Have no spark to plug found a 2 wire clip with the same colors at the battery area that is not connected to anything. dont know where to connect trouble finding manuals or video

This is wiring for 2.5 and 4.0L engine, fuel pump. You can see wire colors, at the pump motor, top wire is voltage, bottom wire is ground. If voltage and ground is good and no pump action, suspect the fuel pump, check with engine cranking. Let the starter motor cool a little between cranking. Battery has a full charge and connections all good? Are you missing anything besides fuel? Engine cranking you have spark at the plugs and fuel injector pulse? Can you check for any applicable trouble codes?

The bigger one should connect to your starter relay and the smaller one should connect into as in plug into you wiring harness around the same area. Look for a red wire with a plug that is the same size and that should be what your looking for.

The diagram below should help.

1. Connect an ohmmeter between the TACH and BAT terminals in the distributor cap. The primary coil resistance should be 0 or nearly 0 ohms . If not replace the coil.
2. To check the coil secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the rotor button and the BAT terminal. Note the reading. Connect the ohmmeter between the rotor button and the TACH terminal. Note the reading. The resistance in both cases should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms. Be sure to test between the rotor button and both the BAT and TACH terminals.
3. Replace the coil only if the readings in Step 1 and Step 2 are infinite resistance or out of specification.

All tests included below.

The symptoms of a defective component within the HEI system are exactly the same as those you would encounter in a conventional system. Some of these symptoms are:


Hard or No Starting Rough Idle Poor Fuel Economy Engine misses under load or while accelerating.
If you suspect a problem in your ignition system, there are certain preliminary checks which you should carry out before you begin to check the electronic portions of the system. First, it is extremely important to make sure the vehicle battery is in a good state of charge. A defective or poorly charged battery will cause the various components of the ignition system to read incorrectly when they are being tested. Second, make sure all wiring connections are clean and tight, not only at the battery, but also at the distributor cap, ignition coil, and at the electronic control module.
Instruments designed specifically for testing HEI systems are available from several tool manufacturers. Some of these will even test the module itself. However, the tests given in this section will require only an ohmmeter and a voltmeter.

CAUTION The HEI ignition system can generate voltage of 30,000-50,000 volts. When testing the system, DO NOT hold a spark plug wire while the engine is running or cranking. Personal injury and or damage to the ignition system may result if this caution is not followed.
Since the only change between electronic and conventional ignition systems is in the distributor component area, it is imperative to check the secondary ignition circuit first. If the secondary circuit checks out properly, then the engine condition is probably not the fault of the ignition system.
If the engine won't start, perform this test. This will narrow the problem area down considerably.

1. Remove one of the plug wires and insert a HEI spark tester tool in the plug socket.
2. Ground the spark tester to the block and crank the engine. DO NOT touch the spark plug wire while the engine is cranking.
3. The spark should be crisp and bright blue in color. If a normal spark occurs, try each spark plug wire until a no spark condition or a weak orange color spark is found. If all sparks are good, the problem is probably not in the ignition system. Check for fuel system problems, or fouled spark plugs.

If no spark occurs, check for the presence of normal battery voltage at the battery (BAT) terminal in the distributor cap. The ignition switch must be in the ON position for this test. Either a voltmeter or a test light may be used for this test. Connect the test light wire to ground and the probe end to the BAT terminal at the distributor. If the light comes on, you have voltage to the distributor. If the light fails to come on, this indicates an open circuit in the ignition primary wiring leading to the distributor. In this case, you will have to check wiring continuity back to the ignition switch using a test light. If there is battery voltage at the BAT terminal, but no spark at the plugs, then the problem lies within the distributor assembly. Go on to the distributor components test section.


If the engine runs, but runs roughly or cuts out, make sure the plug wires are in good shape first. There should be no obvious cracks or breaks. You can check the plug wires with an ohmmeter, but do not pierce the wires with a probe.
If the plug wires are OK, remove the cap assembly and check for moisture, cracks, chips, carbon tracks, or any other high voltage leaks or failures. Replace the cap if any defects are found. Make sure the timer wheel rotates when the engine is cranked. If everything is all right so far, go on to the distributor components test section.
DISTRIBUTOR COMPONENTS TESTINGSee Figures 2 and 3
If the trouble has been narrowed down to the units within the distributor, the following tests can help pinpoint the defective component. An ohmmeter with both high and low ranges should be used. These tests are made with the cap assembly removed and the battery wire disconnected. If a tachometer is connected to the TACH terminal, disconnect it before making these tests.

1. Connect an ohmmeter between the TACH and BAT terminals in the distributor cap. The primary coil resistance should be 0&omega or nearly 0&omega . If not replace the coil.
2. To check the coil secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the rotor button and the BAT terminal. Note the reading. Connect the ohmmeter between the rotor button and the TACH terminal. Note the reading. The resistance in both cases should be between 6,000 and 30,000&omega. Be sure to test between the rotor button and both the BAT and TACH terminals.
3. Replace the coil only if the readings in Step 1 and Step 2 are infinite resistance or out of specification.

Fig. Fig. 2: Checking coil resistance. Ohmmeter 1 shows primary test. Ohmmeter 2 shows secondary test.
These resistance checks will not disclose shorted coil windings. This condition can only be detected with scope analysis or a suitably designed coil tester. If these instruments are unavailable, replace the coil with a known good coil as a final coil test.

1. To test the pick-up coil, first disconnect the white and green module leads. Set the ohmmeter on the high scale and connect it between a ground and either the white or green lead. Any resistance measurement less than infinite requires replacement of the pick-up coil.
2. Pick-up coil continuity is tested by connecting the ohmmeter (on low range) between the white and green leads. Normal resistance is between 650 and 850&omega, or 500 and 1,500&omega on 1977 and later models. Move the vacuum advance arm while performing this test (early models). This will detect any break in coil continuity. Such a condition can cause intermittent misfiring. Replace the pick-up coil if the reading is outside the specified limits.
3. If no defects have been found at this time, and you still have a problem, then the module will have to be checked. If you do not have access to a module tester, the only possible alternative is a substitution test. If the module fails the substitution test, replace it.

Fig. Fig. 3: Pick-up coil testing

the negative terminal of the battery SHOULD NOT BE connected in the ignition coil. the negative terminal of the ignition coil is connected to the condenser in your distributor.

1. make sure that your spark plug is working. try using other sparkplugs to check.
2. check if your high tension wires are working
3. if numbers 1 and 2 are ok, then just replace your iginition coil.

2 grey 2 green and 2 purles are speaker outputs. one of each color should have a black line. thats usually the speaker negative. blue is remote power out to connect to remote power to amp. red is 12 volt power(+). black is power ground (-) yellow is switched power from fuse block.

There are several possibilities.
Based on the year (2002) and low miles (19,000) it probably has the original Plugs, Wires and Coil. Rubber insulation on Wires does dry rot over a period of time. Spark Plugs should be changed about every 3 to 4 years regardless of miles. Wires should be replaced every other Spark Plug change. Translated you should be on you 3rd set of Spark Plugs and 2nd set of wires.
When working in the engine compartment and with the electrical system remember: ther is 40,000 to 75,000 volts present. Bad Wires could mean an electrical shock!
You can cheaply purchase Ignition (Spark Plug/Wire/Coil) Test Kits at most auto parts stores or even at Harbor Freight.
1) Remove the #2 Wire connection to the #2 Coil position.
2) Insert the tester into the #2 Coil position. Clipping the other end onto the engine block or onto a good ground.
3) Start the Engine.
4) You will be looking for a good strong (blue) and rhythmic spark. If it is not strong (yellow or orange) nor rhythmic, the Coil is malfunctioning and should be replaced.
5) If it is a good rhythmic spark, Turn OFF the Engine.
6) Disconnect the Tester and reconnect the #2 Wire to the #2 Coil position.
7) Disconnect the #2 Wire from the #2 Spark Plug.
8) Connect the Tester into the end of the #2 Wire. Clipping the other end to the engine block or a good ground.
9) Start the Engine.
10) Again you are looking for a strong (blue) and rhythmic spark. If is not strong (yellow or orage) and rhythmic, the Wire is bad and should be replaced. Wires should always be changed as a Set is the standard rule.
11) If it is a good rhythmic spark, Turn OFF the Engine.
12) Remove the #2 Spark Plug out of the engine.
13) Check the Igntion end of the Plug for carbon, dirt, or being fouled. Check the Gap.
14) Insert the #2 Spark Plug back into the #2 Wire.
15) Using the Spark Plug Tester. Connect the Tester to the #2 and clip the other end to the engine block or a good ground.
16) Start the Engine.
17) Once again you should be checking for a strong (blue) and rhythmic spark. If it is not strong (yellow or orange) nor rhythmic, the Spark Plug could be malfunctioning.
18) Clean the #2 Spark Plug.
19) Regap the #2 Spark Plug.
20) Retest the Spark Plug.
21) If there is now a strong (blue) and rhythmic spark, then the #2 Spark Plug is now good.
22) If there is not a strong (yellow or orange) nor rhythmic spark the #2 Spark Plug is malfunctioning and needs to be replaced. Again the standard rule is to replace the Spark Plugs as a set.

The several other possibilities relate to sensors. However without additional error codes or the check engine light on, we will assume that the problem can be solved with the solution above.

Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!

2003 Chevrolet Malibu 3.1L SFI OHV 6cyl
Spark Plug Wires - Removal & Installation

3.5L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
   NOTE Twist the spark plug boot one-half turn in order to release the boot. Pull on the spark plug boot only. Do not pull on the spark plug wire or the wire could be damaged.
2. Remove the intake manifold cover, if required.
3. Disconnect the left side spark plug wires from the spark plugs.
4. Disconnect the left side spark plug wires from the ignition coil.
5. Remove the spark plug wire clips from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor bracket and the heater inlet and outlet pipe tab.
6. Remove the spark plug wire assembly.
7. If replacing only one plug wire, open the retaining clips and remove the appropriate spark plug wire.
8. Disconnect the right side spark plug wires from the spark plugs.
9. Disconnect the right side spark plugs from the ignition coils.
10. Remove the spark plug wire assembly.
11. If replacing only one plug wire, open the retaining clip and remove the appropriate spark plug wire.

To install:

1. Install the spark plug wire assembly.
2. Connect the right side spark plugs to the ignition coils.
3. Connect the right side spark plug wires to the spark plugs.
4. If replacing only one plug wire, open the retaining clip and install the appropriate spark plug wire.
5. Install the spark plug wire assembly.
6. Connect the left side spark plug wires to the spark plugs.
7. Connect the left side spark plug wires to the ignition coil.
8. Install the spark plug wire clips to the MAP sensor bracket and the heater inlet and outlet pipe tab.
9. If replacing only one plug wire, open the retaining clips and install the appropriate spark plug wire.
10. Install the intake manifold cover, if required.

Fig. 2.2L Engine Firing Order: 1-3-4-2 Distributorless ignition system



Fig. 3.1L Engine Firing order: 1-2-3-4-5-6 Distributorless ignition system



Fig. 3.5L Engine Firing order: 1-2-3-4-5-6 Distributorless ignition system



Fig. 2.4L Engine Firing order: 1-3-4-2 Distributorless ignition system



Fig. 3.1L Engine Firing order: 1-2-3-4-5-6 Distributorless ignition system



Fig. 2.2L Engine Firing Order: 1-3-4-2 Distributorless ignition system


Fig. 3.5L & 3.9L Engines Firing order: 1-2-3-4-5-6 Distributorless ignition system


I really hope help you with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.

Same car same problem, but I found the plug w/two wires behind the glove box. It is on a brace on the left hand side, has a clip holding it there. Lift up on the clip and it slides off.
I jumpered those two wires, the door locks did not cycle as was in the instructions and remote still doesn't work.
Sounds to me like I'm missing power from somewhere, but where?
Hope you find your wires and they work for you.

You will need a voltmeter. Normally red is power, black i ground, yellow is memory power. the best way to know for sure is to use a voltmeter to test what each wire is recieving in power and when. If the key is off then the wire that has 12volts dc is for memory and the main power wire should be at 0volts dc. When the key is on that wire should have power now. the ground will be black on that car. Good luck.