My black and red wires for my nds speaker circuit boards was severed. Can they still be used or do I need a new circuit board?

error code indicates that the electronic control board detects an open thermistor (temperature sensor). This is usually caused by a failed thermistor. It can also be caused by a wiring problem or a failed control board.

To troubleshoot this problem, follow these steps:

Unplug the dryer to completely disconnect electrical power. Shut off the gas supply.

Remove the bottom front service panel as shown in the first image below.

Locate the thermistor on the blower housing. The second image below shows the thermistor. It should have a red/white and a black wire attached to it. Pull at least one wire off and measure the resistance across the leads of the thermistor using a volt/ohm meter. You should measure about 10K ohms (10,000 ohms) of resistance at room temperature. If you measure infinite resistance or get much different reading, then the thermistor will need to be replaced. Even if the thermistor reads the correct resistance at room temperature, it could still be defective and giving a bad resistance reading at higher temperatures.

If you suspect that the thermistor is good, check the wiring connection at the main control board (black and red/black wires on the P2 connector). The procedure for accessing the control board is shown in the third image below. With the dryer still unplugged, pull the P2 connector (see diagram of board) and check the resistance through the black and red/white wires. NOTE: The wires down below at the thermistor must be properly attached back onto the thermistor to properly check this circuit. If you get a much higher resistance (or infinite resitance indicating an open circuit) when measuring this circuit from the wires at the control board, then you could have a wiring failure that is causing your problem. If the resistance is the same, I recommend replacing the thermistor and testing the dryer to see if it operates properly.

If you still get the error code after changing the thermistor, then the control board will need to be replaced.

By now you mave resolved your prob however.... yes you can order replacement PCB's.
The part # is 27.045
Before you just replace the "blown" pcb you should also check the motor; or, when you install the new pcb you will just blow the new pcb also.( if the motor is faulty.)
To check the motor you will need a multi meter.
There are 3 wires...black, red & blue wires. Using black as the common wire measure black to red..this should be approx 6 ohms, the same when you measure black to blue. Between blue and red you should get about 12 ohms. If you get a short on any of these readings then the motor will have to be replaced BEFORE YOU REPLACE THE PCB.
You don't say what country you are in..these readings and the part number are good for the USA &Canada.
The part # will be different if you have the 240 ss5 E/S model.( has a blue light on the panel.)
Hope this helps.

If your talking about the thump thump sound thru the sub when in standby mode, here's a fix if your good with a small soldering iron. Remove the amp from the sub. Locate U301 on the limit curcuit. (the small circuit card standing up right) Replace U301 with a TL074IN (www.alliedelec.com part #248-0012) .35cents +S/H also remove R263 from the preamp board,add a new 1N4148 diode(#935-0242) .05 cents to the pre amp board. Connect the Anode of the new diode to the Anode of D101 and the Cathode of the new diode to the Cathode of D108. Replace amp and test. Thump thump should be gone.

the green an yellow wire is a ground. Look for an area on the board with a ground symbol . Can you not match the location from the old board???
Either way the black and red are your positive and negative power, while the third is the ground. The wire probably are located in close proximity to each other.
Let me know if this helps
Jer

The red wire goes to the plus "+" teminal and the black goes to the negative "-" terminal. on the circuit board it should have the + and - marked.

check out this picture, it shows the 2 batteries wired up.

Notice that the batteries are flipped opposite of each other.
So from left to right its: bottom red, bottom black, top black, top red

http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=1092&page=2

Between the 2 batteries there is 1 red to black connection.
Then black to black-wire to circuit board
and red to red-wire to circuit board.

Doc,

I'm working on one of these chargers tonight. The white wire from the internal breaker is connected to terminal "PL" and the black wire to terminal "MS".

Hope this helps... Maybe you can fix my circuit board! Several fried components.

Jason

Actually, it's quite easy to replace:

i. Take off four screws at the back.
ii. Between the body and the front bezel, insert a utility knife. The bezel is fixed to the body with tabs. I started from the left hand side from front. The tab is in the center. Careful not to scratch the bezel or the body. Once one tab is open, you can slide the knife or whatever tool you're using to open the rest. Be careful not to scratch.
iii. Once the front bezel comes off, you'll see that the touchscreen is held to the bezel with the help of four tabs. take the touchscreen off.
iv. Next, take the ribbon cable off from behind the screen. You'll have to flip the flap holding the cable open.
v. The screen is held to the main board with the help of a tape. Don't take it off. Take off three smaller screws which fasten the circuit board to the back body.
vi. Take the antenna off. It's quite easy. It's the same connector that is used for Blue-tooth or wireless antenna on laptops. It'll just flip off.
vii. Next, take the board off from the back plastic body. The circuit board will still be held to the back by two connectors, one (two wire, smaller one) connecting the circuit board to the speaker, and another (larger one, four wires) connecting it to the battery. Both the battery and the speaker are for now fixed to the back plastic body.
viii. Once you've done that, the battery is exposed. Take the battery off (held by two tapes, and some double sided sticky tape to the back body).

The battery is 35mmx55mmx5mm. Buy any 3.7v battery from ebay. That'll cost you about $10, including shipping. The only problem is that on ebay, you might not be able to buy the same connector. Most of the batteries that you get from there also have protection circuitry to protect against overcharging etc. So you'll only have to replace the connectory. For this, take apart the battery from top. Just peel off the green tape. That will expost the connections. Solder them off, and replace the entire chord on the new battery.

Sorry, I'm too depressed right now on account of loosing my job :-) Otherwise, I'd have included pics too. But I guess if you're not afraid to do DIY projects, you should be able to change the battery yourself. Quite easy.

-pkrobot

Yellow - +12V Constant Power Red - +12V Switched (accessory) Power Blue - Power Antenna Blue/White - Amp Turn-on White - Left Front Positive Speaker Wire (LF+) White/Black - (LF-) Gray - Right Front Positive Speaker Wire (RF+) Gray/Black - (RF-) Green - Right Rear Positive Speaker Wire (RR+) Green/Black - (RR-) Purple - Left Rear Positive Speaker Wire (LR+) Purple/Black - (LR-)