The speaker info is telling you that a 400watt input is nominal or stable. and handle anything that can Peak up to 1200watt , the speaker can handle the 1200watt but not for long periods. Distortion will likely occur well before then anyway. On my home stereo, I have twin Marshalls which are 500 watt each going to JBL,s rated at 150 watt with 250 peak. The ratings are a bit different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Ive found the system is really powerful but there is very little to no distortion as the amp is not needed to be cranked up to get the volume I want. If you run an amp that is too big for the speakers, it will sound really loud for a while, then distortion happens then watch your speaker cones self destruct or the voice coils burn out. If you run an amp that is too small, you will need to turn it up more for the volume and then distortion sets in earlier, which is the biggest destroyer of any speaker.
SOURCE: Kenwood KAC-9152D monoblock
The amp says it's 1 ohm stable, so assuming the DVCs are dual 4 ohm, you should be able to connect all "+"'s together and all "-"s together, like the picture below:
As for the amp shutting off for a few seconds, it sounds like it's either:
A) Not getting enough power at high volume.
OR
B) Overheating.
The cap on the +12V to the amp should help, but putting a meter on the +12V might tell you whether it's dropping too low (<11V).
When you first turn the volume up, how long does it work fine before shutting off? Is it with the vehicle running or not?
SOURCE: amp getting really hot
If depends on what the amp is rated to run. If it is only rated to run 2 ohms x2ch then it can only run 4 ohms x1ch. If you run it at 1 or 2 ohms that is too low, too much current, and it will get hot and eventually blow up under hard use. Some quality amps can live that way, and it depends on the sub and what frequency you are running it at. For normal use I would not recommend it. Wire to sub at 4 ohms x1 (or 2 ohms x2ch) for that amp if that is what it is supposed to be at, I'm not sure from your description. Also enhance cooling of the amp if you can, I run fans on mine if they have a heat issue. Warm is one thing, hot is another and not good for amp.
SOURCE: 2006 12" Kicker L7 4 ohm
first whats the range in terms of WATTS that your 12" sub can handle in 4 OHMS ? second , lets check the AMP , POWER ACOUSTIK 1800 WATTS , Now thats a lot of power to drive a single 12" sub speaker . your amp is 1800 watts , per channel is around 500 watts , if BRIDGE thats around 1600 watts rms for ONE channel , if your sub can handle that kind of wattage fine , but it will not blow the amp , what it does is shuts down , some kind of protection mode , it will come back on after a minute or so. I suggest to use one channel in stereo mode , or purchase another sub to use the other channel. i hope this helps AJ
SOURCE: Output problem
dude TRUST me what you are using and have setup already is plenty..ONE TIP...of all things anyoine ever needs to worry about is the R...M....S power rating...the PEAK means NOTHING! its safe and fine to use what you got.
SOURCE: I have a lanzar opti drive plus 500 old school,i
The 40 amp fuse is too small. 1000 watts = 12 volts @ 83 AMPS. Bigger power wire my friend. If you want to sell, let me know.
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