Wiring oven programmer timer has extra connector

Oxygen sensors monitor the exhaust stream, comparing the oxygen content in it to the oxygen content of ambient air. When oxygen content is low, sensor voltage is high. When oxygen content is high, sensor voltage is low. The voltage created by the sensor is sent to the DME (engine control module) to help maintain a proper fuel mixture. The mixture preparation is used to keep the catalytic converters running at peak efficiency. The oxygen sensors used in E60 models covered in this article has four wires. Two of which are for oxygen sensor heating and two for the signal. The heater is used to get the sensor online faster. Previously, exhaust heat was used. One wire supplied a ground to the sensor for the signal, and the other was for the sensor signal.
Oxygen sensors should be replaced every 100,000 miles. In a perfect world that would be it. Wait until a specified mileage and replace the sensor. However, these sensors fail prematurely, set oxygen sensor fault codes and reduce fuel economy. In this article, I will show you how to identify the location of all four oxygen sensors and how to replace them. You will need an oxygen sensor socket to remove the sensors and remember to always work with a cool exhaust. Oxygen sensors are fragile. Do not drop, as damage may occur. Also, keep the sensor tip clean when reinstalling.
Oxygen sensors are laid out in banks, which refer to cylinders and in sensor numbers referring to before or after the catalytic converter. Bank1 or B1 refers to cylinders 1-3. Bank 2 or B2 refers to cylinders 4-6. Sensor 1 or S1 refers to the sensor before the catalytic converter. Sensor 2 or S2 refers to the sensor after the catalytic converter.
Remember that your car may have been serviced before and parts replaced with different size fasteners used in the replacement. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.
Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle. If working with the electrical system, disconnect the battery before beginning. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste. Recycle parts, packaging and fluids when possible. Never work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability.
Our vehicle may vary slightly from yours as models do change and evolve as they grow older. If something seems different, let us know and share your info to help other users. Do you have questions or want to add to the article? Leave a comment below. When leaving a comment, please leave your vehicle information.
Figure 1 Bank 1 Sensor 1 is indicated by a yellow arrow. Bank 2 Sensor 1 is pointed out with a green arrow. Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 has a green arrow. Bank 2 Sensor 2 is shown with a yellow arrow. Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 3 Replacing sensors before catalytic converter: Oxygen sensors are located in the exhaust manifold. Remove the engine covers. See our tech article on engine covers removing. Locate the oxygen sensor electrical connectors at the right side of the engine above the exhaust manifold. Label or mark the wiring harness to aide during reinstallation. I suggest replacing one sensor at a time so you do not mix up connectors. Using an oxygen sensor socket, loosen the oxygen sensor connection to the exhaust manifold. Do not unscrew yet. Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 4 Replacing sensors before catalytic converter: Pull the wiring harness out of the mounts (green arrows) along the valve cover. Bank 1 sensor 1 shown, bank 2 sensor 1 is similar. Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 5 Replacing sensors before catalytic converter: Next, disconnect the electrical connector of the oxygen sensor you are replacing (yellow arrow). First, remove the electrical connector from the mounting bracket (green arrow) by pulling straight up. Once out, disconnect the electrical connector by pressing the release tab and pulling it apart. Note the wiring harness color and the factory sensors color code sensors to help when replacing. Locate the color of the sensor you loosened. Using an oxygen sensor socket, remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust manifold. Lightly coat the new oxygen sensor thread with anti-seize compound. Install the new oxygen sensor and tighten to 50Nm (37 ft-lb). Then reroute the wiring harness and connect the electrical connector. Repeat if replacing both sensors. Then reassemble the engine covers and clear any engine fault codes using a BMW scan tool. Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 6 Replacing sensors after catalytic converter: Oxygen sensors are located in the exhaust, behind the catalytic converters. Working below the transmission, remove the transmission splash shield. See our tech article on lower splash shield replacing. Using an oxygen sensor socket, remove the oxygen sensor connection to the exhaust manifold. When reinstalling the sensor, do not allow the harness to remain twisted (green arrow). Be sure it is properly routed and tension free. Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 7 Replacing sensors after catalytic converter: Next, disconnect the electrical connector of the oxygen sensor you are replacing. First, remove the electrical connector from the mounting bracket (green arrow) by pulling it straight out toward the left side of the engine. Once out, disconnect the electrical connector by pressing the release and pulling it apart (inset). Note the wiring harness color, factory sensors color code sensors to help when replacing. Locate the color of the sensor you loosened. Using an oxygen sensor socket, remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust manifold. Lightly coat the new oxygen sensor thread with anti-seize compound. Install the new oxygen sensor and tighten it to 50Nm (37 ft-lb). Large Image ' Extra-Large Image
Figure 8 Then reroute the wiring harness and connect the electrical connector. Repeat if replacing both sensors. Then reassemble the engine covers and clear any engine fault codes using a BMW scan tool.

Timer is not identified.
Add a comment and describe timer, and say if timer has wires, then describe color of wires on timer.
If you have box type timer, then add comment with model number that appears on door.

1) There are two types of in-wall timers: battery-operated timers and electric-powered timers are wired differently.
Open following link for typical single-pole electric-power timer wiring.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Programmable.html#wire

2) There are two more variations on in-wall timers.
Battery-operated timers can be used to replace single-pole and 3-way switches.
Open following link to see timers that work for 3-way.
The wiring is more complicated for 3-way timers since each model wires differently
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#15071

Woods 59208 is single-pole timer.

Open following link to see list of timers used for 3-way application:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Woods-timers-and-manuals.html#59028

When replacing 3-way switch, some timers can replace either switch. For example Aube and GE.
Other timers can only replace switch that receives power from breaker. For example Intermatic.

The timer replaces only 1 of the 3-way switches.
The other 3-way switch remains.
But in all cases, the remaining 3-way switch has to be rewired to accommodate the timer.
3-way timers cannot replace 3-way switch wire-for-wire.
3-way timers mimic 3-way operation. When 2 of the timer wires are connected, the timer reverses programming. When those two wires are disconnected, the timer programming resumes. So off becomes on, and on becomes off.
The remaining 3-way switch has to be rewired so that switch connects and disconnects the two timer wires that mimic 3-way operation.

You need to take the timer out of the circuit (you will only be able to run the oven without timer).
1. Switch off the mains or disconnect the oven from mains.
2. Pull out the 5 buttons of timer. Might need to apply a bit of force but they should come out fairly easily.
3. Pull the two temperature adjustment knobs out.
4. The glass decorative plate is attached with some sort of clamps so if you pull it off the oven it should come off as well.
5. Take out the 3 screws on top of the oven above the wireing. You should be able to bend the metal panel up a bit.
6. Take out the 3 screws that secure the side panel by the front panel. You should bend the panel out here as well.
7. Now you should be able to see inside behind the timer unit. There are two clamps on each side of timer that keep it in place. From behind they can be pressed in so the timer can be pulled out towards the front.
8. Once done take a look at the wires that go into the timer unit. There are four: A, B, C, D. Disconnect all but make sure you mark them which is which.
9. You will not need wire A and B so put insulating tape on the metal connectors and let them hanging loose. The are the power source of the timer.
10. Cut the connectors off of wire C and D, and solder them together. Then put insulating tape over the bare soldered wire. The timer is now cut out of the circuit and can only be switched on/off by the temperature adjusting knob.
11. Tuck the wires back into the appliance making sure they are loose and well placed, possibly far from the oven side.
12. Lock the timer back in place if you want. It is going to be a dead weight doing nothing so it is not necessary to put it back.
12. Assemble the coverings in reverse order as described above.

You should be a working oven now with the annoying bit removed and being better off a few hundred quid.

Project is not clear.
Are you replacing the timer with a switch?
I have complete files on timers, so if you are replacing the old timer with a new timer, then add a comment and say which timer you are installing.
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html

You have 3 cables. Assuming 120Volts.
Each cable has 1 black and 1 white and 1 ground.
White wires are twisted together and pushed to back of box.
Ground wires are twisted together and pushed to back of box.
Black wires are next:

(A) Cable A:
One of the three cables will have a black wire that connects to both the switch and to the timer.
So look for the black wire that connects to both switch and to timer.
This is the hot wire from breaker box. Connect this black wire to both switches including new switch.

(B) Cable B: One cable goes to garage lights. Black wire going to garage lights connects to on-off switch.
So the garage light switch has 2 black wires: 1 black wire from cable A, and 1 black wire from cable B going to light.

(C) Cable C: One cable goes to outdoor lights. Black wire going to outdoor lights connects to new on-off switch.
So the outdoor light switch has 2 black wires: 1 black wire from cable A, and 1 black wire from cable B going to light.

Woods timers:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Woods-timers-and-manuals.html
Scroll down page to make sure your timer is shown.
You posted under Woods 59018-59028

GE 15086 timer has OFF-Timer switch
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/GE-15086-programmable.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/Programmable.html#Aube
Add a comment to identify timer, and I can help more

Double-check wiring:
1) Timer-green-wire connects to bare ground wire.
2) Switch has 2 wires. Take switch wires and connect them to timer-black-wire and timer-red-wire. Choose either one for now.
3) In back of electric box are white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut. Connect timer-white to these wires.
4) If electric box does not have white wires described above, then connect timer-white to bare ground.
5) Turn on electricity, and push ON-OFF button. If lights come on, timer is wired correctly. If lights do not come on, then reverse timer-red and timer-black wires.

Open following link to identify timers that work with 3-way.
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#15071

If you have ST01C timer and are connecting to three-way, then open following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html#ST01C

ALL timers that work with 3-way switching will replace 1 of the two 3-way switches.
The remaining 3-way switch wiring must be altered so the timer works.
The reason is this:
The 3-way timer has extra wire, and when electricity flows to that wire, it reverses program status of timer, so ON becomes OFF for example, or OFF becomes ON..
The remaining 3-way switch is wired so it will send power back to the extra timer wire that reverses the timer program.
So the remaining 3-way switch performs a different function when 3-way timer is installed.

Grand Cherokee oxygen sensor locations for 4.0 and 4.7 engines







Four wires (circuits) are used on each O2 sensor:

• 12–volt feed circuit for the sensor heating element
• Ground circuit for the heater element
• Low-noise sensor return circuit to the PCM
• Input circuit from the sensor back to the PCM to detect sensor operation

O2S Sensor removal Never apply any type of grease to the oxygen sensor electrical connector, or attempt any soldering of the sensor wiring harness.
WARNING: THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD, EXHAUST PIPES AND CATALYTIC CONVERTER(S) BECOME VERY HOT DURING ENGINE OPERATION. ALLOW ENGINE TO COOL BEFORE REMOVING OXYGEN SENSOR.
1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Disconnect O2S pigtail harness from main wiring harness.
3. If equipped, disconnect sensor wire harness mounting clips from engine or body.
CAUTION: When disconnecting sensor electrical connector, do not pull directly on wire going into sensor.
4. Remove O2S sensor with an oxygen sensor removal and installation tool.

02S Sensor installation
Threads of new oxygen sensors are factory coated with anti-seize compound to aid in removal. DO NOT add any additional anti-seize compound to threads of a new oxygen sensor.
1. Install O2S sensor. Tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30 N·m) torque.
2. Connect O2S sensor wire connector to main wiring harness.
3. If equipped, connect sensor wire harness mounting clips to engine or body. When Equipped: The O2S pigtail harness must be clipped and/or bolted back to their original positions on engine or body to prevent mechanical damage to wiring.


Hope thats help (remember comment and rated this).

you have a link pin on 3-4 or 1-5 or seperate 2 pin connector,thats were the stat goes,any way round with wires