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Color is lighter in center of screen. It started as a small bat-man cape shaped area at top of screen and has moved down the center of the screen over the past week. About 5 inches in width and light blue shade.
Re: Color is lighter in center of screen. It started as a...
Sounds like the alignment in the color guns is off. this takes a professional to repair and usually isn't too terribly costly if it's just a realignment. check your local directory for large tv repair.
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I got this free Pdf man ual from reliable-store for free and I don't think Ive visited a mechanic or fixya for help for more than 3-4 times out of the 20 t imes I fixed the chipper in these 4 years
2) Apply new Thermal Paste to CPU, (Processor), and also carefully peel off the Thermal Pad on graphics chipset, and throw away.
Suggest this time instead of using a Thermal Pad again, (Shudder), use a piece of copper sheet that is the correct thickness, and surface area.
Then use Thermal Paste on top if the graphics chipset, and top of copper sheet; before reinstalling Cooling Tube/Heatsink combo.
B) Graphics chipset has overheated, or actually has been overheating; and has now caused a poor contact of graphics chipset; TO motherboard.
Allow me to expand on A and B above.........
First of all.........do I think the graphics chipset is bad? No sir, I do not. Proof is that you ARE getting graphics on the LCD screen. Three images, or not. (Internal monitor of laptop, OR external monitor)
Referring back to A)
The CPU (Processor) and the graphics chipset, are the two hardware components that give off the MOST heat.
If the laptop is dirty inside, the cooling capacity of the cooling system; has dropped tremendously.
This allows the CPU, and the graphics chipset (GPU), to overheat. Overheating graphics chipset will do all kinds of strange things. (Graphically)
What also transpires, is the Thermal Paste dries up. Looses it's thermal conductivity properties. A Thermal Pad is a material that is impregnated with Thermal Paste, so you can see how this equates. It's impregnated Thermal Paste also dries up.
To regress; The top of a Processor (CPU), and the bottom of the metal plate of the Cooling Tube, that sits on it; are not perfectly smooth.
A magnified view would detail, 'Ridges, Valleys, and Pitholes'. When the two parts are mated together, Air Pockets are formed. Air in this case is an Insulator. Not a Conductor.
Thermal Paste fills the above imperfections, and is an Excellent conductor of heat.
Moving on.........
A Thermal Pad is J-U-N-K! Carefully peel off, and fly it at the cat. (NO, don't! lol!)
Using a small piece of copper sheet, that is the correct thickness; (And width/length), will allow more surface area for cooling. Becomes more passive surface area for cooling.
(The Fan Assembly does not blo-w air on the graphics chipset. More on that in a moment. Therefore it would not be Dynamic cooling. It is Passive cooling )
Let's take a look at the cooling system for the Dell Inspiron M5010, and I feel it will help explain better........
Scroll down to the three large photos. The top, or first photo; shows a Top view. The next photo down shows a Bottom view. The photo below it shows a detailed view of the finned Heatsink.
Looking at the first photo, or can be said - Top View..... The black Fan Assembly is at the top.
Note the rectangular area to the Right, of the black Fan Assembly. This is the Heatsink.
Coming down from it is the curved copper Cooling Tube. Note the small rectangular copper metal plate, then at the bottom of the Cooling Tube; note the V-shaped Aluminum metal plate. (V-shape that goes to an odd shape)
Cooling Tube: Sightly flattened copper tube, sealed on both ends; and filled with Nitrogen.
Has a small rectangular copper metal plate, that sits on the graphics chipset. Also has an Aluminum metal plate (V-shaped), that sits on the CPU. (Processor)
Heatsink: Small piece of aluminum strip, that has Tall, Thin, fins protruding from it, and is rectangular in shape.
Fan Assembly: Small multi-bladed fan, in a D-shaped shroud.
Working principle: Heat is absorbed from the Processor, and graphics chipset, by their two respective metal plates. Then the Cooling Tube absorbs heat from the plates.
The Cooling Tube then transfers the heat to the finned Heatsink. The Heatsink absorbs the heat, then radiates it away with it's tall, thin, fins. Air flow from the Fan Assembly, helps carry heat away from the Heatsink's fins.
That small rectangular piece of copper plate, that sits on the graphics chipset; it TOO SMALL in surface area. The surface area needs to be increased.
This would be accomplished by ADDING a small piece of copper sheet, that is larger in surface area; and is of the correct thickness. (Approximately 1/16th of an Inch thick, or 2mm)
Using this video to help explain adding more surface area,
Posted for added surface area, NOT re-flowing graphics chipset, BGA surface mount. Specifically go to -> 08:38
You can get a small piece of copper sheet, from a hobby store. Thermal Paste is used on TOP of the graphics chipset, AND on top of the small copper piece of metal. Then the Cooling Tube is installed in place.
For additional questions on this procedure, or to have me clarify anything I have stated, please post in a Comment.
It sounds like a Convergence problem--go into the customer menu with the Hitachi remote and select convergence---look to see if one of the colors will not move---you can only move red or blue-----if something will not move you have a convergence problem.
Let me know here what you find and I can tell you what is involved if it is a convergence problem.
Modern televisions have screens divided into sections. Each section controls all the rows in its area, and it is controlled by its own video separate video driver. If you are missing a line in a section, then a problem has occurred with the driver board in that area. It will be pretty expensive to fix, I hope your warranty has not just expired!
Try moving a medium powered magnet (not one for picking up heavy objects and not a refrigerator holding one) over the distorted area. If that doesn't work, try a more powerful one. This worked for my Toshiba LCD. Good luck!
You'll need the pointy end of a paperclip or a pin.
Turn your TomTom upside down and look at the underneath, with the screen facing away from you.
Starting at the back and moving towards the screen, you'll see a small traingular-shaped piece of rubber, then a plastic area with a small hole to the left, then the circuit board with all the little gold connectors.
It's that small hole that's the reset button, push your paper clip or pin in there. Your TomTom should reset straight away, but sometimes it takes a few tries for various lengths of time.
If you wish to get some details; visit the site linked here. Pull up older posts. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
faults & possible causes to LCD & Plasma screen are given with illustrations. You can get an idea about the fault to an extent. Faults to all LCD & Plasma screen are similar, irrespective of its brand and screen size.
Usually if you remove the speaker grill in front there is a convergence panel that can be carefully removed. If you look inside you should see a small rectangular block with six controls. They are labelled focus and screen, and red, blue and green. Adjust only the screen controls very carefully and slowly. I would recommend reducing the red slightly brfore raising the green and then blue until the picture looks acceptable. Be sure to center the on screen controls before starting.
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