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With your unit switched off, vacuum them with a brush attachment. If still dirty, you can spray with a degreasant spray and then gently rinse with a towel under the coils. Dry with a hair dryer. That is how refrigeration techs do it.
In order to properly clean the coils on your Frigidaire dehumidifier you can use a vacuum with a grill attachment or a damp cloth. I hope this information has been beneficial. -Matt
Probably have some plastic clips on the inside, like a car dash or door cover..try using a standard screwdriver and lightly pry open could also slide off
I have the exact problem with my LG LHD45EL as lubbock51's Aug 17, 2010 question. (see below) Isn't there anyone out there that's had this same problem and resolved it. I too am afraid to pry the grill for fear of breaking it...it made out of plastic so it won't take much to break the grill if I did.
By lubbock51 on Aug 17, 2010 I have an LG LHD45EL dehumidifier.
The manual shows removing the front grille to clean the coil by
placing a hand on each side and pulling toward you. Mine won't budge
and I'm afraid to pry the plastic in fear of breaking it. Any
suggestions?
The
coils you see on the back of your dehumidifier are the evaporator. When
the unit runs, the coils get very cold. As the fan draws the room air
over the coils, the humidity in the air condenses out of the air onto
the cold coils. But, if the temperature of the air the fan draws over
the coils is too cool, the humidity that condenses out of the air
freezes on the coils.
To remedy this problem, you can try any of these: Warm up the room the dehumidifier is in. Put the dehumidifier on a sturdy table (the room air is coolest near the ground). Turn the unit off until the room warms up.
THIS UNIT HAS A REMOVABLE WASHABLE FILTER.. IS YOURS MISSING? IF NOT REMOVE FILTER AND CLEAN IT... TAKE OUT THE BUCKET IT IS RIGHT ABOVE WHERE THE BUCKET SITS...
The de-humidifier is a niche product. Its only job is to remove
moisture from air to alleviate the problems of mould and mildew. It is
very similar in operation to a window air conditioner.
A dehumidifier though will add heat to the room, while an air conditioner will remove heat.
The de-humidifier is an appliance that requires regular maintenance.
This may be because it’s icing up, overflowing, not removing enough
moisture, or simply time for a good cleaning to maintain its
efficiency. If you don’t feel handy enough to attempt this project
contact your appliance repairperson.
The following is a step-by-step method used to return your de-humidifiers to its peak efficiency.
Tools required
1 Multi pocket container (old ice cube tray)
2 Long handled brush
3 Oil can
4 Rags
5 De-greaser or spray detergent
6 Selection of screwdrivers
7 New filter
1… Remove water collection bucket and put aside.
2… Remove the filter from rear of machine. Filer is usually within a
frame and simply pops out. If no filter proceed to next step. If it is
a disposable filter simply replace it with a new one. Other types are
made in a plastic frame and can be cleaned and reused. To clean a
filter lay it flat in the sink and sprinkle surface with powder laundry
detergent. Plug sink drain and turn on hot water. Cover filter with
enough water to submerge. Soak for 15 minutes. Remove from water and
rinse. Hang up to dry while proceeding to next step.
3… Remove the rear grille from the main body of de-humidifier. If none
proceed to next step. If there is resistance then look for hidden
screws. If grille locks into cover proceed to next step. Once removed
place the grille aside until later.
Tip: Dehumidifier may use different types and sizes of screws. Use ice cube tray to segregate.
4… Remove metal cover of de-humidifier to access inner workings. Cover
screws may be difficult to see because are often painted to match body
color. Usually two or three screws along each side of base. Once screws
are removed lift the cover straight up. Use extreme caution at this
point. Front grille may be secured to cover. Some fronts are put
together like a puzzle. Parts often interconnect or are screwed to one
another. If front grille lifts off with cover try to separate before
proceeding. Front grille may lock into groove along front edge of
cover. Avoid pulling off any wires from humidistat or indicator light.
5… When cover removed this will expose the heating and cooling coil.
They may appear as one but are actually two separate coils in very
close proximity. Both will need to be cleaned.
Use a narrow brush to remove surface dust and dirt from the front and
rear surfaces of coils. Use an up and down motion to avoid bending
fins. Area between two coils must also be cleaned. Use caution, the
fins are soft aluminum and can be easily damaged. Once surface dirt is
removed, spray with de-greaser or light cleaner. There is a good
product on the market called HVAC cleaner. As the name implies it is
meant for Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioner coil cleaning. If
this is not available Fantastic Spray cleaner used in kitchens and
bathrooms works quite well. Remove dirt and excess cleaner by slowly
pouring warm water into fins. Do not allow the water to enter any
electrical connections or components. As an added precaution cover the
motor with one of the cloth rags to protect it from the water.
6… With cover, rear grille, and front grilles removed locate fan motor
for oil holes. Add a few drops of oil to each end of the motor body.
Use a general purpose (3in1) oil or clean motor oil. A #30 oil is
sufficient. Three or four drops on both ends of the motor body are
sufficient. Add the oil slowly, pausing a few seconds between each
drop. If added too quickly over-lubrication will result.
7… Straighten any bent fins. Use a fin comb if available. If no fin
comb then use something soft such as a Popsicle stick. Straightening
the fins will increase the efficiency of the airflow through the coils.
Use caution as these coils are filled with high-pressure refrigerant.
8… Wipe any dirt from fan blade using a soft rag. Do not bend blades. This would cause a vibration that would harm the motor.
9… Vacuum all surfaces including front and back of grille assembly.
Vacuum underside of metal cover. Vacuum dirt buildup from base and any
other exposed surfaces.
10… Drain any water left in the base and allow it to dry.
11… When completely dry plug in and test operation. On some models
testing may require temporary override of bucket overflow switch. Test
that cooling coil begins to sweat water within few minutes of
operation. If everything appears okay unplug and reassemble. Insert
water collection bucket slowly to avoid damaging float switch mechanism.
Hi,
If you haven't done so already, try removing and cleaning the inlet filter screen which is almost certainly just behing the inlet grille. It may slide upwards out of the casing or downwards unto the bucket area. If this is blocked with fluff then no moist air will get to the cold pipes, so little or no water will be extracted. There's also a chance that the humidity sensor is clogged with fluff, so fooling the system into thinking the room is pretty dry, in which case the compressor will probably not run.
A running compressor can usually be detected as a deep throbbing from the machine. If it is running, but not cooling the pipes behind the intake grille, then you may have lost the refrigerant from the system via a leak. If the air coming out of the machine is warm (caused by the compressor running) but there is no water produced this may be the cause.
Explore along these lines and let me know what you find.
Cheers, D
This will need to be serviced. LG has a 5 year warranty on these models. They usually will tell you of a service center nearby which will service it free of charge since it is under warranty. If you do not live near a service center they may ship you a replacement and you send your old dehumidifier back to them. Make sure you have your reciept when you contact them so they can verify it is under 5 years old.
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