Actually, 4476 - how do you open clear cover to the water compartment without forcing it? - really tight

Water fill cover is not tight. Or seal is bad or missing.

you should have a controll or button on the iron that tells it to release the steam. make sure that the button or controll is not stuck.

Hi Beverly. The "dried stuff" is scale which occurs naturally in tap water. You should always use DISTILLED water - buy litre bottles (approx.$2.ea Home Brand) all supermarkets. Electricity off, empty out all the water in your iron. Half fill with distilled water, cover the filling hole, and shake water inside iron side to side, up and down, vigorously, empty distilled water out and watch carefully to see if water runs clear or has sediment coming out - may need to repeat this action. When water runs clear re-fill iron as normal with distilled water. Put iron on lowest STEAM setting, LIFT up iron but with soleplate facing down onto an old rag/towel (brown water may come out) press steam button on & off to try & clear the holes. Turn iron off, allow to cool. Thick cloth wipe soleplate over getting into the holes if they have not cleared. Triple wrap a wooden skewer in cloth soaked in white viegar or "scale remover" and circulate it around the blocked holes. Go very carefully do not scratch the coating on the soleplate or holes - very important. Let us all know how this goes please and if I have been of help, do hope so. Good luck, Chris

They are usually sealed (waterproof) units without access to batteries

Hi, Brown water and whitescale are often the result of the water you use in the iron... If you have scale, white vinegar will clean that... For brown water, empty the iron, rinse out the insides with bottled water, and then use the bottled water instead...

Also check out this tip...

Cleaninga Steam Iron White Scale and Brown Water

heatman101

I suspect that the discharge holes have become clogged by calcified deposites due to hard water. You need to de-calcify the iron. Mix one cup of white vinegar with one cup of water and pour this mixture in the iron and let it heat up. The acidic vinegar should dissolve the build up. repeat until clear. forthe final, use a little lemon in a cup of water to get rid of the vinegar smell. You can prevent this by using only distilled water in the iron, but this is not really practical, so a couple of clearing runs of the vinegar/water bath each month will put this off.

Hi,

Did you ever work out how to get the casing off??

I managed to drop my iron on a dodgy angle and some of the plastic casing has popped out and I don't want to force it back in when it clearly needs to be opened and put together again in the correct alignment.

If you know how to open it past the 3 screws, please tell....Thanks

you can download new instructions from the web. Remove the anticalc cover at the side and unscrew the metal nut, take care to ensure the little rubber seal is still inside the nut and not stuck to the opening. Plug one end of the hose into the iron ( it will fit without moving as it can only go in one way) connect the other end to the tap, turn on the tap and watch it flush out all the build up. leave it flushing for a few minutes then turn off the water. personally I then empty all the water from the base and then put the nut and cover back on fill up the tank and iron.

Hi, Rowenta recommends that you use clear filtered drinking or bottled water only. I believe them because the system uses brass & aluminum throughout, so salts or acids would cause corrosion. To clean the system totally, after each ironing session before I put it away, I remove the blue reservoir completely, and run the burst of steam several times until the boiler is empty, and red light indicates it is out of water. I shut the power off and unplug. Wait at least an hour or so, access the boiler tank plug on side & if it is cool to the touch, remove it using a coin (quarter), drain and flush the tank several times with the cleaning tube that came with unit or filtered/drinking bottled water several times over the kitchen sink. Finally, drain all the water completely out of the boiler (I leave the plug & cover off to making sure it is completely dry before putting everything back together, ready for the next time). After several use cycles of the above should clear out the debris. My 1st experience with a used DG980 had exactly the same problem. P.S. before ironing the first article, use several bursts of steam away from the ironing board surface to clear out any standing water that was is in the system. Hope this helps :O)

no, its not the Aquaspeed 170, but Aquaspeed 150. i succeded to unwrap the housing, but did fail in disconnecting or dismounting the power cord terminal.i could not disassemble the Iron to reach the heater. to dismantle, step 1 unscrew 3 visible screws. step 2 lift the heel cover away, by unsnapping 1 hooks at the right and one at the left side of the heel cover. i used thumnbnail to deform the heel cover for not to wear out the snap-in hooks. step 3 remove the dischalk stick (don't know the right wording in english) step 4 lift the top cover (which covers the spray jet part), 2 hooks at both left and right, use thumbnail or flat screwdriver, start at the top hook. step 5 take off the spray and steam buttons, 1 hook at the front side, 1 hook at the outer back side step 6 take off 2 screws: one keeps the upper half of the handle, the other fixes the water container at the heater plate. Attention: when unmounting the container, and turning the iron upside down, a small (4mm diam, ~10 mm length) silicone cylinder part will fall out, some kind of actor of a bimetal thermo switch in the ground plate, which probably controls water flow (not the electric thermostate) so far so good, i got my problem solved, but would like to know how to disassemble the container from the ground plate and how to replace the cable?