Start OK but if after warm up I push the choke to run, the engine stops, I used 4 time before and idled OK

Yes, spring may have broken or maybe it just needs adjustment. There is a high idle cam that makes the card idle higher when the choke is closed or partly closed.

Hi Joe, I had asked for a little clarification and have not received any information. I will answer this question based on the generator is in good working order and it is a recoil start. Open the petcock, (this is the fuel valve) and give it about a minute to fill the fuel bowl on the carburetor. If your generator has an engine an on/off kill switch, set to on. If the generator has an auto idle switch set it to off. If the engine has a throttle lever located under the carburetor, push it all the way down (full throttle). Pull the choke knob out completely, there is a detent on the choke for half choke, pull it past this for full choke. pull the recoil starter rapidly. As soon as the engine starts running push the choke knob to half choke, this will allow the engine to run smooth while it's warming up. Depending on the climate that you are in, warm up time will vary. After a minute or two in cold climates start pushing the choke knob in, if it starts to run poorly pull it back out too the half position and let it warm up some more. When you can posh the choke in without the engine faltering it is ready to go. In warmer climates you might be able to start the engine without the choke or in the halfway position. Robin Subaru makes some of the finest small engines available. I would choose a Robin over a Honda every time. I hope this gets your generator going, and once again this is based on the generator being in good working order. Good luck, Michael Burke.

Start procedure is, push the primer as many times as it takes to 3/4 fill the bulb ( you cannot over prime it ) pull the blue choke lever fully out,place the saw on the ground with your right boot through the back handle, crank the engine until it fires once, do not continue to crank the engine with the choke out ( they will not run on choke, only fire ) push the choke fully home, crank the engine until it starts, blip the throttle trigger to bring the saw to idle, warm engine, pull the choke fully out and push in again without cranking engine, this will engage the part throttle, crank the engine until it starts, blip the throttle to bring the engine to idle.

Ok, Never use the enricher anymore than you have to. It's way to rich on every CV carb I've ever seen. It will foul your plugs. I start my bike with the enricher on but as soon as I can keep the bike running at a fast idle with the throttle tension screw on the bottom of the throttle grip, I set the screw to hold the idle at about 1500 RPM or so until the engine is completely warm on the top end. When the rocker boxes start to feel a bit warm, I'm ready.

Now, when Harley came out with the Twin Cam, I quit working on them. I work only on the older models, Evo powered and older. The reason is that Harley went to electronic engine control modules. This sounds a lot like what you've got.

To cure your idles problems, once you get your engine to full operating temp, set the idle speed using the throttle stop screw at the carb. Take the air cleaner outer cover off and you should be able to see the screw at the top front of the carb. Clockwise speeds the idle up. Now, the engine is not going to idle correctly until it is completely warmed up. That usually takes at least five miles of riding or so. Until then, you must keep the idle set with the throttle grip.

The alternative to this is a fuel injection system. And, you only think you have problems now. Read some of the problems those people have on this forum. I'll keep my '94 FXDWG.

Good Luck
steve

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2005-honda-motorcycle-vt750dca-shadow-spirit-carburetor-component-parts/o/m2904sch406961
Not to sure about this one, ok, if the choke wont stay out, then try to trace the choke cable to the carby, have a close look and see which parts move on the carby when you activate the choke, some thing just needs to be tightened up, so that the choke stays on. Also, you say the bike stalls and runs rough, is this with the choke on? If yes, then that is just a sign that you dont need so much choke on. Just try half choke. Do you live in a warm climate? if so, then you dont need much choke . So there is no adjustment really, only by the amount of choke you apply. Also remember, never use the choke if the engine is already warm. And, only use the choke for the first start of the day, when the engine is stone cold. The correct way to to start a cold bike engine is, pull the choke on fully, crank over engine, but DO NOT give it throttle, (this defeats the purpose of using the choke), when engine fires up and starts, slowly push the choke in till a smooth, high idle is acheived. You should be able to ride off slowly, and push the choke off after about a mile.

Check the fuel filter, muffler, and air cleaner for plugging. Check the condition of the fuel lines for hardness, splitting, end rot, or kinking. Make sure the carburetor fasteners are tight. If no help, remove the lower carburetor chamber cover and examine the diaphragm and fuel metering valve that it controls. The diaphragm should not be hard, cracked or have any holes. The fuel valve has a rubber tip that may have deteriorated. If looks ok, then turn both L and H jet needles CW to stops (lightly), then back out CCW 1-1/2 turns each. Engine should start and run with these basic settings. Allow the engine to warm up, then pull the throttle full on. Adjust H needle CW until the engine speeds up somewhat, but is 4-stroking. Correct adjustment is when the engine continues to 4-stroke, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Allow to idle, and adjust L CW until the engine runs fairly well, but will allow the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Set idle speed screw so that the chain stops moving, but the engine continues to run. Hope this helps!

Check the fuel filter and muffler for plugging. Check the fuel lines for condition. Check the carburetor fasteners for tightness. If the saw has a lot of hours, remove the lower section of the carburetor and check the condition of the diaphragm--it should not be hard/cracked. If everything seems to check out ok, Turn both jet screws CW to stops (lightly), then CCW each 1-1/2 turns. The engine should start and run--allow the engine to warm up. Pull the throttle full on and adjust H needle CW til the engine speeds up, but still 4-strokes. Proper adjustment is when the engine 4-strokes, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Let idle and adjust L CW so that the engine runs fairly well, but allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Adjust the idle speed screw so that the chain stops turning, but the engine continues to run. Hope this helps!

Hi
This sounds like a cold start system fault, which is a number of things.

1. Cold start temperature sensor not operating correctly so the cold start system won't work when the engine is cold.
2. The idle needs to be set to the correct RPM of the engine when warm, if it is idling ok when it is warm then this wont be the problem.
3. Spark Plugs are worn and need replacing.

Most case's its the cold start system not operating correctly and if you have a good workshop to take it too they should pick this up quite quickly. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on.

1) Have fuel tank full of a mixture of 50:1 gasoline and 2 cylce oil.

2) Have bar chain oil tank full.

3) Push down choke to full

4) Pull over engine 2 times.

5) Push choke off

6) Pull over engine. If it does not start you may have flooded engine ect.
Please let me know.

ok buddy on the carb will be some sort of screw and idle screw turn this in 1/4 of a turn with the machine running until it idles at 1000rpm also the choke will stall the engine when warm the choke is only for cold starts get back to me more info or problems