What do I do if the part that accepts the EZ set control has the top burnt up?

A new damper control...
https://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/maytag-refrigerator-mbf2254hew-repair/mbf2254hew-fridge-too-cold.html

and ck out prices at

repairclinic.com

partsselect.com

Try unplugging it for 5 minutes to reset the board.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720

Unplug it and see if it resets after you wait 5 minutes and plug it back in. If the outage was caused by a surge, it may have damaged the control board.

Press and hold the Control Lock key for three seconds
to activate or deactivate the function. The Control Lock
feature prevents the user from changing the temperature
and freeze settings. At the first press of any key, the
key press click tone will be heard and the display will
show "LO", but no other change will take place. Holding
the Control Lock key for three seconds will activate or
deactivate the Control Lock feature. After three seconds,
the accept tone sounds and the Control Lock LED (if so
equipped) is activated. In lockout mode, when any key
is pressed, the invalid key tone will be heard and "LO"
will be displayed for 1 second. When the lockout is
deactivated, the Control Lock LED is turned off and the
display shows "UL"

if this does not work unplug the freezer for 30seconds then plug it in. if all of the above fails replace the control.

There is a reset switch on the side of the metal control box beside the compressor, the horrible smell I guess is burnt insulation (acrid burnt smell). There are lots of possibilities for this,
1. Is the condenser clean, that's the grill that looks like a car radiator,
2. The condenser fan may be faulty, no fan noise when it starts
3. Electrical component burnt out, this depends on when the smell occurs.
4. Compressor leads, capacitors or relay.

Sorry but I think you are going to have to find your local ice machine guy to check this out.

You can reset the machine as above, but if the problem is critical you may do more damage than good

Best wishes

Gordon

Unscrew it from the socket. counter clockwise. remove it entirely. screw in new bulb, clockwise

My freezer was purchased in February, 2004. It is a self defrosting freezer but ice has started forming along the bottom shelf and back wall. Also, after cleaning the freezer the other day it has stopped clycing. The freezer will stop running only if I turn it down to the #1 setting and then it will not come back on. If I turn it up to a higher setting the compressor will not stop running. It ran for over 24 hours and would not cycle unless I turned it off or set it at the #1 setting. When I unplugged it and pulled it away from the wall, there was a green water spot the size of a dinner plate underneath the freezer. Help!! Very Unhappy this freezer is only 6 years old. S in Phila.

Hi,
As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning


http://www.fixya.com/support/r4588788-refrigerator_or_freezer_not_cooling_or

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor

heatman101

The relay and overload are normally attached directly onto the compressor (and are replaceable) but it is very unlikely that would be your problem. The most likely would be that during storage, a mouse chewed a wire. If you can not find evidence of that, use a meter on ohms setting, or even a continuity tester would do, to trace the electrical path from the plug to the temp control and on to the compressor. Also, from the other terminal of the plug to the compressor.

Had the same problem with my TA5FNFS once you have confirmed as there is power in the wall socket and the fuse in the plug and cable are ok, I found as the PCB control board had burnt out costs about £60 for a replacement board