Gen runs when switch in auto even though power avail. Tried resetting ATS - waited 30 min. No luck. Only way to turn off is to move switch to stop/reset. Any ideas on what is broken?

I have the same problem. Turned off power several times and for up to for 30 mins at a time. Carried out the child lock procedure each time to set or reset. It beeps in response but safe lock will not clear. Tried turning the knobs before or after resetting as well but nothing seems to work. Got an apple crumble waiting to go in my AEG BPE556220B :(

My son looked at it and I wasn’t pressing the time button together with the C for temperature button, so all sorted now. In case you struggle, the icons in the centre of the top panel are digital. So just press the time and temperature together for a couple of seconds. It will bleep and release

Tele-Zoom switch seems defective in your camera. Please contact nearest Panasonic service center for part replacement / proper repair.
Regards,

It is possibly a transfer switch issue, not the generator control board. Have an electrican kill utility power, let it start and run, then disconnect the sensing wires in the ATS. If it stops problem is ATS

Disconnect generator remote start wires in the ATS. Put an ohm meter across the remote start terminals in the ATS and kill utility power, you should here a click in the ATS and the ohm meter should indicate close to zero ohms. If it does then your ATS is fine and the problem is gen control board or wiring between the two. If it does not show that value, then the start relay in the ATS is suspect.

try to find the manual , these units have a pre program set from the factory, dissconect the unit at the generator 1)battery terminal 2)main switch on generator 3) reconnect battery and turn on the switch,press auto,should reset

these particular tvs are very sensitive to voltage changes spikes etc.first turn off main power switch wait at least 30 sec if standby come on wait another 30 then turn off main power again and unplug tv for 1 min then plug in turn on main switch wait 30 sec then turn on tv with remote resets system.then buy a ups and always wait at least 30 min after turning tv off to turn back on if not causes power failure and after each press of power button wait 30 seconds before trying again lmk good luck

Hello

Here is something you can try, all credit Ben k:

(1) have your printer power down ie. off, just to make sure pull the plug out and wait 10 seconds.

(2) plug printer back in, now Hold down the Stop/Reset button don't let go.
(2a) push and hold the on/off button

----at this point both fingers are holding down the buttons.----

(3) take your finger of Stop/Reset, pause maybe a second now press stop/reset button once and then press again and hold.

--- both fingers at this point are hold down both buttons----

(4) take your finger off on/off and now finally take your finger off stop reset.

---wait for the printer to go into its service mode ie. wait maybe 30 secs a min whatever till the printer carage has moved back into ints original spot.

---after this has occoured you should be able to press Stop/reset to cycle though the options

each time you press Stop/Reset Alarm and on/off should alternate lighting up. Hope this helps.

0 time Green Power off
1 time Orange Service pattern print (auto teste)
2 times Green EEPROM print (dados da EEPROM)
3 times Orange EEPROM reset (EEPROM reset)
4 times Green Waste ink counter reset (Absorvente reset)

Hope this helps good luck

disconnect power from wall and wait 30 min,and try again

This could be part of the normal behavior of the ATS. Many ATS are set up to allow the switch mechanism to sit in the "neutral" position for a time delay (as much as a minute) so that things like large motors, pumps, etc to wind down so that they don't get powered up at full speed. Here is how I would troubleshoot your ATS:

1) With the Commercial power on and the ATS in Normal, start the generator and make sure that the power at the Emergency terminals of the ATS is the correct voltage and frequency, if this is a 3 phase system also make sure that the phasing matches the commercial power side.

2) Turn the generator off, make sure it's in off not auto. Turn the commercial power off. Then manually operate the ATS transfer mechanism (there is usually a little handle for this), check continuity of the poles of the transfer mechanism to make sure that it's really making and breaking contacts where it's supposed to. While you're doing this you need to check the limit switches at both sides of the transfer mechanism, These switches are how the ATS controller "knows" what state the mechanism is in, they sometimes get out of mechanical adjustment and on rare occasions break and have to be replaced.

3) Once you've satisfied yourself that the transfer mechanism is operating correctly, set it to the Normal position and turn the commercial power on. Switch the generator into Auto so that the system is in it's Automatic mode. Find the manual for the ATS if possible and locate and record all of the adjustable time delays, I often write down the time values we want inside the door of the ATS.

4) With your stopwatch or sweep second hand wristwatch at the ready, start the Test function of the ATS and time out the various operating states as the system goes thru them. In general your ATS should do something like this:

a) You hit the test function, the system simulates a Commercial outage and begins a transfer sequence. On many systems there is an adjustable time that the Commercial power has to remain off for anything to happen, this is Time Delay Start.

b) The ATS closes the contact that tells the generator to start. Then it waits until it sees correct power at the Emergency terminals of the transfer mechanism. When correct Emergency power is available, the ATS controller fires the transfer mechanism to put it into its neutral position. After an adjustable time delay (Time Delay Neutral), the controller fires the mechanism again to put it into Emergency position. Some mechanisms aren't designed to do this "stopping in the middle" feature and so there is only the one action by the controller to get from Commercial to Emergency position, it's also worth noting that on mechanisms that can stay in the neutral position the delay could be 0 so the switch will transition as fast as it can.

c) The system is now suppling the load from the generator. Some ATS require you to interact with the test at this point to get back to the Automatic mode, read the fine manual. In any case there will be a delay from the time the ATS detects correct power at the Normal terminals until it starts the sequence to get back to Auto, this delay is called Time Delay Emergency to Normal. You want this time to be just long enough to keep from making false transfers, but not so long that you waste fuel, most places are something like 15 - 30 minutes.

d) If there was a delay in the neutral position going to Emergency, there ought to be one coming back to Normal. Keep in mind that this delay isn't about the source of power, it's about the load.

e) Once the switch is in the Normal position, the ATS should keep the generator running for a time (Time Delay Cooldown), to allow the prime mover (engine) to return to a safe to shut down condition. On small air cooled engines this can be 0, on very large diesel engines it can be as much as 30 minutes.

f) The system is back in Automatic mode waiting for a power fail.

5) If the ATS can perform a transfer test as above correctly, it should be able to operate just the same way during a real outage. One can and should be able to demonstrate this by operating a disconnect (switch, breaker, etc) at the Commercial power side of the ATS.

If your ATS doesn't pass the transfer test as above, look for (in order of probability)
Incorrect power from the generator.
Broken or missadjusted limit switches in the transfer mechanism.
A mechanically broken transfer mechanism.
A bad controller in the ATS.

Regards,
Carl

Don't be mis-led by the working display. I had the "no power" problem with a working display too. I measured the voltage of the two AA batteries. One was 1.33 volts and the other was only 0.76 volts. Replaced the weak AA and everything worked. I suspect the 'enable' circuitry fails around/below 2.1v.