Can't find the transfer switch, and could it go bad. Shore power and generator power works to the main panel box, but won't charge coach batteries

There is a relay that operates when you hook up to shore power that switches from battery power to converter power. It also charges the batteries. If you do not have battery power then suspect a faulty relay. It is located inside the power converter.

There are a couple of possible causes:

1. There is a Front/Rear Switch somewhere in the unit, usually in the main salon or near the breaker box. This is most common if your generator is not large enough to run 2 units at the same time. It is not always labeled as such, sometimes it's just 1 or 2 and in others it's a set of breakers.

2. You have dropped a leg from the generator output. Normally the generator has 2 outputs, each feeding a separate circuit. This could be in the generator, the transfer switch or the breaker box. If you have issues with other 110v circuits, this would be a place to start.

3.

If the unit has a transfer switch that switched between generator and shore power you need to look at that since nothing is working with the unit plugged into shore power. There may also bee a few battery disconnect switches close to the batteries. In that system there should also be a few inline circuit breakers. If they have tripped they will need to be reset. To determine if they have tripped you will need to look at the circuit breaker and see if there is a small black lever hanging down. If there is, slide it back up and it will lock back into place and should restore power. Without actually seeing the coach and the power configuration it is difficult to determine exactly the problem. Hope this helps.

Do you have good power that the outlet. I have seen many issues at RV parks of not having sustained power or one leg of the breaker going bad causing loss of power. If you do have good power coming into the surge protector but not out. Then go through the reset procedures for the surge protector. If it will not reset, then the surge protector has failed and will need to be replaced. If power is coming through then check the main breakers in the coach for possible failure. Breakers can trip but still look as if they are properly set. Turn them completely off then back on to reset.

If a normal install, the shore power and generator will go through a transfer switch then to the inverter. If when inverting 120 VAC circuits are OK, then the problem must be before the inverter. I would suspect that it is the transfer switch.

Disconnect shore power, make sure generator in NOT running then take a look at the transfer switch these are in a boat or RV but either can lead to vibration problems which can lead to loosening wire connections which can lead to heating and burning. It may be something as simple as a wire coming loose. (Which could be dangerous!)
Whether or not the contacts in the relays are OK, check and/or tighten all electrical connections. It's a good idea to check and tighten all electrical connections regularly.

Some transfer switches can be repaired by replacing just the relays. Other units (like mine this year!) will need to be replaced entirely.

Start generator, allow a few minutes to warm up.

If everything works as it should, you should now have AC power in the coach (look at microwave, air conditioner, etc). If not, then start checking the breakers.

If the breakers are on, then go to the generator compartment, open it, and check the breakers on the generator itself. If those are on, then your transfer switch has likely failed.

Some appliances don't like the power that is produced by a generator due to the unsteady nature of frequency (it starts high, and drops as loads are added). If the TV works on shore power, and not when generator is powering the coach (and other 120vac appliances work), this is probably what is going on.

STOP!!! Immediately have the shore power breakers checked by assuring both output legs have EQUAL output. If not they can either burn out the inverter solid states components or the main coach A/C, Generator transfer switch. You can usually check this with a multimeter but the shore power park managers usually have maintenance personnel to check and replace bad pedestal breakers. Does this help?

Your power converter is probably okay, since the lights are getting bright when generator runs (and probably when plugged into shore power). A coach that is as experienced as yours is probably going to have multiple wiring issues that have occurred over time. Corrosion on battery terminals is common, but so is not maintaining the batteries. Batteries are usually killed by not charging properly, discharging too deep, and not keeping them clean. The batteries can also be wore out, especially if they are more than a couple years old and spent a lot of time sitting in the back lot.

Start by looking at the cables located at the battery, as well as at the battery connection on the DC fuse block. Everything should be clean bright and shiny. If not, I would suggest loading a dremel tool with a brass brush, and clean all wires and connections individually. Make sure everything is turned off in the coach to minimize sparks. While you have the cables off, take a look at the date codes and check the water levels. Correct accordingly.

There is a possible problem that can be at the converter as well. When you supply power to the converter, a solenoid engages a switch that transfers power to the batteries, charging them. If this switch has failed, it will cause same symptoms since batteries are not being charged.

The chassis / starting battery may not be charged by the house charger at all, especially if there is a Emergency Start / E-Start / Boost button on the dash somewhere. The engine is able to charge the chassis battery and the house batteries through a big relay (looks like ford starter solenoid on coaches like yours).

If you drive down the road, and main battery doesn't charge, and house batteries don't charge, Look closely underneath your coach for a grounding problem as well as possible bad alternator. But, if your house batteries charge off the alternator, then your problem will likely lie in the switch on voltage converter. If chassis battery charges and house batteries don't, look for 30 amp fuse between house battery and relay on firewall of engine compartment.

Make sure you wear old clothing, wear eye protection, and gloves when around batteries, and also when using the dremel.

You should not have to switch between battery and generator, unless you are trying to use an inverter as well. Batteries are 12vdc, typically run lighting, water pump, furnace, fridge controls. Generator powers ac, microwave, television, and anything else that plugs into a 120vac wall outlet. Inverter may also run select loads, and possibly dedicated wall outlets, but not AC, fridge, or microwave (usually).

Most RVs / Motorhomes now have automatic transfer switches that will switch between the generator, shorepower, and possibly an inverter. Your coach is made during an era of transition from manual transfer switch (in form of heavy duty electrical outlet near shore power cord) and the automatic transfer switch.

There is no specific place where a transfer switch or generator receptacle are mounted on an RV. There are no rules or regulations tha cover this as far as I know. Your RV may also have an EMS (Energy Management System) that will control the transfer switch as well. EMS panels are typically located above the refrigerator or above driver / passenger seats in overhead compartment.