Is the cam gear splined on the shaft or just pressed fit

autodata identifies all nissan 2.4 liter engines as interference fit
there are special requirements when fitting the belt so a workshop manual would be a big advantage to do the job right
replace all idler pulleys as the nearings will be at service life as well
if there is indication of oil stains in the covers , replace both cam shaft and crank shaft seals as oil is the major destroyer of cam belts

This is not easy....You will need air tools ,spray penetrate,seal remover,hammer,and Jack stands..Seal installation tool,.All proper tools..safety glasses.correct seal replacement.,new lock nut...Set park brake,block rear wheels,raise vehicle front and safely place jack stands under each side of lower control arms..Spray lube front drive shaft mounting hardware and lock nut that holds Yoke on front diff..Let it set to penetrate..put vehicle in neutral..Mark shaft to yoke location and direction perfectly because it has to be installed in perfect timing exactly how it was removed..,Remove drive shaft..Remove lock nut and yoke from front diff...You will have to hold yoke while removing lock nut because it will spin..PROTECT HANDS..( These can be VERY DIFFICULT to remove..Sometimes they have to be heated..You will need a yoke removal tool if it doesn't tap off with hammer...Mark exactly the yoke to spline location before removal..You can take close up photos however Mark it also to be sure...If you re-install it wrong it will vibrate terribly..Once yoke is removed You can remove seal.Make sure the new seal is correct...CAREFULLY..DO NOT DAMAGE SPLINES WHILE REMOVING..Sometimes even the perfect seal remover will damage splines..So cover it to protect spline threads..Clean all areas once seal is removed..Make sure nothing is pitted or damaged...Install new seal with installation tool..Lightly,perfectly tap it flush with diff..You can use old seal to install new seal if you don't have installation tool But only a pro should do that...Once in place Line drive shaft yoke with your marks and tap it on ..Use NEW LOCKNUT AND TORQUE IT TO SPEC..Install drive shaft as marked..torque to spec..Lower truck and check fluid..Complete..

Front or rear ?? It's quite easy, remove tail shaft, remove large nut on spline, pull spline out exposing the seal, pull old seal and fit new seal, replace spline and replace nut, only tighten where the old mark was, you will see it easy as identified by a dint in the nut edge, then replace the tail shaft, all should be good hope this helps.

Hi No Name, The most likely place of the leakage on your car is the front crankshaft oil seal. The oil pan (sump) is fitted with silicon from a tube as the gasket. It rarely leaks unless someone has broken the seal, which is difficult and usually needs a special tool for removal. To replace it you'll need to disconnect the battery, remove the PK (Serpentine) belt and the power steering pump belt and the front engine mounting (Front of the engine but fitted onto the side of the body) Next remove the crank shaft pulley, (a difficult part of the job, made easier if the starter motor is removed and a dog tooth tool is bolted into the most suitable starter motor attachment bolt holes, the dog tooth is used to lock the flywheel while removing the crankshaft bolt holding the pulley (which is torqued to 76 nm when re-fitting. Use a puller to remove the pulley from the crankshaft and then remove the ten mm bolts holding the two parts of the timing belt cover. Set the engine to T.D.C (Top Dead Center) and look for the match marks for re-timing the engine when refitting the timing belt. Once alignment has been achieved release the bolt holding the tensioner bearing and push it all the way open, releasing all tension from the timing belt and remove the timing belt. The oil seal can now be removed from its housing. Fit a replacement oil seal smearing a light coating of grease on the seal lip. Press evenly into place, making sure of an even flush fit. Replace the timing belt with a new belt, Re-align the belt so that the match marks align precisely to those on the gears by fitting and adjusting on the straight side of the belt. Once correctly fitted, gently release the tensioner bearing until it comes into full contact with the belt and hand tighten the fixing bolt and then loosen half one turn. Remove the dog tooth tool. Screw in the crankshaft pulley bolt and apply enough force to take up slack and tighten the tensioner. Remove the crankshaft bolt and then reassemble opposite to disassembly. Remember to refit the dog tooth for re-tightening the crankshaft bolt.

This sounds like the crank seal, the engine doesnt have to be removed, in order to get to seal is like replacing the ttiming belt, and once in the timing belt i would replace the crank and cam seals, also do the timing belt, and maybe the waterpump, you will need to remove the crank pulley and then the timing covers then align timing marks for timing belt before ou remove it, with timing belt off the crank pulley then slides off the crankshaft and the seal is behind it, the cam shaft gear unbolts and the seal is behind the gear, once the gears are off then you will be able to remove the seals from the engine,heres a few diagrams to help. good luck and i hope this is helpful,

Yes, there is a small seal that goes inbetween the mainshaft and the final drive gear. If I were doing this job, I'd also replace the seal on the backside of the inner primary as well.

To replace the small final drive gear seal, you will need a special tool to remove the inner race of the primary bearing from the main shaft. Of course, I've seen lots of times when this seal was not replaced while in there with no consequences.

Also, check the splines on the inside of the front belt pulley. These are bad about wearing. I have seen therm wear to the point that they strip out and no longer drive the motorcycles. If allowed to wear too much, they'll start a wear on the final drive gear as well. You do not want that to happen as it will require the replacement of the final drive gear to repair this damage. High Dollars. Good Luck

This is definitely not ajob for the beginner. The cams will need to be locked down with a special tool. If they move at all, your timing will be way out and you will have some serious trouble on your hands. Either take it to a dealer or a shop that works on Volvo. Most shops will turn down a timing belt job on a Volvo. When replacing the timing belt, you also need to replace the water pump, front crank seal, both cam seals, and im not 100% sure but I think the 940 has a balance shaft belt that will need to be replaced. I may be wrong about the balance shaft belt. The total cost of this job will be from 800.00 to 950.00 depending on the shop

there is a long bush type bearing in this tunnel just at the end were the seal fits in it can were out and let the prop shaft flap about, this in turn rips the seal to bits,,,also the yoke has a polished part on the end that go's over the spline into the end of the gear box tunnel the seal can were a groov into this part, and no amount of new seals will stop it leaking them as the new seal runs in this worn out groov, again ripping it to bits,,,test the long bush type bearing by holding the prop shaft yoke and pushing it up and to the side, if it moves about replace the bush in the end of the tunnel as well,, its a push in fit! with a big hammer!!
if the yoke has a groov in it you need a new prop as all prop shafts are balanced so you can just fit a new yoke it could throw the car up in the air when your driving it down the free way,,,,by shaking it apart
i hope this is of help to you

there is a special tool to hold gears in correct place on some of these models, but you can hold one cam at a time with a spanner then feed belt on exhaust cam then inlet cam gear
get someone to hold gears in place while you feed belt on.
the inlet cam is more prone to turn off mark more than exhaust.
if you have tensioner that needs retaining pin in when installing
you fit belt while aligning timming marks
fit tensioner as last spot to feed belt on with retaining pin in adjuster
get correct tension on belt by turning water pump so that you can flex (turn) belt 90 degrees only just while using finger and thumb
tighten water pump check flex
check all timing marks are correct
remove retaining pin from auto tensioner
turn motor over a couple of turns by hand observing tensioner arrow should hover around V mark and that all timing marks align up again(after one complete turn)