The existing outlets in my kitchen are 20 amp. Can I replace them with 15 amp GFCI's, which are a lot cheaper than 20 amp? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Yes you can plug a 15 amp to a 20 amp, but not the other way around, as long as your drawing less current (amps) then the plug is rated for you all set.

tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the DRYER parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads.

if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you APPLIANCE should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.


The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the MACHINE is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

Jan 2013
1) Yes. With 6 amps.
It is not purely code, but generally not dangerous.
Most household outlets and switches sold at home center are actually rated 15 amp, and should be on a 15 amp breaker. just don't overload.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-household-electricity.html#heat

2) However if you are running close-to or higher amps than 15 amps, such as space heater (volts x amps = watts), then I would suggest installing 20 amp arc-fault breaker, and protect whole circuit.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#arc-fault

3) Add comment and say what you do.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Light fixtures usually use 15 amps and outlets usually use 20 amps. The wire rating is also different. A bathroom outlet should be seperate from the light circuit especially when it should be a Ground Fault Circuit Interupter (GFCI) near a water source. Of course you can use a 15 amp, non GFCI with the light circuit, just make sure you connect to the supply line and not one of the load lines. Also make sure it is far from any water.

Any off-the-shelf GFCI sold today with work on 12-2 wire:
By code, 12-2 wire should be connected to 20 amp circuit breaker, but typically most switches and outlets wired to that circuit are rated 15 amp. Amp rating is printed on electrical devices.
Leviton 15 amp 7599-W:
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-7599-W-Receptacle-Feed-Through-SmartlockPro/dp/B000VYO9MU/ref=pd_cp_hi_3
Leviton 20 amp 7899-W
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-7899-W-SmartlockPro-Indicator-Wallplate/dp/B000N663PM/ref=pd_cp_hi_0
Wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html

replace the receptacle, its tripping due to wear . if the unit works fine in another receptacle , its not the unit

Yes. Refrigerators should not be on gfci protected circuits. They should have a dedicated 120v circuit .If your kitchen is new enough to be wired with gfci breakers ,it should also have an outlet dedicated for the refrigerator.

most gfci are 15 amp draws
its quite possible your refer needs 19 or more to start
i would reccommend getting the unit of gfci plug

try to use another out let and see if it is the GFI outlet first if it trip the new outlet then you know it the grill and not the outlet

You must have gfci protection since the power is going to the shower and you don't want anyone to get electrocuted. You can either use a gfci breaker or you can install a regular gfci outlet between the panel and the shower. The outlet will be a cheaper solution to the issue.

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