How do I fix a blown microwave fuse?

If the fuse is blown the microwave would be "dead". Are you sure the bulb is good?

sounds like a cross wire, and a short. I'd inspect the socket for the bulbs to ensure that there's no short circuit.

Are these little spot lights? About the size of 1/2 dollar round and maybe 1.5 -2 inches long? 2 prongs about 1/2 inch apart? Take one of those lights and show it to a local hardware dealer like "Lowes". There are may types and some are 12V some are 110V. Thats why I suggest showing to the local hardware guy.

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There function is prevent the oven to work whit the door open
some are normally close and some normally open when one of then don’t work properly causes a short and blow the main fuse check the all and replace the faulty one but be careful and don’t test the microwave
Whit the cover removed.

Note:
if you have a blown fuse buy several emplacement fuses because my take several trays to fix the problem and you will need more than one fuse.

We see (and repair) this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

There should also be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

Once you remove the control panel assembly, the fuse is located in a holder behind that area toward the top. The tech sheet shows part locations.

But you'll almost certainly need to have the control board repaired.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

This can often also affect the exhaust fan operation, too. The lights and fan can be inoperable or stuck on too.

Details of our service and critical safety information and disassembly information is at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

SAME PROBLEM FOR ME...I REMOVED THE BOTTOM COVER AND FOUND THAT ONE LIGHT WAS NOT FIXED AND WAS LOOSE AND WAS TOUCHING THE GLASS. THIS HEAT WAS WHAT BROKE THE GLASS COVER. CLOSED INSPECTION SHOWED THE LIGHT SOCKET WAS TOO LARGE FOR THE CLIPS AND WERE NOT SECURED WHEN PURCHASED. I GOT SMALL SCREW AND NUT, BENT CLIPS SO THE SOCKET HOLE MATCHED THE HOLE MADE BY THE CLIP AND SECURELY ATTACHED THE SOCKET. THIS WILL SECURE THE LIGHT AND KEEP IT FROM TOUCHING THE GLASS..........IF I CAN EVER FIND A GLASS REPLACEMENT....MAY JUST HAVE ONE CUT. NOW THE PROBLEM IS TO REPLACE THE LIGHT AND MICROWAVE FUSE WHICH WAS BLOWN WHEN THE GLASS BROKE.

This is a problem with the control board, which we commonly repair for $32.50. This is caused by not disconnecting the microwave from the power line when removing or installing a bulb. Feel free to e-mail me at _ for more information or visit _ for full details.

The problem is damage to the control circuit board. This damage is usually caused by removing or installing light bulbs without disconnecting the oven from the power line first. We regularly repair these GE / Samsung smart boards for this problem for customers from across the country for $32.50. We have an important file called "safety.txt" which you can find by doing a search for "microwave safety.txt" on Yahoo.com. It's important information to consider before proceeding. When the varistor fails, it will be shorted. That will cause the whole oven to be "dead". It's almost certainly fine.