Takes an hour or more to start on mornings

there is no pilot- it is lit with a ignitor. If you have problems the unit needs a service cleaning of the flame sensor rods.

It is all automatic, when you press start the power is sent to the gas assembly (if the timer is set for heat). The power originates from the cord to the timer to the temp control (on the blower housing) to the fuse next to the control, and to the gas assembly. The solenoids ignitor and flame sensor are all energized at once. The solenoids cannot release the gas unless the ignitor drops out of the circuit. That is the job of the flame sensor. Once the sensors bi-metal bends and opens the circuit, no more power goes to the ignitor< hoever, once the ignitor is glowing it generats a signal and becomes a thermogenerator with holds open the solenoid (holding coil) If for some reason the gas did not ignite the glow coil will cool off and shut down the solenoid. So what can go wrong? Lint buildup in the blower housing cause the fuse to melt. No power can be sent to the gas assembly. The flame sensor is open and not allowing power to the ignitor, the ignitor is open and not glowing. Old timey dryers had a pilot light. You hold down on the red lever and light the flame. Then release the lever and the pilot stays lit. I doubt if yours has a standing pilot. How modern gas dryer work:



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Hi, your thermocouple is faulty, it is the little probe like thingy that sticks up into the pilot flame. It is there for safety purposes, detects flame and holds a valve open magnetically to allow the gas to pass through. Try giving it a clean with a scourer, sometimes works, or your pilot flame is not big enough, could be low on gas or unit needs a service Kristian KJ Tech

On standing pilot ovens the maker uses a safety device to kill the gas in case the pilot blows out. As long as the pilot is lit the gas safety magnet hold the gas flap open inside the safety valve.To save energy the pilot has 2 flames. The standby pilot keeps the cooper/nickel probe/sensor warm so the oven will light faster, the 2nd pilot is much larger, only appears when the oven control is turned on and this is what opens that valve. So when you turn the oven knob on the gas leaves the control and goes downtown to burner land. If that pilot is lit and that slow opening flap inside that valve is open, then the gas will enter the burner tube and ignite when it hits the pilot. Pretty slick ain't it? So what can go wrong? With age the flap inside the safety valve will wear out, get weak, work a little, then take forever to light and eventually just goes bye bye. When you get ready to replace the valve it ain't gonna be adjusted exactamundo, you gotta tweak it. To do so after bubble testing for leaks and lighting the pilot you turn it on and observe the flames. It needs to be not more than half way up the flame spreader. If it is to small of a flame it will take forever to bake even a pie shell, if it is too much their could be burned bottom and in some cases fire hazards. OOPs.

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Your easiest (cheapest) starting point is with the thermistor (flame sensor).
You can easily check that it is in direct contact with the pilot... and at the same time - check the ignitor is sparking

1. Check for ignition - if not igniting - replace ignitor.
2. Check/clean Flame sensor - if pilot is lit - replace the sensor.
3. If voltage at the gas valve checks out (from flame sensor) - gas valve should be replaced.


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IF its balance flue it could be blocked . Burner or orifice blocked lack of air to pilot slightly blocked thermocouple defective .

If you have standing pilots, make sure the pilot for the oven/broiler is lit as well.  When you turn the thermostat up to call for heat, you should see the pilot get larger. That larger pilot flame heats a hydraulic sensor and opens the main burner valve.  

temp. sensor isnt working you would have to call in a repairman

sounds like the sensing bar on the spark ignition is dirty.....a wire brush works nicely.

propane heater uses a hot surface ignitor. this operates off 120 volts and glows red/orange when actuated. it stays lit throughout the heater on operation.  on the backplate of the combustion chamber is a high limit with two wires coming off it.  these two wires connect to the spade connectors on the flame detector cappillary.  Once you establish a fire, the flame detector generates a 750 millivolt signal which is applied to the pilot/main valve assembly.  My diagram will show this.