Whirlpool Front Loader F5/E3 error - took off panel and pulled "ring" as suggested on other sites. Door opened - no water. Closed the door and relocks - error still blinking.....?????? Help please~

Replace door inter lock

I have a problem with a whirlpool washer it shows f5 e3, but the lid is unlocked and everything. It's not just letting me do my laundry

There is a quick release switch right hand side on top of the latch mechanism. You can remove the top of the washing machine panel and the control panel to access it with a metal coat hanger.

MAYTAG E3 F5 CLOTHES WASHER ERROR SOLVED
On my Maytag MHW5100DW0, we had an E3 F5 error code, and it started at the beginning of the wash cycle.
THIS IS WHAT WAS WRONG
There is a small torsion spring inside the door lock assembly that had become dislodged from it's position.
HERE ARE MY OBSERVATIONS./SYMPTOMS
The door lock was clicking, and continued until the code came up on the panel. The light for the door lock would flash but not light.
The key to the symptom was that the door would not open, even with the door lock light off.
I could yank on the door while the lock was clicking, and the door would finally pop open.
By removing the striker, I determined that the washer door latch/lock, part # W10443885 was malfunctioning, because if you push the striker into the lock, it would snap it into a locked position, and would not let go.
I removed the washer door latch/lock, and saw there is a plastic rod that could be pushed into, and pulled out of the unit. When it was pushed in, removing the striker was not as difficult. There is a plastic ribbon attached to a round handle that is designed to actuate the rod by pulling the round handle up.
I carefully pulled off the white back by using a small pick to push back the retainers. There was very little effort required, and no obvious spring pressure as the back came open. KEEP THE UNIT FACE DOWN.
There is one small compression spring that uses the back as back-pressure. It is very small, low compression pressure, and acts as a spring for the door closed switch. It is critical for operation, but is not likely to come shooting out.
Once the back was removed, keep the part face down, with the internals upward facing so you can see inside it. With the unit oriented with the electrical contacts at the 12:00 o-clock position, there is a plastic rod coming out of the bottom of the unit at the 7:00 o-clock position. That rod moves into and out of the unit, and presses on a round ring that rotates. That ring actuates an electrical contact point, and moves with an electrically actuated solenoid. Close to the bottom left of the solenoid, there is a small extension spring used to return the plastic external rod back to the out/down position. UNDER that small spring is another spring, but this spring is a very small torsion spring, that resides in a pathway built into the plastic rod.
THIS IS WHAT WENT WRONG!!!
The small torsion spring has dropped out of it's pathway, and that small spring is what is actually causing the latch to lock, and stick into the locked position. Much like a click-to-open ball point pen, the plastic rod is meant to depress, lock, then depress and release.
Replace that small spring that looks like a small thin wire, into it's pathway built into the mobile plastic rod, and function should be restored.
BEWARE!!!!
If you test the fix by pushing the striker into the lock/latch while the back of the unit is still off, the shock of the spring snapping onto the striker can throw the solenoid out of the unit. How to reinsert that solenoid is not immediately obvious. You will need to find the three round pins molded into the body of the solenoid, and determine orientation based on the single pin fitting into the single pin-hole that resides underneath. The other two pins fit loosely into a void.
While reassembling the lock/latch, remember that there is a floppy white plastic piece that acted as a pull handle to manually actuate the plastic rod, and reassemble the two halves of the unit with the handle in place.

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