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FRED JERRY MOORE Posted on May 18, 2015
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MY COMPRESSOR WONT COME ON BUT THE FAN WILL RUN. UNIT IS NOT SHORTED.CAP. ARE GOOD

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Gregg

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  • Posted on May 18, 2015
Gregg
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If it is an older unit, the compressor may not start (anymore) with the ''correct'' capacitor. (BTW, after checking everything below you should try _new_ caps anyway).

You don't state if it is a window unit or central air. It matters. If it's central air, check the relay inside the air _handler_ (where the fan is). It tells the compressor to turn on and off. The wall thermostat tells the air handler to ''do it's thing'' (so to speak), and the relay inside the handler tells the compressor to turn on. Some older units use what is called a ''sequencer'' (which is just a type of ''timed'' relay switch).

Be careful. There is 220 volts running through it. Make sure _all_ circuit breakers are off. (I mean ''all'' that have anything to do with HVAC in your house, and sometimes there is a breaker outside near the compressor. Make sure it is _off_).

The relays are cheap enough to just go ahead and buy one and replace it. They can go bad after about 5 years depending on usage, humidity levels, etc... It's a good idea to have a spare anyway, so it's not wasteful to replace it as a ''guess''.

If you're certain of _all_ other parts, then you can try a compressor capacitor ''booster.'' They give extra life to compressors that cannot start with just the correct cap anymore. However, be aware that such a situation is highly energy inefficient. Such a compressor would be eating excess energy just to run itself.

Note however, if the ''start'' winding in the compressor is bad, the booster will not work.

Sometimes the ''run'' winding is bad. If so, the compressor will try to start and then fail. (i.e. it won't just sit there dead doing nothing). If that's the case, you _could_ rewire it to actually start _and_ run on only the start winding. However, it will be extremely energy inefficient and will only last a couple of months (at most). You can find info on how to do such things on the web.

It's not particularly dangerous (once it set up that way), but is _is_ the definition of ''jury rig'' and I would be remiss to not caution you against doing it. I only mention it because I know what it's like to not have AC and also not being able to afford an entire replacement system.

Do not attempt _any_ of the above unless you really understand what you are doing. Unfortunately, you _will not_ find a professional willing to do such a thing for you. I even doubt you could find a pro willing to install a start booster.

Ps... Hopefully it is just a bad relay. However, if it is not a relay, and if the cap ''booster'' thing works, you can leave it that way until it fails. It may even last for a few years. Just be aware your energy bills will be about 1/3rd higher.

In closing, the ''start winding'' solution is an extreme ''jury rig'' and it _will_ fail (the winding will burn out) within days to months; there is no way to tell how long. So, if you do go _that_ route, understand that it is _very_ temporary.

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I have a 6 yr old lennox merit 10acc system and the compressor doesn't seem to be running as there is no cold air and line out of compressor is not cold/sweating like my 2nd (good) unit.

you cant check capacitor with power on it nor using volt setting.need micro ferred setting on meter and check with power off and wires removed. leads go as follow for fan one lead on "C" and one on fan. For compressor one lead on Common and one on HERM. Also be sure voltage on capacitor is correct 360V or 440V. 440V will work for either. Also double check micro ferred requierment on motor and compressor. If its been replaced before may have been replaced with incorrect size. It happens.
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The breaker tripping when you turn the unit on indicates a 'direct short' and 99 out of a 100 times the short will be either the outside fan motor or the compressor itself. Either way - you will need a qualified serviceperson to diagnose this problem correctly and make the needed repairs.
Best solution is to call AC person.
However, here's a good way you can get it down to either the fan motor or the compressor.
(1) With all power OFF - disconnect the wires to the fan motor
(2) turn on AC unit (a) if breaker trips it means the compressor is probably the shorted component. (b) if breaker DOES NOT trip and the compressor runs - it means the fan motor is shorted.
(3) If breaker tripped with the fan motor disconnected meaning the compressor is probably shorted you can then (with ALL POWER OFF) 'disconnect the wires going to the compressor' and re-connect the fan motor wires. Turn on power - and if fan motor runs (with compressor wires off) you know it's the compressor that is shorted.
After all this you will now know which of the two (compressor or fan motor) is shorted.
If it's the fan motor you can with 'limited mechanical experience' change the motor yourself, but if it's the compressor you will need to call a serviceperson because of the expertise needed to replace the compressor.

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I t sounds as if the run capacitor is goinmg bad. You have a start and run capacitor in the unit the start side could be good however the run side is losing voltage and wont let the compressor run at its peak causing a thermal overload shutting down the unit for safety.

Would suggest the rplacement of the capacitor first then go from there

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AC wont kick on....

The first thing to check is your breaker box. There should be one double breaker for the air handler unit, that's the inside unit, and one double breaker for the compressor, that's the outside unit. Check both breakers. If you're not sure if they've be thrown, click them toward the outside of the breaker box (off position) and then click them toward the inside of the breaker box (on position). If the breakers are on and you still are not getting any A/C take a look at your compressor, (outside unit). If the fan is running at least you're getting power. However, your compressor down inside the unit may not be getting power or it may need to be replaced. The compressor has a start-up cap. If this cap goes bad or the wires from this cap fry or corrode away, this will also keep the compressor from starting but the fan will still run. If the fan is not running it could be caused by a faulty relay inside the compressor cabinet. This relay is supposed to open and close based on a low voltage signal from the thermostat. I believe it's roughly 24 volts. This relay switches on and off the 240 volts for the compressor and the compressor fan. Often this relay goes bad or the wires leading up to it fry. If you?re going to work on the unit yourself make sure all power is shut off. There should be a shutoff switch on the outside wall near the compressor. I?d also shut the breakers off.
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It simply wont turn on

a thought is , exactly what wont turn on? the indoor blower? the outdoor fan or the outdoor compressor?. be specific for goodness sakes. i assume you mean the ac wont turn on since its cold here in fla. dont know where you are since you didnt say. if it blows but not cold then outdoor unit is problem. if air out side being discharged is cool then compressor isnt running. check caps and volts through contactor. if ok check power directly into compressor. if ok the look at amps etc.
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