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Okay so heres my current situation. 2 speed spa pump. Windings are good, bearings are good, capacitors all read within their allowable variance both start and run. I can find no reason this motor would draw too many amps......Say one. This motor is a 5 horsepower replacement GE motor stuck on a waterway pump. If the actual newtons of force required to turn the pump can not be supplied by the motor and the two are not a match then theres an overlap and the motor works too hard. If I had a way to up the voltage a little I could certainly drop the amps but I have no practical way to do that. Normally I would just run the motor until D day but i don't like the 14 amp draw on my pc board with a rated 12 amps. Any ideas? I have a hard time believing that a 5hp motor will not run the pump with 2 inlet and outlet on the matched frame size. Also wire sizes are all correct for the FLA and then some.
You indicated that the present motor is a replacement. Does it match exactly the motor characteristics of the original motor? What was the prior amperage draw for the original motor?
Since you spoke in terms of "newtons of force" instead of torque, I assume you are not in the United States. You didn't specify the supply voltage but if it's in Europe somewhere, it should be around 220-230 volts or so.
At 5 horsepower and 746 watts per horsepower, the apparent power draw of the motor should be around 3,730 watts (5 x 746).
Assuming the motor has a standard power factor of around .85, the power consumption should be close to 3,170 watts (3,730 x .85). That equates to about 13.78 amps (3730w / 230v x .85) which is close to what you stated.
What to do? If you are familiar with power schemes, you could consider the installation of a "buck-boost" transformer to the circuit and increase the supply voltage. These specialty transformers come with different voltage taps to adjust the voltage output. However, you must be careful not to raise the voltage substantially or you will cause the stator windings of the motor to overheat. There can be voltage fluctuations on the power grid which can cause variations in power output and consumption. A buck-boost transformer can help to alleviate this issue.
This will require some re-wiring. Your local jurisdiction may have codes or other requirements governing specialty wiring devices.
See the link below for a further discussion about buck boost transformers:
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Waterway Executive 56 Spa Pump, 5 HP, 230V
Waterway Executive 56 Frame spa pump wet end
assembled to a 56 frame, 5hp, 2-speed 230V spa motor
This Spa pump has a 2-1/2 inch intake and a 2 inch discharge for plumbing
(but measures 3-1/2 inch and 3 inch- see bottom of this page)Manufacturer Part No. 3722021-13 Other Part No. PF-50-2N22C Features:
Executive spa pump wet end designed specifically for 56-frame spa motors
Two double shielded ball bearings with moisture resistant grease for quieter operation and longer life
Two speed spa motors have four sets of insulated windings for increased efficiency
56 frame spa motor for added strength, cooler operating temperature and longer motor life
Large 2-1/2 inch intake for improved flow performance and reduced noise
Large 6-1/2" diameter wet end for higher head pressure
Split capacitor, (start and run) for less energy consumption
Thermally protected to extend life expectancy of hot tub motor
Highly versatile wet end can be rotated every 90 degrees
Viton seals
Three year manufacture's warranty on spa motor and spa pump wet end
Capacitor helps the motor to start spinning from a dead stop, so NO, it is not a capacitor problem.
Probably high speed windings. Means - New Motor needed.
Another possibility, is the controller could be sending power to "Both" sides of the windings: High speed & Low speed at the same time. But normally when this happens, you hear a loud buzz type of sound, motor will spin slowly - if at all.
Causes are bearings, debris, windings, or capacitor.
Cut the power and remove the rear end cap covering the motor shaft. Use a 9/16 wrench to turn the motor shaft back and forth. Sometimes this will unseize the bearings. If it gives a lot of resistance the bearings are shot or there is debris jamming the impeller.
The capacitor may have blown out. This is under the cover that sits on top of the motor. See if replacing works.
If all seems okay otherwise, your motor has lost (opened or shorted) some windings and needs to be replaced.
The start capacitor or start winding has gone bad. Or bearings are dry. Don't run motor if it does not rotate full speed or motor will overheat and go bad. Replace or repair motor.
Either you need a new start/run capacitor or the bearings have seized. If it's been running loudly recently, the bearings have probably seized. If not, the start capacitor is probably bad. This can sometimes happen when the motor windings start to develop a short. If you replace the capacitor and it blows again, you'll probably need a new motor.
check motor with hand after it stops for excessive heat. Thermo coupler shuts motor off if overheating, to protect windings. Bad motor bearing can cause overheating, if so should hear bearing noise when running.
Also check start capacitor, by removing and checking with ohm meter, or plug in oposite terminals of capacitor to charge. Place rubber glove on hand, and contact two oposite terminals with screwdriver should produce a small spark.
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