Injection hose to the soap container. Can I remove the hose and the part connects to the pump and replace it with a plug?

P0216 DTC - Injection Timing Control Circuit Malfunction and this means the diesel fuel injection pump has a timing failure. This could be that the injection pump timing needs adjusted OR the failure is internal to the injection pump and therefore non-adjustable.

NOTE: If your vehicle is a Dodge Ram with Cummins engine then be aware that fuel delivery problems frequently cause this code. Prolonged fuel delivery problems can cause injection pump failure!

Symptoms of a P0216 DTC may include:
Low power
Crank, but no start
Hard start
Displays an intermittent stumble or miss
Engine may start and then stall
Engine may appear to drive fine but surge at idle


The most frequent cause of this code is a bad injection pump due to poor fuel delivery. Fuel delivery problems could be:
A plugged diesel fuel filter
An in-tank blockage
Air in the fuel due to a cracked in-tank fuel ine above the fuel level
Bad transfer (lift) pump
Injection pump out of time


Possible Solutions: First, simply check if your injection pump timing is adjustable. If so, check the timing and adjust if necessary.

If you think that you may have a fuel delivery problem, then check the lift pump operation. On Dodge Ram with the Cummins engine, the lift pump should produce about 45 oz of diesel in 25 seconds of operation. This can be performed by disconnecting the fuel hose from the injection pump and pumping the fuel into an approved container. Bump the engine over but do not start it. Then the lift pump will operate for 25 seconds. If the fuel is aerated, then check/repair fuel line and recheck.

With the fuel hose connected the fuel pressure should be 10psi. If the fuel delivery tests fail, replace the diesel fuel filter and recheck.

If it still fails then verify there are no restrictions in the fuel tank

Then replace the lift (transfer) pump. IT SHOULD BE NOTED that if this code surfaced after a routine fuel filter replacement or if you have any of the above symptoms after routine fuel filter replacement, then suspect the fuel transfer pump. This occurs because even a weak transfer pump can still provide enough fuel for the engine to run. But when the fuel system\'s prime is lost due to fuel filter replacement, it may not restart again without fixing the fuel delivery problem.

If you found your injection pump to be bad, the lift pump should be checked for operation to protect the new injection pump. This is because weak or low output from lift pump are common cause of injection pump failure. There are some aftermarket kits that can be purchased to warn the operator when the fuel pressure/volume drops to level that could damage the injection pump.

Hope this helps (remember to rating this free answer and leave a testimonial comments).

Most pressure washers introduce soap into stream of water by the siphon method. In order for the system to siphon the pressure tip must be changed to one with large opening. Once the large tip is install, the fast moving low pressure water thru the hose and wand will draw-in soap. With the pressure tip installed soap will not be drawn-in. To spray soap and water under pressure use a large container (larger the better like clean 30 gallon trashcan) and fill with clean water and measure of liquid detergent. Use short water hose from with-in container and connect to pressure washer as normal. Keep checking water level so that washer will not run dry. Most pressue washers will **** water in quickly from container, however you can pre-fill the water hose with water to speed things up. Trailer mounted pressure washers use a very large container for water. You can estimate how log the pressure washer will take to use the water by checking the gallons per minute rating of your machine. Good luck

Electric Fuel Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION The electric fuel pump used on fuel injected Nova and Prizm cars is contained within the fuel tank. On 1988–92 models it cannot be removed without removing the tank from the car. NOTE: Before removing fuel system parts, clean them with a spray-type engine cleaner. Follow the instructions on the cleaner. Do not soak fuel system parts in liquid cleaning solvent. CAUTION
The fuel injection system is under pressure. Refer to the procedure above and release pressure slowly and contain spillage. Observe no smoking/no open flame precautions. Have a Class B-C (dry powder) fire extinguisher within arm's reach at all times. 1988–92

1. Release the fuel system pressure as outlined earlier.
2. Using a siphon or pump, drain the fuel from the tank and store it in a proper metal container with a tight cap.
3. Remove the rear seat cushion to gain access to the electrical wiring.
4. Disconnect the fuel pump and sending unit wiring at the connector.
5. Raise the vehicle and safely support it on jackstands.
6. Loosen the clamp and remove the filler neck and overflow pipe from the tank.
7. Remove the supply hose from the tank. Wrap a rag around the fitting to collect escaping fuel. Disconnect the breather hose from the tank, again using a rag to control spillage.
8. Cover or plug the end of each disconnected line to keep dirt out and fuel in.
9. Support the fuel tank with a floor jack or transmission jack. Use a broad piece of wood to distribute the load. Be careful not to deform the bottom of the tank.
10. Remove the fuel tank support strap bolts.
11. Swing the straps away from the tank and lower the jack. Balance the tank with your other hand or have a helper assist you. The tank is bulky and may have some fuel left in it. If its balance changes suddenly, the tank may fall.
12. Remove the fuel filler pipe extension, the breather pipe assembly and the sending unit assembly. Keep these items in a clean, protected area away from the car.
13. To remove the electric fuel pump:
    1. Disconnect the 2 pump-to-harness wires.
    2. Loosen the pump outlet hose clamp at the bracket pipe.
    3. Remove the pump from the bracket and the outlet hose from the bracket pipe.
    4. Separate the outlet hose and the filter from the pump.
14. While the tank is out and disassembled, inspect it for any signs of rust, leakage or metal damage. If any problem is found, replace the tank. Clean the inside of the tank with water and a light detergent and rinse the tank thoroughly several times.
15. Inspect all of the lines, hoses and fittings for any sign of corrosion, wear or damage to the surfaces. Check the pump outlet hose and the filter for restrictions. To install:
    
16. When reassembling, ALWAYS replace the sealing gaskets with new ones. Also replace any rubber parts showing any sign of deterioration.
17. Assemble the outlet hose and filter onto the pump; then attach the pump to the bracket.
18. Connect the outlet hose clamp to the bracket pipe and connect the pump wiring to the harness wire.
19. Install the fuel pump and bracket assembly onto the tank.
20. Install the sending unit assembly.
21. Connect the breather pipe assembly and the filler pipe extension. NOTE: Tighten the breather pipe screw to 17 inch lbs. and all other attaching screws to 30 inch lbs.
    
22. Place the fuel tank on the jack and elevate it into place within the car. Attach the straps and install the strap bolts, tightening them to 29 ft. lbs.
23. Connect the breather hose to the tank pipe, the return hose to the tank pipe and the supply hose to its tank pipe. tighten the supply hose fitting to 21 ft. lbs.
24. Connect the filler neck and overflow pipe to the tank. Make sure the clamps are properly seated and secure.
25. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
26. Connect the pump and sending unit electrical connectors to the harness.
27. Install the rear seat cushion.
28. Using a funnel, pour the fuel that was drained from its container into the fuel filler.
29. Install the fuel filler cap.
30. Start the engine and check carefully for any sign of leakage around the tank and lines. Fig. 1: Fuel tank components — 1988 VIN Code 5 engine (Nova)
    Fig. 2: Fuel tank components — 1989–92
    

Make sure before you begin you obtain new fuel injection clamps, the tank to pump seal and a small length of fuel injection hose. Also obtain a new filter sock at the bottom of the pump. You may want to ask at the parts counter what size it is; but you'll need a small length of hose regardless of condition. Take extreme care working in the vincinity of gasoline, do not smoke or work near pilot lights or hot work lamps, as you will be releasing vapor that could ignite.
The fuel pump system on these models consists of a pump in the tank. Try to make sure the tank is nearly empty. On sedan models, peel back the trunk lining after removing the left side drain hose for the drip panels. It is secured by a clamp. Remove the 4 10mm bolts which secure the inspection cover.
Remove the negative battery cable.
On wagon models, fold the rear seat back assembly back, lift it up and remove the cover and carpet. Remove the inspection plate.
Either model of this vintage has the pump and sender assembly secured by a large plastic collar. Take care when removing it as it will be very tight and if you need to hammer at it it is best to use a length of PVC pipe and a mallet so that it won't crack if you hit it too hard. Remove the fuel hoses, taking care to avoid spillage by using old shop cloths to catch any residual fuel. Disconnect the electrical connections. Note that the old hose clamps may be rusted solid; carefully cut them off (do not attempt to use a saw or other tool as sparking may result) or soak them in a rust-removing compound. Carefully lift the pump and sending unit up and out of the tank, rotating through 90 degrees on the way out. Plug the open unions of the hoses to prevent debris from getting in.

These models contain the pump by way of a clip. Press up against the bottom of the spring loaded sender to release the clip and remove the pump. Some models may have an accumulator/damper at the top of the pump, it can be bypassed by a section of fuel injection hose and two clamps. You may have to solder on the connectors, sometimes they differ from year to year. Make sure you have the correct polarity when reconnecting the pump, or else it will run backwards. Install the new filter sock by pressing it on the bottom of the pump.

Installation is essentially a reversal of removal, noting to install a new tank to pump seal: Place the seal on the tank first, then place the pump assembly into the seal, as it is quite difficult to fit otherwise. Install new clamps wherever an old clamp was removed. Check carefully for leaks before driving the vehicle, and then install the inspection cover, trunk lining and drain hose.

This is a pump that sits underneath your front bumper on the passenger side. It is about the size of a baseball and has two hoses going into it. I would suggest you replace it yourself as it would cost you about $360.00 if you were to go through the dealer.

Water intrusion is what will typically kill these electric pumps. There is a Technical service bulletin (#04-06-04-015) Regarding this problem, according to the tsb, you will need a new pump and there is a hose assy. #12590627) that has you reroute the pump from future water intrusion or it is guaranteed to fail again.

Although I have had water in the pump I did not see any indication of the inlet hose as the cause. It was suggested that the one way metal check valves ($15.00) that mount to the rt & lt exhaust manifold are worn and allow water from the exhaust to get sucked back into the pump. I first replaced the pump and within a week of dry weather driving the light came back on. I checked the pump and it was again full of water. I just replaced the valves which had deteriorated on the inside. So hopefully this will eliminate the problem. Note - The valves are impossible to remove without removing the 1/2 tubes (held on with 2 nuts) they are attached to the manifold with. The valve threads seize to the tube thread and had to be clamped in a vise to remove - I actually had to hacksaw the valve section to get it off the pipe. Careful as not to damage the threads.

Good luck and try autopartsdirect2you for a new pump and it has life time warranty.

TSB #04-06-04-015 - (Mar 22, 2004)

Condition
Some owners may comment on the check engine light being illuminated. Upon investigation, the technician may find a DTC P0410 indicating that there is a concern in the secondary air injection system.

Cause
Water may have collected in the AIR pump or the vent solenoid and frozen or corroded the pump.

Correction
Replace the AIR pump and install a new inlet hose and solenoid tube assembly using the following procedure:

Prep vehicle.
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove shield covering AIR pump.
Remove hose and vacuum lines from pump and solenoid.
Remove AIR pump inlet hose. Do not re-use.
Disconnect electrical connectors from pump and solenoid.
Remove pump mounting bolts and pump.
Transfer isolators from the old pump to the new pump.
Install new AIR pump and bolts to vehicle.

Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 17N·m (12.5 lb ft)

Route new hose assembly up between engine and fender. It should come up near the area between the battery and the coolant bottle.
Connect new inlet hose to pump inlet.
Connect old outlet hose to pump outlet.
Connect electrical connector to pump.
Connect electrical connector for solenoid to connector on the new hose assembly.
Connect the hose with the white nipple to the vacuum source hose.
Connect the remaining hose to the shut off valve.
Install shield covering AIR pump.
Lower vehicle.
Remove coolant reservoir nut nearest the battery.
Route new hose assembly between the battery and the coolant reservoir with the solenoid on top.
Install the solenoid bracket onto the coolant reservoir stud and reinstall the nut back into the vehicle.
Use a wire tie to keep the new hose assembly away from the engine. On four cylinder engines, tie to the AIR outlet hose. On six cylinder engines, tie to an available hole in the radiator fan shroud.

12590627 Hose Assembly - Secondary Air Injection

12568324 Pump, Secondary Air Injection for 2001 L35 + 2000-2003 L43/LN2

12560095 Pump, Secondary Air Injection for 1999-2000 L35

Hope that helps

First, keep everything as clean as possible. Contamination below 30 microns, which cannot be seen by humans, can destory a diesel fuel injection system. Clean everything off anything having to do with connections on the fuel system and cover any connections left open.

Begin by removing the intake manifold. This will remove the clips holding the injection lines passing underneath and around the intake runners. After removing the manifold, cover the openings in the cylinder head (I use wadded-up paper towels).

Next, remove the clips at the brackets on the injection lines closer to the injectors.

Loosen all of the injection connections at the injectors. Do not remove the lines.

You can remove the water crossover tube if it is in your way, but drain about a 1/2 gallon of coolant before your remove the crossover.

Remove the oil fill tube from the timing cover. Turn the engine clockwise, using a 15/16" socket and ratchet (or breaker bar) on the center bolt of the crankshaft. As you turn the engine over, a bolt will show up at the opening where the oil fill tube was removed. Remover the bolt and keep turning the engine over until you have removed all three bolts. Do NOT use the starter to turn the engine over and, after removing the third bolt, do NOT turn the crankshaft any more.

On top of the timing cover, behind the rounded top, is the place where the injection pump is bolted to the cover from the back side. Clean the top of the timing cover where it meets the injection pump and look for a thin line scribed into the cover and one on the injection pump. Note the position of the two lines (they are usually aligned) for reassembly.

Remove the throttle cable assembly from the injection pump. Remove all the wires from the pump and note which connection the big pink wire goes to. The other wires will be green. Remove the return hose at the top of the injection pump.

There are three nuts holding the injection pump to the timing cover and you will need a 15mm socket and/or wrench to remove them. When you do, the injection pump and injection lines can be removed as a unit. Note the position of the driveshaft of the injection pump to set the new one the same way. If you are not going to put things back together right away, cut up a plastic garbage bag and make covers for the injectors. Secure the covers with rubber bands or nylon cable ties to keep dirt out of the injectors.

Carefully transfer the injection lines to the new pump. It is possible to cross them up so pay close attention while moving the lines. Transfer the fuel inlet pipe to the new pump and whatever device is mounted on the passenger side of the old injection pump to the new pump.

Get a new injection pump to timing cover gasket and install it over the timing cover studs. Install the new injection pump after setting the driveshaft to match the holes in the gear inside the timing cover. The pump can only be installed one way since it is indexed to the gear. Reinstall the nuts on the studs and set the timing marks to the same position they were when you removed the old injection pump (the lines on top of the timing cover and the flange of the injection pump). Tighten the mounting nuts. Make sure that all the injection lines line up at their injectors, but do not tighten the connections at the injectors yet.

Put the first bolt back into the gear through the oil fill tube hole. Hand tighten it and then turn the crankshaft clockwise as before to install the remaining two bolts. Then, tighten all the bolts securely and resinstall the oil fill tube. Reinstall the throttle connections on the injection pump.

Install a new piece of 1/4" fuel line from the fuel filter to the injection pump (the old one is usuall brittle since it never gets changed). Remove the covers over the opening in the cylinders heads and reinstall the intake manifold using new gaskets.

Reinstall all the injection line clips that were removed and the coolant crossover tube (if you removed it and don't forget to add coolant to the radiator). Reconnect all the wiring on the injection pump, except for the big pink wire. Install a piece of clear tubing on the top of the injection pump and connect it to the return tee in front of it (where you removed the rubber hose from the old injection pump).

Now comes the fun part: Disconnect the glow plug relay connector (two small wires in a connector) from the middle of the relay. The relay is usually on the driver's fender and close to the battery.

Crank the engine, in short bursts, until you see fuel in the clear tubing on top of the injection pump. When you do, reconnect the big pink wire on the injection pump. Continue to crank the engine in short bursts (allowing the starter to rest between cranking cycles) until you see fuel dripping out of the injection lines at the injectors. When you do, tighten the connections where fuel is dripping. When all lines have been tightened, reconnect the glow plug relay connector. Remove the clear tubing on top of the injection pump and reinstall the fuel line that was removed from that location.

Then, try starting the engine normally. If it will not start, try some WD-40 down the intake. You can use ether, but you MUST disable the glow plugs be removing the connector at the relay.

The engine may run rough or stall at first but it should smooth out after all the remaining air comes out of the system.

Torque values are as follows:

Intake manifold: 25-37 ft-lbs
Gear bolts: 13-20 ft-lbs
Injection pump mounting nuts: 25-37 ft-lbs
Injection lines: 15-24 ft-lbs ("wrench tight" is fine)
Injection pump fuel inlet fitting: 15-20 ft-lbs

is the hose that goes to the bottom of the soap container plugged

Your fuel filter is mounted on the rear of intake manifold, under air cleaner or on rear firewall.
Just a little hint on replacing it, remove your fuel tank cap to release pressure or vacuum in the tank. I'm sending you a diagram the fuel filter assembly so it will make it a little simpler for you to replace your fuel filter. Start by removing the filter element nut. Remove filter element by lifting straight out of filter housing. It is not necessary to drain fuel from filter housing when changing the filter element.
Installation, ensure mating surface between filter element assembly and filter housing is clean. Install new filter element by aligning widest key slot located under element assembly cap with widest key in filter housing assembly.
Tighten element nut by hand. Bleed air from fuel manager/filter assembly. Connect a hose to air bleed valve and place other end of hose in a container.
Disconnect fuel injection pump shutoff solenoid wire. Crank engine for 10 to 15 seconds. Allow starter to cool down for one minute between cranking intervals. Repeat procedure until clear fuel is observed at the air bleed hose.
Close air bleed. Connect injection pump shutoff solenoid wire and reinstall fuel filler cap. Start engine and allow to idle for five minutes. Check fuel manager/filter for leaks.

I have a Bissell Model 1699 when I removed the pump to this unit to go buy a replacement I wrote discriptions of where the disconnected hoses went. Apparently my descriptions were poor. Now after switching the hoses all around I am not sure where they go. I cant get the thing the thing to go backt together because apparentely the hoses arent routed properly How can I find out where they are supposed to be connected and how they are routed.