Chisel broken in chamber how to repair and get it out

Most cases a broken ring in front of the hammertube (lockingsleeve) WHERE THE IMPACT BOLD IS DRIVING THE CHISEL !!! IF THAT RING IS BROKEN ITS BLOCKING THE MOVEMENT .OR THE PISTON CAN BE BROKEN ?

Remove the covers on the steering column. You should see 2 bolts that appear to have been broken that hold the ignition cylinder to the steering shaft. Chisel these two bolts out by tapping counter clockwise with a hammer and cold chisel or good flat tipped screwdriver. These are breakaway bolts that are used to deter theft, but are not necessary for installation of the new cylinder.

Hi, is the stud broken with the wheel on? Or is it a lug that you cannot get off? 9 times out of 10 at my shop, we use a arm hammer and or air chisel to slowely (and carefully ) break away the stud. This is time consuming but efficient.

Sometimes it just needs some lubrication inside where the ball holds onto the bit. If that doesn't work, you need to replace the chuck pieces. Often times they come in a kit. The plastic sleeve may need to be cut or broken off.

you need to get that chisel out. If it was hammering with it before the end of the chisel might have broken and not coming into contact with the striker, if it did not then the end of the chisel might be damaged not allowing it to seat fully, either way get the chisel out and put in a regular bit and it will probably work.

Sorry no, the gear drive assembly comes complete with the motor drive. Broken gear is usually caused by something getting into the dose chamber. I've found may an object stuck in the chamber, Don't leave stuff on top of the machine. Don't use hard cleaning pills (check old coffee 'pucks' for unmelted pills) Gross overfilling of coffee will also break gear. Check for oversized coffee pucks (double dosed?)
ukeboy57

Do you mean with a load on it. or without? In other words, while the air hammer is pointed downward, if you put (example, the chisel tip) against a surface to be cut/hammered/etc., it doesn't work? Because, under normal circumstances, it won't work while pointed downward unless the chisel tip is actually against something. If it's doing that under load, though, have you checked the chisel you're using? If the shaft of the chisel is broken or marred, it may not be smoothly traveling the way it should. If it's okay, you likely have a broken piston inside.

Try to turn couted **** wise

this sounds like you have an injector leaking and is dripping raw fuel into the combustion chamber this would explain the miss and the white smoke.

Spray the nut with PB Blaster. Use a ball peen hammer to break away the remaining thin part of the hub then chisel a trough from the radius up near the nut to the bottom broken edge of the hub. keep repeating this process until the chisel breaks thru and when the trough is deep enough you'll be able to insert the chisel thru the though where it broke thru and pry sideways which will crack the hub into two halves. Tap the two halves out from under the hub nut and you will be happy to find wrench flats on the shaft just below the nut. Two 10 inch adjustable wrenches should work for you now. Set the wrenches so that they are squeezed together while turning the nut in the loosening direction. If you still don't have enough hand strength attach two 3 foot pieces of 2 X 4 to a door hing and position the wrenches between the open "V" created by the 2 X 4 clamp. Good luck!