Searching for a replacement wheel. White plastic middle, black rubber wheel. Model R6221T. 34 steel wagon

Try this site for help

http://www.manualsonline.com/

Try this:
http://www.radioflyer.com/wagons.html?pid=4&cid=12

I have a Sole E 25 it worked fine for several years then the rollers kept coming off the t outside of the right track. I removed the track and the wheels and the tee shaped end with the brass bushings and switched them to the opposite side that never comes off. After switching the parts from side to side the right still came off the outside and the left stayed on. Since the different parts did not make any difference i knew buying new parts would not do any good. I saw that Sole made a replacement track for their single wheel machines that had a side on it to keep the roller from coming. They do not make a replacement for the double track so I make my own. I used a 1/2 thick by 2 ft. long by 4 in. high piece of white plastic I had laying around to use as a guide to keep the wheels on the track. I also used a 1/4 in. by 2ft. long by 1 5/8 wide piece of plywood to space it away so the rollers would clear the white plastic. I drilled 3 holes through the plastic and plywood them marked the black round steel tubes that support the aluminum tracks that the wheels ride on. Make sure and drill the steel a little smaller than the sheet metal screws so they will hold. I used 3- 1 1/4 sheet metal screws to anchor the plastic and plywood to the eliptical. I used plastic because it would be quieter and less friction than steel or plywood. I works great again.

How I do it

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Look in the section for the motor, pump gearcase and you'll see the Motor Coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Did you solve your problem. I have the exact wagon, and need to replace all four wheels aswell.

Any info is appriciated.

I have the same coffee maker which has a heater problem but the wiring is intact. The switches are wired like this:
Right Rear Warmer Switch: Top - White from other two switches
Middle: Black from other switches
Bottom: Red
Right Front Warmer Switch: Top: White shared with other two switches.
Middle: Black with connector to Black on other switches
Bottom: Blue
Lower Front Warmer Switch: Top: White from other switches and connector to white from inside.
Middle: Black and Purple together
Bottom: Black from inside and Purple from inside on a connector.

The fill location shold be right under the dash board. there will be a black rubber boot over the bottle.

you probably need to replace the diaphragm, unthread the nut directly beneath the wagon wheel, press the white tube downward and inspect the rubber diaphragm for damage or deformity. this is the most common problem with the Zodiac Pacer.

Have you checked with www.applianceart.com? They have faux stainless and real stainless options. PLus a ton of other choices there.