Maytag DE810 Dryer takes too long to dry

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum 9 this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

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Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Hi.

More than limit switches if burner is turning on but heating is poor you should check cycling themostat and then blower motor, lint filter and parts comprised in blower assembly.

When the problem is the high limit, there is no heat at all.
When the problem is radiant sensor, there is no heat at all.

Poor heating means either: defective cycling thermostat; clogged air ducts; defective blower system, problem with timer or temperature selector.

If the heating turns off in the middle of the cycle check also door switch.

Here Cycling thermostat:




The cycling thermostat is located in the blower assembly. Here removal instructions. Disconnect power first:



The thermostat can be tested using a multimeter. Set the multimeter on impedance (Ohms). Good thermostat will read about Ohms at room and will read open (infinity) at 150F.

Once in there also check the thermal fuse and check blower assembly. Remove lint and make sure blower is working. Thermal fuse is tested reading impedance across its two contacts. Remove fuse from circuit and touch with multimeter probes fuse's contacts (same for thermostat). If fuse is good it will read zero Ohms or very little impedance. a bad fuse reads infinity.

Check also the exhaust. Make sure there is no blockage.

Operations are illustrated from page 72 of service manual: Here the service manual.




About the flame sensor, that is a part that rarely fails. If the dryer ignites the radiant sensor is not responsible for the fault.
The radiant sensor is mounted in parallel with the coil.



When temperature is reached the sensor opens up allowing power to burner valve (valve 2). Testing the flame sensor like a thermostat is difficult because it opens up at high temp. I read volts while operating. I suggest users carrying only maintenance that can be performed with power off.



If the burner shuts down at random more than the sensor check the door switch. Run a cycle with door switch contacts jumped.

Start checking cycling thermostat and air ducts, those are problems that usually cause low heating.

Regards.

Ginko

HI, Check the following to address this issue further.

Note: Normal drying time for a dryer is about 45 minutes (some may take up to an hour).

1. Venting
Make sure the dryer vent hose, as well as the rest of the vent duct, is not clogged.

Unless regular maintenance is performed, chances are there is a lot of lint accumulated inside the dryer. This might affect the drying time and could be a fire hazard. Make sure to have your dryer cleaned regularly. Because this might involve taking most of the dryer apart, it is recommended to have a qualified appliance repairman perform this task.

2. Thermostat
There are a couple of cycling thermostats inside the dryer. If one of them breaks down, it might affect the dryer's performance. Replace the defective thermostat. These thermostats are located in the dryer vent duct and sometimes mounted on the blower assembly as well.

• To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.

Possible causes depend on the dryer model and type. Electric dryers work diffeently from gas dryer.

Both electric and gas dryers usually have a thermal fuse located at the back of the appliance. Check if thermal fuse/switch is blown or tripped , and eventually replace it.

If the fuse is ok, and appliance is running but not drying, then next part to test will be the thermostat.

A dryer thermostat can be tested using a multimeter , set to read impedance at RX1. If the thermostat is good, it must have low Ohms at room temp, and return no continuity (infinite ohms) at temp. limit.

At this points things are different depending if dryer is gas or electrical.

On a gas dryer test valve , fan and ignitor.

On electric test the heating element and fan.

On both gas and electric, last part to be tested is the timer control board. If all other parts are fine, go for the timer board.

Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.
Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse  - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out  - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity -  - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

How to take apart information for GE style dryers
How to take apart information for Inglis - Whirlpool - Kenmore dryers
How to take apart information for Maytag dryers
How to take apart information for Frigidaire and White Westinghouse
How to take apart information for Admiral, Norge, Magic Chef and Crosley

Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.

Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.

My generic wiring diagram doesn't show this dryer uses a thermistor, only thermostats. The difference is a thermistor has to have an electronic control to interpret the values the thermistor is sending. A thermostat is mechanical and only open or closes at a preengineered temperature. You would need to check the ohm readings of a thermistor at different temperatures to test it, but you only need to know continuity or no continuity to test a thermostat. First make sure you have 240 volts to the dryer, the heater is the only part that needs 240 to run. It's possible for only half of the breaker to trip and give the dryer only 120 volts, in this case everything but the heater would run. If you've got 240 volts, to the dryer, unplug it, then check for continuity between the 2 terminals of the 2 thermal fuses, cycling thermostat, and hi limit thermostat and heater. Remember you must disconnect one wire before testing to prevent incorrect readings. If it still runs, just no heat, the 2 thermal fuses should be ok, but check them anyways. If they all test ok you'll need to check the temp selector switch. You'll need the wiring diagram to show which terminals to check at each heat setting. If that checks out you'll need to move to the timer, again you'll need the diagram. If the timer checks, the only thing left is the centifugal switch in the motor, and the only way to check that is to test it with the motor running.

This is one of those problems that could be a number of issues. It could be a timer contact stuck in a hot condition, it could be the operating thermostat inside the unit, or if you have a heat cycle selector switch, it may have shorted as well. Each one of these items should be tested with an ohm meter to verify which one of them is the bad part. Let me know if you need further help.