Today it died in the middle of a 2 minute cycle. I checked the food and it was hot, but the display stayed off for a few seconds and then came back up with the clock still set. I hit start and it immediately died and stayed out for a few seconds and then the display said, "check food, power failed while cooking." I went outside and flipped the fuse off and then on again, but that didn't fix anything anything. I hit start again and this time it died and the clock needed to be reset. I haven't pressed any buttons since then, and the display was off for about 10 minutes and just came back up with the "press clock" error message. I opened the door and the light came on, but the display went off until I shut the door and it came back on a few seconds later. Is this is a major problem or worth fixing? Model: JVM3670SK06, 5.5 years old.
SOURCE: GE spacemaker Microwave-Model # JVM1441WD003 no heat -clock ok
This
is usually caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch
mount, which are pretty simple problems to fix.
Even though a door
switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.
Door switch
or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening
the
door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are
plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and
onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these
mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be
activated properly.
Sometimes it's
a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just
out of position. This tab
can be hard to see, since it is under the
bottom edge of the switch.
If the mount is broken, it's usually more economical and
safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the
switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.
One test that sometimes
helps is to
gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to
start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount
or
door alignment issue.
If you or someone you
know decide to look
into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door
switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on
FixYa:.
You can find helpful
exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model
number here.
There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control
panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very
helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
At
our Web site, we have a video
available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
If you only need a
switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.
If you think the problem
is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail
for $39.95 postpaid in most cases in about a week or so.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
SOURCE: microwave won't heat
Sorry my Clarification Request came out as a single blob of a paragraph.
That's not how I typed it. I never write that way!
So I've pasted it here, but as a solution.
Magnetrons generally should last about 2000 hours, but several factors can shorten that.
If it's not OVER ten years old (from the purchase date or the date on the tag inside the unit) then the magnetron is still under warranty.
From the owner's manual:
"For the second through the tenth year from the date of original purchase
"The magnetron tube, if the magnetron tube fails due to a defect in
materials or workmanship. During this nine-year limited warranty, you
will be responsible for any labor or in-home service costs.
"For the above limited warranty: To avoid any trip charges, you must take the microwave oven to a
General Electric Customer Care® servicer and pick it up following service. In-home service is also
available, but you must pay for the service technician’s travel costs to your home."
GE Customer Service is here, and you can verify the warranty status and find your nearest authorized servicer.
If you're sure the magnetron's bad, it's still under warranty, and you or a friend are handy, they will
send you the magnetron to do it yourself. Call them at 888-239-6832.
Be persistent. You may have to speak with a supervisor.
It does sound like the magnetron overheated and the magnetron's thermostat opened until it cooled down.
An overheating magnetron can be due to:
Since yours is a counter top model, there are less of those factors to worry about.
When you hit Start to
microwave, do the inside light, cooling fan, and turntable all come on?
Any unusual noises? Is
it louder or quieter than usual?
We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are operating here.
You can find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts if needed by entering your full
model number from the tag on the oven here.
Let us know what you find out or decide.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: I have to hit the outside (top side of door)of our
This
is usually caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch
mount, which are pretty simple problems to fix.
There
should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit
behind the
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.
At
our Web site, we have a video
available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
You can find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full
model number from the tag on the oven here.
If a switch is all you
need, we offer a universal type for only $5 postpaid which you can
order here.
Even though a door
switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.
Door switch
or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening
the
door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are
plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and
onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these
mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be
activated properly.
Sometimes it's
a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just
out of position. This tab
can be hard to see, since it is under the
bottom edge of the switch.
If the switch mount is broken, it's usually more economical and
safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the
switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
499 views
Usually answered in minutes!
Now I'm even more confused. I realized it wasn't unplugged, so I unplugged it. On a whim, I plugged it back in to see if that helped. There was a delay of 3-4 seconds and then the display came on with the set clock message. I set the clock and opened the door and it died again, but then it came right back on with the set clock message after I shut the door. I opened the door again and the light and the display stayed on. I set the clock and opened the door, put a glass with an inch of water in and turned it on...and it worked fine. The water was hot when I removed it, so I know it heats. It seemed to just "die" when the start button, defrost button, a number was hit, or the door was opened. No idea what made it just start working again, but I know it will stop working again and needs to be fixed. I just wish I had a clue where to start.
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