Question about Ovens
Posted on Dec 25, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: amana oven
F-9 means:Door lock safety circuit on ERC sensed Replace the door latch assembly
To solve this...Just press and hold the door latch to unlock position and then press cancel for a few seconds. The latch will return to its original position
This will probably fix it..but if doesnt work try this
Try unplugging the oven from the electrical power. May release the lock, which is held in place by a tiny micro switch. If not and while the electric is still off or the oven is unplugged, use a bright light flashlight to look through the slot where the lock is in the oven, not in the door.
You may be able to use a thin blade screwdriver to move the lock to the release position. Check the angle of the lever. A slightly bent lever handle also can cause this type of condition.
If all else fails, remove the access panel on the front of the oven to access the locking device and release it. May have to disconnect the wires to the lock which will allow door to function but not during any self cleaning modes.
Posted on Oct 17, 2007
SOURCE: Double GE wall oven - F7 code
F7 A = Function pad button stuck or
B = Bad clock Unstick button or
Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC)
It looks like you have a function button pad stuck or a bad clock.
Unstick button or replace electronic range control.
Posted on Apr 27, 2009
Contained within the oven, usually behind the backgurad, there is a tech sheet. DISCONNECT POWER and pull off back panel behind backguard to locate sheet. Within this sheet there are a list of fault codes and the corrective procedure.
Posted on Aug 24, 2009
SOURCE: GE Profile Double Oven F1 Error
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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