This problem occurs after the drum fills with water and the machine starts the wash cycle.
Check for a faulty solenoid under the drum that activates the reverse pawl
get a technician to inspect and repair.
Possible that the drum release lock is not working or is jammed and hence the drive does not work in the reverse direction. It will be best to reset the drum and rotor mechanism, free with grease and oil and reset. The machine can be tilted after removing the power and this mechanism could be removed and reset.
You will need to bypass the door switch and the water level control to simulate and make the machine work in this position.
SOURCE: "howling" noise during spin cycle (still there after changing burned off belt)
Travioso, there was two service flashes out on this model concerning the seal and bearing which means they had an issue with this washer. The howling noise you are hearing is the bearing and will need the new designed triple seal and bearing kit. This should be covered under your warranty, I believe it is 5 years. The numbers for the service flashes are TDL-0048A-B. Call Maytag and inquire about these service flashes, these should be covered. Catriver.
SOURCE: how to get front panel off neptune fav6800aww washing machine
Just a quick search in this forum fot "Front Panel" returned this post which says it better then I could.
http://www.fixya.com/support/t538238-remove_front_panel
SOURCE: Maytag front loader washer--door won't open but lock light off
Open the soap dispenser. Look down in front of the fabric softener dish.
You should see a yellowy-green plastic cord (like weed-whacker line). Pull it.
The door should open.
If you don't see the cord, remove the four screws that hold the dispenser lid in place to find it. Just don't lose it when you put the cover back on.
SOURCE: Maytag neptune washer model fav6800aww wont finish spin cycle
Hello c bellone,
If you rotate the clutch pulley by hand CW the tumblers should rotate in the wash basket. If you rotate the clutch pulley CCW the tumblers will rotate until the clutch spring comes under tension then the wash basket will begin to turn CCW and the tumblers will stop rotating because the transmission rotates with the wash basket. Do you have this action?
The clutch has been an issue for many are you taking dc or UC errors to the display? This clutch incorporates a Drawn Cup Roller clutch bearing (one way clutch bearing) designed to rotate freely CW and lock up CCW to rotate the spinner shaft in spin cycle rotating the wash basket/transmission CCW. You are halfway thru the clutch removal process, I would drop the clutch out and inspect the roller clutches, clean them up with WD-40 and some light bearing grease. If they are rusted up beyond clean up and or the clutch spring is broken as in this post you will have to replace the clutch. You will know what you are up against once the clutch is out and opened up for inspection.
Here is the process I use for clutch removal;
Access and remove the Clutch for maintenance
Disconnect 120VAC power cord.
The Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.
Raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point.
Remove the front panel see page 41.
Tools required;
3/8 inch socket and socket wrench to remove clutch pulley bolt. Page 47 of the SM
1/2 inch socket or wrench to loosen Drive Motor tension bolt.
5/16 nut driver or 5/16 ¼ socket on an extension to remove front panel see page 41 of the SM.
1. Lean the washer back and blocked in that position for a better reach angle. Rotate 3/8” clutch Pulley Bolt CW to remove clutch bolt.
2. Follow SM page 46 & 47 to remove clutch pulley.
3. Remove 4 screws holding plastic cover on clutch, inspect clutch spring to make sure it is not broken. Inspect roller bearings clean up with WD-40 and re-lube with bearing grease.
4. Replace white bearing plate into clutch pulley hub, insure key slot slips into clutch Spring pin in clutch hub.
5. Replace Clutch plastic cover with 4 screws.
6. Reseat clutch on spinner shaft and rock back and forth while lifting clutch with upward pressure to reseat clutch. When seated properly you will feel a 1/16-1/8" gap between the Pulley face and shaft end as mentioned and shown on page 47 of the SM. On reinstallation, tighten Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to 96” pounds 8’ foot pounds (Snug no torque wrench required).
7. Do a quick wash and make sure clutch runs true with no wobble or clicking sound. If the clutch has not been seated properly it will spin off. If this happens go to page 16 of the SM Board Output Test and turn on Drain Pump in Service Mode to pump out excess water.
8. Repeat steps 6&7 if the clutch has excessive noise or spins off.
My clutch open up for clean up.
SOURCE: Maytag Neptune Top Load FAV6800AWW -- tub/motor will not spin
Hey Cameron,
I saw you post today on another forum and did not have time to put my thoughts down before work. I agree not a clutch issue I had to :), you would be so lucky. I own the machine and can’t offer any more troubleshooting then what you have done, good job of that. Unfortunately the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW SM doesn’t have a whole lot of support for troubleshooting beyond what you have done for this issue. I found more info from the MAH3000 manual on the technical operation of the motor controller (slightly different controller). Both machines use the same troubleshooting paths. Remove JP4 which is;
P1 Motor Control common
P2 Torque (to Motor Controller) see page 1-11 MAH3000
P3 Motor Control Tach (to control board input)
My WAG is replace the Motor Controller 1st, then Control board 2nd and a possible tach issue related to the motor. That’s enough WAGing,…. but with troubleshooting not a complete WAG :).
Take a look at pages 2-5 thru 2-11, I keyed in on page 2-11 in the MAH3000, it may give you some additional insight, I know we are dealing with different machine designs but I think the designs are close regarding motor controller, the motor and what the Control Board is doing and looking for with input from the Motor Controller. I wish the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW SM gave this kind of detail for troubleshooting. There is a nice little troubleshooting table on 2-11.
I keyed in on this note;
The motor control monitors the signals and communicates this information to the machine control (control board). The purpose of this signal is to tell the motor when to energize each winding in the motor and to tell the machine control the actual motor speed.
Then this note;
Note: If the machine control board does not receive an input signal from the motor control/tachometer circuit (JP4 connector), the motor speed will rapidly accelerate for 5 seconds then shut down. The machine control will sense a "locked rotor" condition and the motor will stop. If the motor control does not receive an input signal from the motor, the motor will "****" for 5 seconds then shut down.
I don’t believe you have that condition. I have worked with a forum member who had an issue with the motor controller related to an Lr error, locked rotor error and replacing the Motor Controller fixed the issue. Form here I vote for an issue with the Motor Controller. Not having known good parts makes this a difficult job.
The control board is under warranty for 5 yrs from DOP, the Control Board is 2 yrs. Ebay is a good source 25001079
I would push Maytag CSV for both. I got them to send me a Control Board after discussing my troubleshooting and that I had a neighbor (me) that was a repair tech who would install. I also had to send them copy of my warranty not sure why they beeded that my machine was on file with them.
In your console you will find a Troubleshooting guide if you haven’t pulled it out already. It has the schematic for the machine which I find handy. If you want a soft PDF copy of the schematic I can e-mail you. Just ping me at [email protected]. I use that for one-way contact, just respond back on this post if you ping me, I don’t check the account for month’s at a time.
With my limited knowledge I will try to help you. Good luck. Rich
Testimonial: "Awesome help and advice -- thank you to everyone!"
Motor for the most part is bullet proof has a 10 yr warranty
I would start with front panel removal and see if you can rotate the Clutch Pulley CW the Wash/agitate direction and CCW the Spin direction. Make sure nothing is seized.
It could be an issue with the Control Board or the Motor Controller. I have working spares for all and that makes troubleshooting easier.
If you decide to troubleshoot further and try a Control Board swap (in the console) or a Motor Controller swap I would buy parts from a supplier that will allow you to return the part for refund with no questions asked.
Google this ""Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW"" a forum where I help owners of the FAV6800A and FAV9800A machines.
This is a sticky on a DIY forum at the 5th post down you can link to the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual. You can post in that forum in the Maytag washer forum for additional help. You will find a link to parts supplier.
I link you to a post on this forum where I was working with an owner who was troubleshooting issues and started throwing a LR error code. He ended up replacing both the Motor Control Board, my 1st suggestion and that did not resolve the issue. A Control Board swap in the Console resolved the issue. Maytag Neptune Top Load FAV6800AWW -- tub/motor will not spin ...
I won't troubleshoot any further on this forum it's just difficult for me. Can't edit, search post and sometimes pics don't attach. There are better DIY forums out there for working on the FAV6800A/FAV9800A......just mu opinion.
Your machine more than likely is ready for an Tub Seal replacement.....Google this FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement Another forum I help owners with FAV6800A/FAV9800A machine issues........good luck.
Google this ""Sticky: Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW""" Post your problem at this Forum. You will find the FAVA9800A/FAV6800A Service Manual at that site.
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