How to turn up a hem with no stitching showing on outside plz

That would be a blind stitch but be aware that even blind stitches may still show. To be absolutely sure the stitches don't show, you may want to consider hand stitching the hem in place.

How To Sew Blind Hem Stitch

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If you want it done entirely by machine you will need a special attachment. You'd have to check the make and model of your machine to find out if there is an attachment available from the maker. If not, there are some companies that make general attachments, and they'll list what machines these will fit. Check online sewing supply houses for this kind of thing.

You can also make one by hand. Any decent sewing book would tell you how. Usually you sew a straight stitch along the hem, using quite small stitches. Trim hem to a quarter inch from the stitch line. Crease the fabric or press it along the stitch line to the inside. Anchor your hand thread, then take a short stitch right along the stitch line. Next catch one thread of the fabric a quarter inch above the stitch line. It's just a basic running stitch, back and forth. Every few stitches, gently snug up the thread, which will roll the hem over. The finer the fabric, the smaller the stitches you take where they'll show should be.

There are some images that will help, if you enter the following search terms in google, you will see several pictures. Type the words," Illustrations for how to make a rolled hem by hand ? " and you will get a load of ideas.

It is not a special stitch, just a three thread overlocked seam with left needle but you do it with the blind hem foot and fold your fabric into a "z" shape, wrong side upwards and raw edge at the bottom to be trimmed by the blade as you seam. The folded edge is run against the "blade" of your blind hem foot to ensure even "bite" of the upper fold by the needle while the loopers form the seam around your raw edge below. Then when you finish and press the z fold open, you obviously want a little as possible of the needle stitch to show on the right side of the hemline. So you need to practice and adjust the position of the blind hem guide to ensure you are getting the needle to stitch just onto the folded edge.
I have only ever done it on knit fabric, as it does show and not very successful on a curved hem edge, straight edge is fine. You only want to catch a minimal amount of the fabric with the needle, lengthen the stitch length to 3 so there is less stitches per inch as it will show on the right side.

There is a tutorial here on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDJbFNZrCUI

You need a foot like this one so you can guide the folded edge of the fabric hem along against the white plastic foot. This is a generic style snap on blind hem foot, your machine should have one in the accessories that looks like this if your machine has a blind hem stitch included in its functions.

You fold the fabric into a upside down Z shape and run the top folded edge along the white guide with the fabric under the foot, hard to explain but once youve done it once, it makes sense.

You need to select the stitch on your machine that looks like 3 small zigzags, then one bigger one, or 3 straight stitches, then one zig zag to the side. This is the blind hemming stitch. You'll possibly also have a blind hemming foot to use, which helps with guiding the fabric fold into the machine and keeping it even. But if not, you should be able to buy one from your Huskqvarna dealer or a generic one from www.sewingpartsonline.com may well fit.

You'd be best served by visiting http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/machineblindsti.htm for photos and intructions if you've never done blind hem stitching before.

Blind hemming works best when hemming straight edges of fabric such as a ruffle on a full skirt - if there is any curve in the seam, it gets much harder and the result won't look so good. In essence, you press the fabric hem up, then fold the hem edge back under so you have a "S' shape, then sew along the single layer with the folded edge sitting against the foot guide. Then when the machine takes the 4th wide stitch, the needle swings to the left and catches a small stitch into the upper folded layer, then back onto the hem. The trick is adjusting the stitch so that the wide stitch doesn't show much on the right side of the garment

here is a link to great info on sewing.about.com which explains this technique with images, http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/machineblindsti.htm

In brief, you need to fold the fabric to be hemmed into a Z shape with the wrong side hem edge at the bottom of the Z.

The Blind stitch is either three straight stitches then a wide zig zag which swings to the left and catches a little bit of the folded edge, or three small zig zags, then one wide zig zag to the left to catch one stitch into the folded edge. The zig zag style has a little more stretch in it so works good on jerseys and knits.
You need to use the blind hemming foot which helps you to line up the folded edge and keep it at a constant distance from the needle. It will look like this.
Turn the little silver screw to move the white plastic guide left or right until you've got just a smidgen of fabric being stitched by the left wide stitch. Always do a practice sample first to get the stitching and guide set right. On most machines you can vary the width of the big zig by adjusting the stitch width dial a little.

You need to adjust the blind hemming foot guide so that the needle is just catching a tiny amount of your folded fabric because this is the stitch which shows on the right side of the fabric when you unfold the Z. So forget trying to hem satin or expensive fabrics this way, a hand sewn stitch will give a much better finish.

Blind hemming works best on a hem which is continuously straight on the same grain line, its not great for a curved hem. So if you've got a tiered skirt or the frill on a bed valance, it is fine as the fabric edge to be hemmed will be a continuous straight length. You can use it on a slightly curved hem for jerseys as the fabric has more give, and patterns will help to disguise the stitching too.

I hope that this helps you to sew your blind hem, 4 thumbs up if so.

Just trim the fabric to the desired hem length plus one inch, then overlock around this raw edge with thread close colour match to the fabric.

You then have the choice of either stitching around with a stretch stitch on your sewing machine, or hand sewing.

Being lycra shouldn't change how you hem them unless the trouser leg is extremely close fitting and the hem seam is going to be under tension.

My first choice would be using a twin needle in straight stitch from top side but this finish can pop/break if the hem is under tension. But perfect for most knit hems.

If you hand sew then you can turn up hem allowance and put a length of fusible hemming web inside the hem allowance and press it to hold. Then do a back stitch hand sew around to hold hem in place.

If you sew with the regular sewing machine, then use either the stretch stitch or a very small zig zag, and a ball point or stretch needle.

On ready to wear you would see a coverstitch hem but your overlocker doens't have this stitch.

blind hem foot is good if you want to machine stitch a hem but not have a seam showing. it will have an adjustable piece you can move left or right with a screw. but blind hemming works best on straight grain and not on a curve like a skirt hem unless its a knit fabric that gives. to make a blind hem press the hem allowance up then turn the main garment piece back to form a Z shape. you then stitch along the hem side with your blind hem foot guidr running along the top fold and use the blind hem stitch which looks like three little zigzags then one big zig far to the left onto your folded piece taking a little 'bite' - this stitch shows on the right side when you press the top of the Z back flat. so you need to adjust the foot position and how wide the needle swings to minimise this stitch showing. hope this makes sense and helps you with your sewing.

you want to use a blind stitch. Refer to your manual and it should give you details on how to set the machine for that stitch.

If you want to do blind hemming you need to find the stitch on your machine that looks like 3 small zigzags, then one bigger one, or 3 straight stitches, then one zig zag to the side. This is the blind hemming stitch. You'll possibly also have a blind hemming foot to use, which helps with guiding the fabric fold into the machine and keeping it even.

As the previous poster said, blind hemming is a little difficult to explain. You'd be best served by visiting http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/machineblindsti.htm for photos and intructions, getting a copy of a manual for your machine (if it doesn't have this stitch, then you're going to need to find another way) or getting a ibrary book out.

Blind hemming works best when hemming straight edges of fabric such as a ruffle on a full skirt - if there is any curve in the seam, it gets much harder and the result won't look so good. In essence, you press the fabric hem up, then fold the hem edge back under so you have a "S' shape, then sew along the single layer with the folded edge sitting against the foot guide. Then when the machine takes the 4th wide stitch, the needle swings to the left and catches a small stitch into the upper folded layer, then back onto the hem. The trick is adjusting the stitch so that the wide stitch doesn't show much on the right side of the garment.

Sorry, I don't understand just what you mean by "length to start". Length of what - stitch? hem turn-up?
Let us assume you are taking up a hem of a pair of pants. Try them on and put a pin where you want the hem to finish i.e. this will be the bottom of the pants. Take pants off, turn them inside out (careful that your pin does not fall out!) and fold the excess pants on that pin mark. The excess fabric should be on the outside, not tucked inside the leg tunnel. Measure how much it is from the existing hem to where you folded it over, let us say for the purposes of this exercise it is 4 inches. Your hem is to be 1 inch and you need 1/2 inch to turn under for a neat finish, total 1 1/2 inches, so you need to cut off 2 1/2 inches from the bottom of each pants leg. Fold 1/2inch at new leg bottom (wrong side of fabric to wrong side), press, fold 1 inch hem same way and press. Place pins every 2inches or so at a right angle to the hem edge. Pins should come out 1/4inch from edge of hem where the 1/2inch neatening fold was made (this is where I wish I could draw a picture!). Fold the hem back inside the leg tunnel. The pins should make the fabric fold under only enough so that 1/4inch of the hem sticks out beyond the pants leg. You will sew on this bit using the blind hem stitch (04 on my 7550). You might need to adjust the stitch width - not length - so that the straight part of the stitch goes along the hem bit and the zig-zag JUST bites into the pants leg fabric.
I do hope this lengthy explanation is of some use to you!