The machine will not start. Absolutely nothing when I engage the key. Battery good

Check Battery. If headlight equipped turn key to headlight on position and see if headlights are lit. No light dead battery dead tractor,

Charge battery. If after charging weak or no start forget the battery and get new, Life of battery is two to three years,

If battery good make sure that parking brake set and blades are not engaged. Safety lockout will prevent tractor from cranking. The tracker has a safety interlock on the seat that requires a body warm or cold sitting on the seat if the parking brake is not set. The seat switch is known to fail. Try bouncing on the seat?

OK if battery OK and seat is sat or park brake set we can assume the safety interlock circuit is disabling the start circuit.

Need model to provide more answers
.
This website video shows how to check the component. Your model would be similar.
How to test lawn mower electrical safety switches

This electrical diagram is for a typical lawn tractor. Your model would be similar but different . This will give you an idea. The switch on the seat has two sets of contacts.

When I turn the key nothing happens.
There are several elements that go into cranking (turning over) the engine.

1. Battery
2. Fuse
3. Key Switch (and wiring)
4. Starter Solenoid and wires
5. Starter motor

To begin with check the fuse. It's a 20amp car style fuse located under the hood near the battery.

If the fuse does not fix the problem let's move on to the battery. The quickest way to make your initial check of the entire starting system and particularly the battery is to get a jump. Yep, get some jumper cables and jump the mower off your car. Turn the key and try to start it in the normal fashion(normal meaning YOU in the seat, PTO off, BRAKE pressed all the way down). If it starts cool! It is likely a bad battery.

• Charge the battery for a few hours, on a charger.
• Then perform a voltage measurement of the battery.
• Switch a volt meter to DC Volts and clip it to the battery. It should read between 12-13 volts. If not the battery is suspect. If it is 12-13 volts see if it will crank, but continue to watch the volts. If they drop below 10ish volts, the battery may have a bad cell.

Now let's check the starting system while bypassing all the safety switches and wiring. How? You can perform this test simply by jumping the starter solenoid. Hold a wrench or fat screwdriver across the two large posts of the starter solenoid. This bypasses the key switch and all safety devices and directly drives the starter. Your starter will crank if the battery and starter are good, the wires and connections are good, and the engine is not locked up. Don't crank it for more than a couple seconds. You just want to verify the battery and the starter are both in good shape. (The engine will crank but not start during this test as long as the key is off, or if the safety switches or wiring are damaged, or if the safety switches are in the no start/run positions.)

If the starter cranks try one more test. Run a small jumper wire from the positive post of the battery to the little terminal on the solenoid. You may have to take the small wire off the positive terminal of the starter solenoid, in order to do this. When you apply this current from the battery to the positive terminal it should make the solenoid activate and the starter crank. This test bypasses the key switch and shows you the starter system is working. You could do this test first; if it works you do not need to do the basic jump test.

If these tests cause the engine to crank, but it will not crank with the key, then you know you have a problem somewhere in your starter wiring, safety switch system, fuse, or in your Key Switch. Of course you did check the battery terminals for tight, clean connections, right?

Most modern riding mowers have the following 4 safety switches:

• Seat switch
• PTO switch
• Reverse switch (RIS) and Reverse Relay (RIO)
• Brake/Clutch switch

If you need detailed instruction for testing your wiring and safety system, I will need your complete machine info.

• Make
• Model
• Year
• Engine Model
• Transmission Model
• Deck Size.

On a John Deere (100 series) the starting current flows through the following items in this order:

1. Battery to Fuse then to the Key Switch.
2. With key switch in the start position, the current flows from the Key Switch to PTO.
3. With PTO off, current flows from the PTO to Brake/Clutch Switch
4. With Brake/Clutch Pedal all the way down, the current flows through the switch to the starter solenoid.
5. If the Starter Solenoid is in good shape, the solenoid connects the battery to the Starter and the engine cranks. Cranking does not mean running; it just means the engine turns over. Running is dependent on many other systems.

Those components are all part of the cranking/starting system. They can prevent the Starter Motor from cranking when you turn the Key Switch. You can trace the voltage with a multi-meter. Connect the black lead to ground and look for 12 volts at each successive switch. If the voltage disappears at one particular step, there is your suspect.

Electrical elements that are NOT part of the starting system:
The RIO is the Reverse Implement Option. It is a switch that latches and stays latched under certain conditions. It is activated by the RIS. The RIS is the Reverse Implement Switch. It activates the RIO.These switches are called slightly different names by different manufacturer, but they all do the same thing. These two separate components work to allow the blades to cut while you are backing up (without killing the engine). They have nothing to do with the starting system.

The Seat and the RIO (the reverse latch not the button) switches are tied into the engine kill system. They provide a ground path for grounding the Coil. This same system controls the fuel shut off valve beneath the carburetor. The Seat and RIO can keep the engine from running but they will not prevent the Starter Motor from cranking. Therefore, if you turn the key and nothing happens, the problem has nothing to do with the Seat and Reverse switches.

Note: With the Key in the RUN position, power flows from the Key Switch to the Hour Meter, then to the RIO latch relay (not the RIS button), then to the fuel shut off solenoid. If you do not hear the Fuel Shut off Solenoid clicking on and off when you turn the Key Switch from off to run, there may be a problem in this circuit; including a possible problem in the Hour Meter. Of course none of this affects the cranking circuit. Your engine will still crank, it just won't start and run.

When I turn the key nothing happens.
There are several elements that go into cranking (turning over) the engine.

1. Battery
2. Fuse
3. Key Switch (and wiring)
4. Starter Solenoid and wires
5. Starter motor

To begin with check the fuse. It's a 20amp car style fuse located under the hood near the battery.

If the fuse does not fix the problem let's move on to the battery. The quickest way to make your initial check of the entire starting system and particularly the battery is to get a jump. Yep, get some jumper cables and jump the mower off your car. Turn the key and try to start it in the normal fashion ( meaning sitting in the seat, pto off, brake fully depressed). If it starts cool! It is likely a bad battery. To check this out do the following:

• Charge the battery for a few hours, on a charger.
• Then perform a voltage measurement of the battery.
• Switch a volt meter to DC Volts and clip it to the battery. It should read between 12-13 volts. If not the battery is suspect. If it is 12-13 volts see if it will crank, but continue to watch the volts. If they drop below 10ish volts, the battery may have a bad cell.

Now let's check the starting system while bypassing all the safety switches and wiring. How? You can perform this test simply by jumping the starter solenoid. Hold a wrench or fat screwdriver across the two large posts of the starter solenoid. This bypasses the key switch and all safety devices and directly drives the starter. Your starter will crank if the battery and starter are good, the wires and connections are good, and the engine is not locked up. Don't crank it for more that a couple seconds. You just want to verify the battery and the starter are both in good shape. (The engine will crank but not start during this test if the key is off, or if the safety switches or wiring are damaged, or if the safety switches are in the no start/run positions.)

If the starter cranks try one more test. Run a small jumper wire from the positive post of the battery to the little terminal on the solenoid. You may have to take the small wire off the terminal, on the starter solenoid, in order to do this. When you apply this current from the battery to the terminal it should make the solenoid activate and the starter crank. This test bypasses the key switch and shows you the starter system is working. You could do this test first; if it works you do not need to do the basic jump test.

If these tests cause the engine to crank, but it will not crank with the key, then you know you have a problem somewhere in your starter wiring, safety switch system, fuse, or in your Key Switch. Of course you did check the battery terminals for good connection, right?

Most modern riding mowers have the following safety switches:

• Seat switch
• PTO switch
• Reverse switch (RIS) and Reverse Relay (RIO)
• Brake/Clutch switch

If you need detailed instruction for testing your wiring and safety system, I will need your complete machine info.

• Make
• Model
• Year
• Engine Model
• Transmission Model
• Deck Size.

On a John Deere (100 series) the starting current flows through the following items in this order:

1. Battery to Fuse then to the Key Switch.
2. With key switch in the start position, the current flows from the Key Switch to PTO.
3. With PTO off, current flows from the PTO to Brake/Clutch
4. With Brake/Clutch Pedal all the way down, the current flows to the starter solenoid.
5. If the Starter Solenoid is in good shape, the solenoid connects the battery to the Starter and the engine cranks. Cranking does not mean running; it just means the engine turns over. Running is dependent on many other systems.

Those components are all part of the cranking/starting system. They can prevent the Starter Motor from cranking when you turn the Key Switch. You can trace the voltage with a multi-meter. Connect the black lead to ground and look for 12 volts on each successive step. If the voltage disappears at one particular step, there is your suspect.

Electrical elements that are NOT part of the starting system:
The RIO is the Reverse Implement Option. It is a switch that latches and stays latched under certain conditions. It is activated by the RIS. The RIS is the Reverse Implement Switch. It activates the RIO. These two separate components work to allow the blades to cut while you are backing up (without killing the engine). They have nothing to do with the starting system.

The Seat and the RIO (the reverse latch not the button) switches are tied into the engine kill system. They provide a ground path for grounding the Coil. This same system controls the fuel shut off valve beneath the carburetor. The Seat and RIO can keep the engine from running but they will not prevent the Starter Motor from cranking. Therefore, if you turn the key and nothing happens, the problem has nothing to do with the Seat and Reverse switches.

Note: With the Key in the RUN position, power flows from the Key Switch to the Hour Meter, then to the RIO latch relay (not the RIS button), then to the fuel shut off solenoid. If you do not hear the Fuel Shut off Solenoid clicking on and off when you turn the Key Switch from off to run, there may be a problem in this circuit; including a possible problem in the Hour Meter. Of course none of this affects the cranking circuit. Your engine will still crank, it just won't run.

When I turn the key nothing happens.
There are several elements that go into cranking (turning over) the engine.

1. Battery
2. Fuse
3. Key Switch (and wiring)
4. Starter Solenoid and wires
5. Starter motor

Let's start with the battery. The quickest way to make your initial check of the entire starting system and particularly the battery is to get a jump. Yep, get some jumper cables and jump the mower off your car. Turn the key and try to start it in the normal fashion. If it starts cool! It is likely a bad battery.

• Charge the battery for a few hours, on a charger.
• Then perform a voltage measurement of the battery.
• Switch a volt meter to DC Volts and clip it to the battery. It should read between 12-13 volts. If not the battery is suspect.

Now let's check the starting system while bypassing all the safety switches and wiring. How? You can perform this test simply by jumping the starter solenoid. Hold a wrench or fat screwdriver across the two large posts of the starter solenoid. This bypasses the key switch and all safety devices and directly drives the starter. Your starter will crank if the battery and starter are good, the wires and connections are good, and the engine is not locked up. Don't crank it for more that a couple seconds. You just want to verify the battery and the starter are both in good shape. (The engine will crank but not start during this test if the key is off, or if the safety switches or wiring are damaged, or if the safety switches are in the no start/run positions.)

If the starter cranks try one more test. Run a small jumper wire from the positive post of the battery to the little terminal on the solenoid. You may have to take the small wire off the terminal, on the starter solenoid, in order to do this. When you apply this current from the battery to the terminal it should make the solenoid activate and the starter crank. This test bypasses the key switch and shows you the starter system is working. You could do this test first; if it works you do not need to do the basic jump test.

If these tests cause the engine to crank, but it will not crank with the key, then you know you have a problem somewhere in your starter wiring, safety switch system, fuse, or in your Key Switch. Of course you did check the battery terminals for good connection, right?

Most modern riding mowers have the following safety switches:

• Seat switch
• PTO switch
• Reverse switch (RIS) and Reverse Relay (RIO)
• Brake/Clutch switch

If you need detailed instruction for testing your wiring and safety system, I will need your complete machine info.

• Make
• Model
• Year
• Engine Model
• Transmission Model
• Deck Size.

On a John Deere (100 series) the starting current flows through the following items in this order:

1. Battery to Fuse then to the Key Switch.
2. With key switch in the start position, the current flows from the Key Switch to PTO.
3. With PTO off, current flows from the PTO to Brake/Clutch
4. With Brake/Clutch Pedal all the way down, the current flows to the starter solenoid.
5. If the Starter Solenoid is in good shape, the solenoid connects the battery to the Starter and the engine cranks. Cranking does not mean running; it just means the engine turns over. Running is dependent on many other systems.

Those components are all part of the cranking/starting system. They can prevent the Starter Motor from cranking when you turn the Key Switch. You can trace the voltage with a multi-meter. Connect the black lead to ground and look for 12 volts on each successive step. If the voltage disappears at one particular step, there is your suspect.

Electrical elements that are NOT part of the starting system:
The RIO is the Reverse Implement Option. It is a switch that latches and stays latched under certain conditions. It is activated by the RIS. The RIS is the Reverse Implement Switch. It activates the RIO. These two separate components work to allow the blades to cut while you are backing up (without killing the engine). They have nothing to do with the starting system.

The Seat and the RIO (the reverse latch not the button) switches are tied into the engine kill system.They provide a ground path for grounding the Coil. This same system controls the fuel shut off valve beneath the carburetor. The Seat and RIO can keep the engine from running but they will not prevent the Starter Motor from cranking. Therefore, if you turn the key and nothing happens, the problem has nothing to do with the Seat and Reverse switches.

Note: With the Key in the RUN position, power flows from the Key Switch to the Hour Meter, then to the RIO latch relay (not the RIS button), then to the fuel shut off solenoid. If you do not hear the Fuel Shut off Solenoid clicking on and off when you turn the Key Switch from off to run, there may be a problem in this circuit; including a possible problem in the Hour Meter. Of course none of this affects the cranking circuit. Your engine will still crank, it just won't run.

When I turn the key nothing happens.
There are several elements that go into cranking (turning over) the engine.

1. Battery
2. Fuse
3. Key Switch (and wiring)
4. Starter Solenoid and wires
5. Starter motor

Let's start with the battery. The quickest way to make your initial check of the entire starting system and particularly the battery is to get a jump. Yep, get some jumper cables and jump the mower off your car. Turn the key and try to start it in the normal fashion. If it starts cool! It is likely a bad battery.

• Charge the battery for a few hours, on a charger.
• Then perform a voltage measurement of the battery.
• Switch a volt meter to DC Volts and clip it to the battery. It should read between 12-13 volts. If not the battery is suspect.

Now let's check the starting system while bypassing all the safety switches and wiring. How? You can perform this test simply by jumping the starter solenoid. Hold a wrench or fat screwdriver across the two large posts of the starter solenoid. This bypasses the key switch and all safety devices and directly drives the starter. Your starter will crank if the battery and starter are good, the wires and connections are good, and the engine is not locked up. Don't crank it for more that a couple seconds. You just want to verify the battery and the starter are both in good shape. (The engine will crank but not start during this test if the key is off, or if the safety switches or wiring are damaged, or if the safety switches are in the no start/run positions.)

If the starter cranks try one more test. Run a small jumper wire from the positive post of the battery to the little terminal on the solenoid. You may have to take the small wire off the terminal, on the starter solenoid, in order to do this. When you apply this current from the battery to the terminal it should make the solenoid activate and the starter crank. This test bypasses the key switch and shows you the starter system is working. You could do this test first; if it works you do not need to do the basic jump test.

If these tests cause the engine to crank, but it will not crank with the key, then you know you have a problem somewhere in your starter wiring, safety switch system, fuse, or in your Key Switch. Of course you did check the battery terminals for good connection, right?

Most modern riding mowers have the following safety switches:

• Seat switch
• PTO switch
• Reverse switch (RIS) and Reverse Relay (RIO)
• Brake/Clutch switch

If you need detailed instruction for testing your wiring and safety system, I will need your complete machine info.

• Make
• Model
• Year
• Engine Model
• Transmission Model
• Deck Size.

On a John Deere (100 series) the starting current flows through the following items in this order:

1. Battery to Fuse then to the Key Switch.
2. With key switch in the start position, the current flows from the Key Switch to PTO.
3. With PTO off, current flows from the PTO to Brake/Clutch
4. With Brake/Clutch Pedal all the way down, the current flows to the starter solenoid.
5. If the Starter Solenoid is in good shape, the solenoid connects the battery to the Starter and the engine cranks. Cranking does not mean running; it just means the engine turns over. Running is dependent on many other systems.

That list of components are all part of the cranking/starting system. They can prevent the Starter Motor from cranking when you turn the Key Switch. You can trace the voltage with a multi meter.Connect the black lead to ground and look for 12 volts on each successive step.If the voltage disappears at one particular step, there is your suspect.

Electrical elements that are NOT part of the starting system:
The RIO is the Reverse Implement Option. It is a switch that latches and stays latched under certain conditions. It is activated by the RIS. The RIS is the Reverse Implement Switch. It activates the RIO. These two separate components work to allow the blades to cut while you are backing up (without killing the engine). They have nothing to do with the starting system.

The Seat and the RIO (the reverse latch not the button) switches are tied into the engine kill system.They provide a ground path for grounding the Coil. This same system controls the fuel shut off valve beneath the carburetor. The Seat and RIO can keep the engine from running but they will not prevent the Starter Motor from cranking. Therefore, if you turn the key and nothing happens, the problem has nothing to do with the Seat and Reverse switches.

Note: With the Key in the RUN position, power flows from the Key Switch to the Hour Meter, then to the RIO latch relay (not the RIS button), then to the fuel shut off solenoid. If you do not hear the Fuel Shut off Solenoid clicking on and off when you turn the Key Switch from off to run, there may be a problem in this circuit; including a possible problem in the Hour Meter. Of course none of this affects the cranking circuit. Your engine will still crank, it just won't run.

There is usually one in the seat.

If Your battery is Hot, make sure that the mower blade is dis-engaged, make sure nothing is under Your seat interfering with the seat safety switch and then be sure to push the brake down hard while You turn the key. God Luck!

Usually when the key is turned to start position the starter soleniod engages thus applying power to the starter. There are three possible causes to your problem . (1) Check for 12vdc at the terminal on the soleniod when the key is turned to start position, if there is 12vdc at the terminal then the key switch is good. (2) loose or bad cable connection at the soleniod, check connections. (3) bad soleniod -- replace it. generally you will hear a click from the soleniod when the key is turned to start position. Also be sure to check that ALL safety switches are engaged. You may need someone to sit in the drivers seat so that switch will be "made" / engaged. Park Brake is set, mowing blades are "NOT " being engaged, on some mowers if the transmission is in reverse ,even tho the brake is set the mower will not start.

check to make sure that mower deck drive is not engaged. there is a switch that the lever presses on it must be free. also check for seat switch cables loose or disconnected. Also make sure it is in neutral and not reverse as it may also kill the circuit for safety. Depends on you system for mow backwards. with key on you can short the two large terminals on solenoid to see if starter works. if so you must check all safety switches . try setting park brake before trying to start too.

safety switches that all riding mowers seem to have include a seat/brake safety which means that you have to be sitting in the seat or the brake must be engaged for it to start. also there is the blade engaged safety, which means the mower will not start normally with the blades engaged.
if you meet those conditions check the switches themselves
non safety related, do you hear a click or a clunk when you turn the key to the start position, this is the starting coil pulling in to send power from the battery to the engine starter, all safety switches will interupt power from the key switch to the starting coil
if you hear the coil energize and the engine does not start you have low battery voltage or loose connection or some other mechanical problem