How do i replace the power cord in an rv that has been cut off

Water pipes in RV are Pex, which is not the same as PVC. Pex will freeze, but is designed to not burst when frozen. If you have located the broken pipe, it is simple to replace. Using a PVC cutter (looks like cheap shears) cut out the broken piece. Most likely the pipe size will be 1/2 inch. Pex comes in three different colors: white, red, and blue. Most likely the RV pipe will be white, but the color does not matter as the pipe is of the same material. Pex can be bought at stores like Home Depot, Lowes, or other hardware stores. The connector fittings can be bought at the same stores. The simplest to use fittings are the push-on self sealing fittings. There are cheaper fittings, but they take special tools to install them. The estimated cost of a 2 foot distance pipe repair is about $10 to $15. The time required depends on how difficult it is to "get to" the broken pipe.

Are you 100% sure that new ECO & Thermostat were installed properly, and all surfaces where they make contact on tank are clean? If all is correct there, the thermostat should first cut out the power, then the ECO should thermostat fail. be sure you didn't mix the 2 up when installing them. ECO has higher cut out temperature. Only other thing to consider is pressure in the system may be higher than normal.

Any 6 gal will fit in same cut-out (hole) . 12-5/8" H x 16-1/4" W x 17-5/8 deep. In order to move up to a 10 gal, you need to be able to cut hole a little bigger. 15-3/4" H x 16-1/4" W x 20-5/8" deep. Usually your depth will allow , and width is same, just a matter of whether you have room to make height bigger.

Check for a bad fuse in panel first, then with a 12 volt test light or multimeter, check for power in to switch, as well as out when in on position if it's easy to get to. If not, turn switch on and test for voltage at brown wire to thermostat terminal, that comes from inside at back of water heater from switch inside. If it has cut-out switch in plastic sleeve attached, be sure to check for power on both ends of that cut-out switch. If power only in but not out, replace it. As I said,that brown wire comes from switch, so if no power to it, check at switch. The other brown wire goes back to connector on ignition board. If power is there, turn switch off, take an eraser on end of a pencil and rub contacts on ignition board/module to clean them off, as well as spray electrical cleaner on contacts of connector to make sure you have a good connection. Check all ground connections as well, and if you have 12 volts at brown wire to connector on ignition board but still no spark, replace ignition board/module.

If you pull pressure relief valve open slightly (carefully ) and water shoots out, your good. The red light inside is not overtemp, it is to alert you to the fact that the heater did not ignite. If your sure you have by-pass in proper position on back of tank, try removing the cut-off that is inline by pressure relief valve. It is enclosed in that small clear plastic jacket and wire runs to thermostat. Pull at each end and remove it from the circuit, then put the male spade from wire directly on thermostat connector where the cut -out was attached, then try water heater. If it works, replace that cut out. Don't leave it off, it's a safety device that shuts off gas to water heater in case of flame up.

If you see a little short round (cut-out)diode-like piece inside a clear plastic sleeve that runs from wiring to thermostat terminal,(usually right under pressure relief valve) remove it from the thermostat terminal, as well as wiring from heater (take it right out of the circuit) and connect that wire directly to the spade connector where it was attached at thermostat, and now try it. They are a one shot cut-out, and if it went, no power gets to the system and by removing it, you will see if it's the problem or not. They are a safety device that if for some reason you get too large of a flame from water heater, and it feels the flame/heat, it blows and cuts off power. Should be replaced when you get a chance, but at least you'll know what the problem is. Let me know if that works please.

First try taking the safety cut-out (looks like a diode in a plastic sleeve) out of the circuit by disconnecting both ends, one from thermostat, and other incoming power wire end, then just connect the female incoming spade connector directly to terminal on thermostat where it came off. If that fixes it, replace the cut-out.( thing in the plastic sleeve) If that doesn't fix it, try cleaning electrode ends well and retry, if no luck, replace the electrode assy. The electrode is also the flame sensor.

Yes. If your using it in an RV, your converter can supply the needed 12 volts, if it's not already there.

Sounds like youo have a problematic gas valve. But I would get a gasfitter to replace it. Not for the amatuer.