How do you adjust the front springs s0o that the rod wont bnd and break?

Did you properly adjust the clutch AND the clutch cable after you put in the new cable??? Is the whine only when you pull in the clutch lever and if so when does it start, first portion of lever movement or middle or when the lever is all the way to the handlebar grip??? NO noise when clutch is fully released????

Did you get the balls back into the ramp assembly correctly and install them with multi purpose grease to hold them in position while assembling. Also check that the rest of the parts were assembled correctly.

As a last point confirm that the new caqble assembly is the correct part.

If you hit a curb hard enough to break the rack and pinion, then you have also damaged some other parts in your front end. You need to take the car to an alignment shop and have it checked over. You could be looking at repalceing ball joints, tie rod ends, struts or even control arms. Hope this helps.

The Greenfield clutch (drive belt) is adjusted by spring pressure pulling a long rod that has serations on it. Either the belt has run out of adjustment (= new belt needed) or the adjuster has stuck. Lift up the seat and push the adjusting rod that has a big spring attached to see if you can move it towards the front. Look at the pulley beside the rod, if the belt has stretched too far, the pulley will be hard up against its slot. The pulley moves towards the front to tighten the belt. I just push with my leg to get another "click" out of the adjusting rod. New belts are cheap too.

does it kinda sound like two peices of metal striking each other? most likely the outer tie rod end. the inner tie rod end wouldnt make a sound anything like that, it would snap and you wouldnt be able to steer the car very well.....regardless, this is easy to check. remove the wheel. the object directly behind your brakes is the wheel hub, directly behind the wheel hub is the steering knuckle. connected to the steering knuckle you should find the strut up top, a control arm on the bottom, the sway bar attaches towards the front of the car, the outer tie rod end connects to the hub on the side closest to the rear of the car. connected to the outer tie rod end is the tie rod, which is then connected to your power steering rack and pinion via the inner tie rod ends. you want to locate the outer tie rod end and examine it visually. is the rubber cracked, torn, or missing? if so, replace the outer tie rod end. you will need a 2 jaw puller to remove the old tie rod end, but removal and installation is EASY (i taught my wife how to do it in 5 minutes and she did it successfully in less than 10). depending on how far the jam nut is moved when replacing the tie rod, you may need an alignment after replacing it. if the rubber on the tie rod end looks fine, the noise is probably coming from the strut. when the struts are worn out, the strain of the vehicle bouncing is put on the coil over springs. after a while, the spring can become worn out as well.....this would create a "clunking" sound when going over bumps.....and, if the spring wears out too much, you MIGHT be able to hear a metalic popping sound when the struts reach the damper if the spring hasnt expanded that far yet (this is extremely unlikely tho, more likely than not, the spring would crack/break LONG before you hear this noise and the car would be close to undriveable......). regardless, out tie rod ends are roughly 12-15 bucks each and extremely easy to install. you might be able to find a parts store willing to loan you a 2 jaw puller, but if not they generally run 30-35 dollars....DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A REPAIR MANUAL THE LISTS THE CORRECT TORQUE SETTING FOR THE TIE ROD ENDS. if the bolt isnt torqued propperly, a) your alignment will be off and b) you run the risk of snapping the new tie rod end.

To change the clutch cable on you '79 Sporty, you'll have to take the outer primary cover off. To do this, you'll have to drain the oil from the primary, take the left side foot peg off, and loosen the primary chain adjuster on the bottom side of the primary. Loosen the locknut and use an allen wrench or hex key to screw the adjuster bolt downward.

If you need to know anything else, drop me a line at [email protected]

Then, remove the large "plug" towards the rear of the cover. Inside, you'll see something that looks like a nut but with no threads in it held in by a small spring. This the the lock nut, remove it. Below it is what looks like another nut with a slotted adjuster bolt sticking out. Remover the bolts from around the primary cover and break it loose from the engine. While turning the adjuster screw at the rear of the cover inward, remove the cover.

The cable connects to the cluch release mechanism. By turning the "link" downwards, you can disconnect it from the mechanism. Notice which way the "link" in attached to the release mechanism. Take the "link" off the end of the clutch cable.

Break the lock nut loose at the threaded cable adjuster on the outside of the case and screw the adjuster all the way out of the primary cover. Disconnect the cable at the handlebar lever and your cable is out.

Reinstall the new cable in the reverse order. When replacing the outer primary cover, make sure you use a new gasket on the cover as well as on the foot peg boss. The "foot peg boss gasket" is very important. You'll see an aluminum boss with a threaded rod sticking out of it that holds your left foot peg on. There is a round gasket that goes over this threaded rod and seals against the boss. If you leave this off, your bike will leak oil around this threaded rod when your foot peg goes on. Make sure you specifically ask for the "foot peg boss gasket" when you buy the new primary gasket. It's just a round gasket a bit larger than a quarter.

As you put the primary cover back on, there is a spring on the primary chain adjuster. Part of the spring is in the primary cover and the other part is in the engine. You'll see how it goes in. There is a large stud in that area that the outer primary cover slides up on. Adjust the tension on the primary chain by removing the "plug" at the top of the primary cover. You want 3/4" to 7/8" up and down play in the chain with the engine cold.

On the adjuster, as you're installing the outer cover, turn the ajuster screw back into the clutch release mechanism by turning the screw backwards. Once you have the outer primary cover completely installed, you must adjust the release mechanism. Adjust the screw inwards until you feel a resistance, then back the screw off about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn, insert the "lock nut" and spring, and install the "plug". Then, using the cable adjuster on the outside of the cover, adjust the cable. Add oil.

This is usually caused by a broke plastic retaining clip.the inside handel should have a insert covering a screw pop out the insert and remove the screw. If there is no rod atached to the handel (broke clip) locate the rod in the door (a metal coat hanger works good) pull on the rod towards the front of the door and it should open.Replace the clip or sometimes the handel itself breaks needing replaced.

Hope you get a handel on it!!

Ford has a technical service bulletin out on this vehicle that may help solve your problem. The number is 04-6-1.
Here is the info:

ISSUE: Some 2000-2004 Focus vehicles may exhibit a front end creaking, crunching, grinding and/or rattling noise from the front suspension while driving at slow speeds, over bumps, and/or while turning.
ACTION: Noise, vibration, harness (NVH) conditions may originate from many areas. A thorough inspection of the front suspension is necessary to determine the cause. To service, refer to the following Service Procedure and inspect the suggested areas first.
SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Inspect front strut fasteners and confirm that they are tightened to the correct torque.
   1. Front strut to front knuckle, (one (1) driver / one (1) passenger), 90 N-m (67 lb-ft).
   2. Front strut mount to body, (three (3) driver / three (3) passenger), 30 N-m (22 lb-ft).
   3. Front strut rod to strut mount, (one (1) driver / one (1) passenger), 66 N-m (49 lb-ft). NOTE: MEASUREMENT OF TORQUE MUST BE DONE IN THE TIGHTENING DIRECTION. NOTE: IN ORDER TO APPLY THE PROPER TORQUE TO THE FRONT STRUT ROD TO STRUT MOUNT FASTENER, A HEX KEY WILL BE REQUIRED TO HOLD THE STRUT ROD IN PLACE WHILE TIGHTENING THE NUT.
      
2. Inspect for loose stabilizer bar end links.
   1. Firmly grasp the links and shake them - both along the direction of the link and transverse to the link orientation in the inboard/outboard vehicle direction. If looseness is felt continue on to Step 2b, if no looseness is felt continue on to Step 3.
   2. Inspect the link end joints. If they do not appear severely corroded, torque the nuts (use anti-rotation feature to prevent ball joint damage) to 50 N-m (36 lb-ft), and repeat Step 2a. If links still feel loose after tightening or if the joint shows evidence of severe corrosion, replace the link (YS4Z-5K484-AA).
3. Inspect for the top spring sleeve coming out of position. This may cause a squeaking noise between the sleeve and indent on the ridge of the upper spring seat, or it may cause a clicking noise between the spring and upper spring seat if the sleeve is completely out of position. If the sleeve is out of position continue on to Step 3a, if the sleeve is positioned properly continue on to Step 4.
   1. Install a new rubber sleeve (1S4Z-8484-AA). Install the new rubber sleeve starting from the top of the spring coil where it contacts the spring plate.
4. If the noise is a clicking or popping from the front strut, install a service spring end cap (4S4Z-5L302-AA) on to the top spring tip. Reassemble and reinstall strut per the Workshop Manual Section 204-01.

adjust the rear brake light switch. you will find it on the right connected to the brake pedal by a rod and spring

Head Restraints Each front seat is equipped with dual-post design front seat back head restraint (611A08). The front seat back head restraint is installed as follows:

• It travels on dual posts which have notches to engage a spring-loaded catch in the guide.
• The front seat back spring assembly retains the front seat head rest guide rod sleeve (610A16).

• The front seat back head restraint is adjustable from its normal position to a raised position of approximately 25 mm (1 inch).
• Pull up on the front seat back head restraint to raise it. Pushing down will return it to its normal position.

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Removal

1. Unscrew front seat head rest guide rod retainers (610A18).
   

1. Pull up on front seat back head restraint (611A08). Compress foam in area of front seat head rest guide rod sleeves (610A16).
   

1. Remove front seat back head restraint positioning springs. Pull front seat back head restraint up and out.
   

Installation

1. Slide front seat head rest guide rod retainers onto front seat back head restraint posts.
   

1. Compress foam in front seat head rest guide rod sleeve area. Install positioning springs on front seat head rest guide rod sleeves.
   

1. Insert front seat back head restraint posts (notches on posts facing rearward) into front seat head rest guide rod sleeves and push down to engage positioning spring.
   

1. Tighten front seat head rest guide rod retainers onto front seat head rest guide rod sleeves.
   

1. NOTE: Front seat back head restraint must operate smoothly throughout its range of travel, must remain in any fixed position, and must not be freely removable from the seat back. If any of these conditions are not met, check for proper installation of positioning spring onto front seat head rest guide rod sleeve.
   
   Adjust front seat back head restraint by applying hand pressure, either up or down, to center area of front seat back head restraint.
   

Check the Vibration damper rods to be sure that...
1. They are there and mount is solid.
2. If they are broken in 1/2.
3. The plastic knuckle mounts are not missing/broken.
4. There is oil in the shock absorber/spring section of the rods.

Also - there are suspension springs on the bottom of the tub that could be broken and/or missing.

Replace/repair as necessary.

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