.

Good luck....gary