Sometimes it charges at 14 v and other times it charges at 8 v for a little while and then starts charging again. When not charging the exhaust pipes get red hot and it does run right.

1 - Radiator
2 - Thermostat housing
3 - Radiator bottom hose
4 - Viscous fan
5 - Water pump
6 - Radiator top hose
7 - Heater return hose
8 - Coolant supply hose
9 - By-pass hose
10 - Radiator bleed (purge) hose
11 - Bleed (purge) hose, thermostat housing
12 - 'Y' piece ejector
13 - Expansion tank
14 - Heater rail
15 - Heater unit
16 - Heater feed hose
17 - Intercooler
18 - Air cleaner
19 - Air feed hose
20 - Turbocharger
21 - Charge air supply hose
22 - Cooled charge air supply hose
23 - Exhaust manifold
24 - Engine oil cooler
25 - Feed pipe, engine oil cooler
26 - Return pipe, engine oil cooler
27 - Oil filter

This could be the guage in the dash. They are not that accurate. Get a dvm and check it.

Check to see if the exhaust is exiting the rear tailpipe. Could be a plugged up catalytic converter. Or some sort of obstruction in the exhaust system....

Has the alternator been replaced . alternators come with different amps . and if the jeep came with a low amp and is replaced with a high one would cause over charging.. also the ecu controls the charging

try removing the airbox on the side. Cup your hand over the inatke while cranking the motor. Do that for a couple of motor rotations. Once you've done that try restarting it without cupping the intake. Sometimes it takes a little extra suction to charge the engine with fuel or the carb isn't able to draw enough of an initial charge to start it. If that doesn't work hold your finger over the exhaust tip while cranking and release it while still ccranking it over. A couple of times doing that and she should fire up. If that doesn't work then I would check to make sure you are even getting gas to the float of the carb at all.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb

Hi,
Check the charger adaptor if it has any output power. If no power comes out replace the adaptor.
Check also the battery terminal, it might already corrode and needs clean up.
If all does not work, the battery in the helicopter is already malfunctioning.

hope that helps you out!

1 - Remove the turbocharger intake tube
2 - Disconnect the charge air cooler inlet pipe
3 - Remove the push pins on turbo cowl
4 - Disconnect the turbo VGT solenoid
5 - Remove the oil supply tube
6 - Using the special tool, remove the oil feed tube
7 - Remove clamp from the turbo down pipe
8 - Remove the clamp from the turbo inlet
9 - Loosen the exhaust inlet pipe-to-EGR cooler clamp
10 - Loosen the RH & LH exhaust inlet pipe-to-exhaust manifold nuts
11 - Remove the rear turbocharger mounting bolt
12 - Remove the front mounting bolts
13 - Position the turbocharger and remove the turbocharger drain tube
14 - Remove the turbocharger

If you cant do it with these instructions put down your wrench and take to a dealership for a professional to work on it

Item Part Number Description 1 52 Exhaust Inlet Pipe 2 N803420-S2 Exhaust Manifold-to-Inlet Pipe Bolts
(4 Req'd) 3 5E212 Three Way Catalytic Converter 4 5230 Muffler 5 N620482-S2 Exhaust Inlet Pipe-to-Converter Nut
(3 Req'd) 6 5B266 Exhaust Converter Inlet Pipe Gasket 7 N620481-S2 Nut 8 5E269 Exhaust Converter Frame Bracket 9 N620481-S2 Nut 10 5260 Exhaust Outlet Pipe Frame Bracket 11 5E269 Exhaust Converter Frame Bracket 12 39006 Screw and Washer 13 5E241 Exhaust Converter Outlet Gasket 14 5G215 Exhaust Pipe Flange Hold Down Spring 15 N802641-S2 Nut and Retainer 16 — Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) A — Tighten to 34-46 Nm
(25-34 Lb-Ft) B — Tighten to 20-25 Nm
(15-19 Lb-Ft) C — Tighten to 34-46 Nm
(25-34 Lb-Ft)

I can't see your exhaust system, but I do recommend that you have them show you the "why" of it. Generally the front pipe and the cat last a long time and generally don't need to be replaced very often. If the flanges are rusted and have failed there are "wrap around" replacements that can be used without pipe replacement. Most common is to change everything from the cat back. As I said, have them actually show you what is wrong...or take it to another shop and without telling them the original findings, have them look at it!!! Since there is very little involved except a visual inspection, most shops will not charge or will charge very little for this.

Perfectly normal.
Starting with the 2005 model year, light duty full size pickups and utilities are equipped with a new Regulated Voltage Control (RVC) system. This system reduces the targeted output of the generator to 12.6-13.1 volts when in "Fuel Economy Mode" to improve fuel economy. The generator may exit "Fuel Economy Mode" if additional voltage is required. This will cause the voltmeter to fluctuate between 12 and 14 volts as opposed to non-regulated systems that usually maintain a more consistent reading of 14 volts. This fluctuation with the RVC system is normal system operation and NO repairs should be attempted.