At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Replace the bulbs where they stop working
sometimes when one bulb burns out it stops the circuit so by replacing the one burned next to the one working the rest might come on ... depends on the string
Clean everything very well, make sure spring is not hung in compressed position, you should be able to push button or head down and then pull on string and it should come out. Push again and it should pull out again, if not you will have to find reason why. The last time you changed string are you sure you wound it correctly?
LINE REPLACEMENT (Fig. 8) (For Reel EasyTM
Head)
Use 2.4mm monofilament string. Use original
manufacturer's replacement string for best performance.
n Stop the engine and disconnect the spark plug wire.
n Cut one piece of string approximately 7.6m in length.
n Rotate knob on string head until line on knob aligns
with arrows on top of string head.
n Insert one end of string into eyelet located on the
side of the string head and push until string comes
out through eyelet on the other side. Continue to
push string through the string head until the middle
section of the string is inside the string head and
string outside the string head is evenly divided on
each side.
n Rotate the knob counterclockwise on the string head
to wind the string. Wind the string until approximately
20cm remains protruding from the string head.
INSTALLING STRING IN PRO CUT II STRING
HEAD
Use monofilament string between 2.4 mm and 2.7 mm
diameter. Use original manufacturer's replacement string
for best performance.
n Stop the engine and disconnect the spark plug wire.
n Gather two of the pre-cut lengths of trimmer line provided
or cut two pieces of trimmer line, in 28 cm lengths.
n Insert the strings into the slots located on the sides of
the string head. String should be pushed in until
approximately 2 cm protrudes from the holes on the
top of the string head.
n Remove old string by pulling it from the holes located
on the top of the string head.
http://www.screwfix.com/sfd/i/cat/pdfs/89/p4763889.pdf
Do you hear the buzz when the notes are fretted and open strings?
If so the bridge has to come up. Thee are two screws, one each side of the brige. Screw clockwise on the G E side making sure to loosen the locking nut first.
For starters, if you don't have the original, in-the-box trimmer thread, you should get the appropriate diameter. Ez enough, you just need .9 to .10 diameter thread are somewhere around that diameter.
Which attachment are you trying to restring, there are several. One will have holes for a "fixed string" with a label that says "stop" on it. This is the fixed string attachment head. Take a piece of fix string, these are pieces of precut string that come with various other tidbits in the box, about 10-12 inches long. insert the string through the head the inserted end comes out the other side. Pull that end out to the edge of the "stop" label. Repeat the process for the metal hole on the other side. That's it, now you are ready to go.
The other trimmer head is a bit more difficult. Unscrew the top sleeve to expose the bare, 2 chambered core - have replacement or original thread ready to go (same diameter as mentioned previously). Once you have removed the top, notice that there are two holes with notches in between the 2 thread chambers. The notches will indicate which chamber you will be sending the thread that will be coming through the holes. Have the thread ready to go, and insert one end all the way through the hole on one side and then out the other. Now you must get the string ends coming out more-or-less equidistant from the two attachment holes so that you get an equal balance of thread being fed out of the head - either with helper holding the attachment head or by just hooking the attachment head around a pole or something, pull the 2 threads through to get them equidistant.
Once you've done this, follow the notches at the respective holes to wind the thread into the proper chamber, as if it were fishing line. Finally, put the head sleeve back
If it's like my Ryobi, the alignment arrows are for feeding in string, not removing the spool. When aligned with the arrows, you should be able to insert two pieces of line into opposite sides of the housing. The ends of the line will come out of the spool next to a tiny hole. Put the end of each of the two lines into the holes, then pull the two lines from the outside. This will lock the ends of the line into the tiny holes in the housing. Now you can turn the housing by hand to wind the lines onto the spool. I think it will take about ten feet of line (on each side).
Alternatively, spin the bump stop out of the assembly. This holds the spool in, so when the bump stop is removed, the spool comes right out.
Or sometimes you unscrew a retaining bolt set into a plastic "lug", the spool drops out, refill t with line, replace it putting line through holes in the spool casing, refit the "lug" and tighten it again. I think I have the manual for this though and if so maybe I can send you a link to images on MSN Homepage to help you..
×