How do I get the case open?

Undo two screws under the base which holds the entire top portion. The base and motor section should now separate. Remove the tilt lock from the tilt shaft, it needs to have two plastic tabs gently eased apart to slide off, there is one screw under here. There will now be three exposed philips screws on the underside with two more under plastic plugs nearer to the front of the mixer. Remove the two larger plugs to expose two more philips screws. These 5 screws hold the case together with a moulded clip at the front of the front of the mixer. ( Tip: a bead of hot glue on the plastic plug gives something to pull on with pliers, and not damage the plug)

Sand the area on bottom of piece along with areas surrounding the broken piece. Get another small piece of plastic that is large enough to cover the broken piece and adjacent areas and apply the glue to that using a good epoxy for adhesion. Let it set up and it will hold - trust me.

Soft plastic gears inside the machine from what I've read around the web, sorry but you'll need a complete new mixer.

I've had one apart to see just how fixable it might be, and it took me about 30 minutes to get the motor and gearbox into a position where they could be looked at. The gearbox had 2 stainless steel clips holding the top cover on and I didn't want to pry at those in case the cover snapped.

Not a lot gained from looking inside it sadly.

But!!!! there could be a break in the grounding wire inside the back of the mixer motor head, it is easy to check. face the rear of the mixer and look at the top you will see a small screw, remove it and gently lift the rear cover up and out muck more up than out (you could break off the mounting ears on the bottom of the rear cover) then look at the plug wires, white and black wires should be attached by clips to speed control switch the green grounding wire should be attached to the mixer frame with a screw, if it has come off then put it back on, the screw should have fallen out when the rear cover was taken off if the screw has come out, it may just be loose also so use a phillips head screw to tighten down. please let us know if this helped or you need more help there may be a more serious electrical problem that needs to be dealt with.

hi. 1. remove the screw near the cable. 2. use something sharp, small and robust to lever out the white screw cover which is underneath and in the middle. it looks like plastic moulding. 3. the screw head has a raised middle in the flat head groove. I put a medium flat head screwdriver in a vice and used a hack saw to remove some metal in the middle. it only took 15 minutes so don't be put off. unscrew. 4. lift off the cover. 5.use a toothbrush and the something pokey to clean.

There are two screws holding an access cover on the top front half of the mixer. These screws are normally plainly visible - has it been repainted heavily enough to hide the screws?

If you can't see the screws, all I can say is they are there, under the paint. Maybe shine a flashlight accross the top front half at an angle and look for a hint of a slotted screw head in the paint.
I'm not sure what the access cover is made of nor am I certain if the screws are stainless steel, but if the cover is aluminum and the screws aren't stainless steel, then a magnet should be able to locate the screws for you.
The screws a usually a domed-flathead screw, so some very close inspection of the paint surface may show a slight "bump" where the srews are.

On the underside you will find four small plastic plugs that are almost flush with the housing. There are philips screws underneath those plugs.

You have to unscrew screws at its bottom and strip away the plastic cover. Does it look like this from below?

http://bpics.rubylane.com/graphics/shops/starvingstudent/12.2L.jpg

To disassemble: Pull the rear cover off by prying on the bottom edge. It snaps in and hinges at the top. Remove the small oval cover on the front by prying, then remove the phillips screw. Remove the protective slider off the bottom. The 2 case halves then need to be separated by prying.

My daughter dropped it (again) and speeds 2 and 3 failed to work so I disassembled it and found a broken center terminal on the power transistor. I saw a fine crack so I soldered it. I also added much needed strain relief to the heat sink. It works fine now. This is a poor design. The power device has a heat sink attached and there is no strain relief so the transistor can move back and forth at least 3/8". For a tool that sees a lot of vibration and shock, this heat sink should be tie strapped or have hot melt glue to prevent movement. Gary