MYyork mts45sbad46/240 chillar compassor going to high ampere

How I would address it...

* Shut down the car and pull the keys.
* Disconnect a battery ground, and connect ampere meter in the break.
* See how much is "drain" on the battery.
* Start pulling fuses, one-by-one, and see, when "drain" stops.
* When you find, which fuse stops the drain, you start digging, what is on that circuit.

Alternatively you may keep battery connectors on, but when you pull the fuse, connect ampere meter to both terminals to see what is the power consumption on that particular circuit.

PS. Another thought... It could be not a "drain when car is off", but rather "incorrect charging" while car is on. For example, if alternator produces too high or too low charge voltage, it may "kill" the battery, and it cannot hold "normal drain".

Yes, it is called an inline fuse holder. You can get at Radio shack. Make sure to get the right size so the fuse fits. The ampere rating should also be at least as high as the fuse amps.

You provided way too little info for a sensible answer ut if you are trying to start a passenger vehicle, you need a battery that can supply the 100-120 amperes @ 9 or more volts while delivering that, it isn't likely that the battery you are using can do that.
You need to give us ALL the details if you want a valid answer such as:
- Vehicle type, small or big engine (makes a difference in starting surge).
- Battery rating Volts/Amps

The clicking you are hearing is only the solenoid being powered but not enough surge capacity in amperes.

Check the size of the cables coming to your headlight. A higher lamp wattage would require more amperes for the wires to carry.

The screaming sound is the blower motor bearing. the fan speed switch controls the grounding side of fan motor once on high it grounds the high speed fan relay. so lower speeds goes through blower motor resistor. this may be burnt out do to bearing is screaming tight to shaft creating a larger ampere draw that burnt it out.

Is cranking speed slow? Do a voltage drop test on battery cables.and a high output amp meter to test starter draw. normal ampere draw should be 250-350 amps cold and 300-375 amps hot as engine turns these readings should drop to 200-250 amps if not bad starter.

Measure the voltage while cranking. If the the voltage doesn't change much, then you have a poor connection, maybe due to corrotion or loose connection which is not always obvious. If the voltage drops signicantly as you are cranking, then you have a weak battery. To crank the car you need more than voltage. The twelve volts has to have enough CURRENT as well. Currents unit is expressed in AMPERE, or AMPS for short. VOLTAGE and AMPERE always go together to give you electrical power. If you want to know how much electrical power you have you just multiply Voltage by Current., and you get WATTAGE. Usually in automotive wattage is not used much since the voltage is always around 12 volts and therefor power is determined by just AMPERE. I HOPE THIS WILL SHED MORE LIGHT TO UNDERSTANDING WHY YOUR CAR WONT CRANK EVEN IF THERE WAS 12 VOLTS.

maybe your ampere fuse is too under or too high standart, check the fuse box if there written which fuse 10 A so use fuse with 10 ampere...
or
the cable where conecting with fuse

Hi,

Most car stereos/headunits uses a glass type fuse. the ampere rating would depend on the power of the stereo. Most would do with a 5~7 ampere fuses but several high end/ high power would require 10 or more.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FixYa.

If the brake lights are really on (?) this represents about a 4-5 ampere drain that would drag down most batteries in less than a day. (Could be over 100 ampere/hours.)
I don't know your car but brake lights can be controlled by a switch operated by the pedal suspension or a pressure switch that monitors hydraulic pressure in the braking circuit.

If your brake lights are on, the switch that controls them has failed or a relay that is operated by the switch.

If the car seems sluggish or pulls when driven, it could be a failure in the ABS circuit since that is a high-demand (normally intermittant) load.

The best way to locate the problem would be to monitor the current drain with a meter in series from the battery (engine off, monitor the ground side) and pull and replace fuses one-by-one to see which circuit is the culprit.