Wiring rectifier correctly?

I'm sorry, but I cannot provide specific wiring diagrams or instructions for connecting components on specific vehicles, as it can vary depending on the make and model of the motorcycle. It's important to consult the user manual or seek assistance from a professional mechanic or experienced individual who is familiar with the specific wiring requirements of your Big Boy GPR 250 motorcycle.
In general, the connection between a rectifier and a CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) module typically involves the following steps:

1. Locate the rectifier and CDI module on your motorcycle. Refer to the motorcycle's manual or schematic diagram for their specific locations.
2. Identify the wiring terminals or connectors on the rectifier and CDI module. They are usually labeled with letters or symbols.
3. Connect the DC output from the rectifier to the appropriate input terminal on the CDI module. The rectifier converts the AC current from the motorcycle's alternator into DC current, which is required by the CDI module.
4. Connect the CDI module to the ignition coil. The specific terminals or connectors will vary depending on the CDI module and ignition coil used. Refer to the CDI module's manual or schematic diagram for the correct connections.
5. Double-check all the connections to ensure they are secure and properly attached.

It is crucial to follow the manufacturer's instructions and specifications provided for your specific motorcycle model. If you are uncertain about the wiring or connections, it's best to consult a professional motorcycle mechanic or seek guidance from someone with expertise in motorcycle electrical systems.

What is the model number? Your question is too general.

first, make sure your brushes are making good contact at the slip rings, and the brush connectors are clean and tight.
There are two bridge rectifiers which you will see if you remove the top cover of your machine, test the rectifiers, one of them has probably failed, before testing make sure you mark the wires before you pull them off of the rectifiers you will find a wiring diagram on the inside of one of the panels, the rectifiers are connected across the fuses, they are typically 40 amp/600 volt rectifiers

First Things first. Do not replace a part on the off chance that its no good. The rectifiers are not cheap. They are all the same if it's 12 volt systems. Rectifiers only go bad if the wires that enter or exit them, become corroded. Fuse will go first on a short of any kind. These short circuits can be found sometimes inside speedometer or other gauges Never go tearing apart a wiring harness to look for a problem. You will soon have a big one then..Replacing things like tail light bulbs or turn signal bulbs must be done with the proper Wattage and voltage. They are Series Circuits and must add up to the correct resistance or will not work. Rectifiers can be rigged if the wiring is the same as another. They heat up because they are meant to. Not because they are bad. Check the Diodes for one-way flow. If they wont show conductive direction one way in and one way out of the same wire passing through the rectifier, then they-are bad. Check direction with a cheap ohms meter set at Rx1 on the dial. Positive & Negative exclusive direction. All it does is change AC current to DC current with a battery wire , a coil wire, & a ground wire to frame. The battery acts like a regulator by absorbing amperage and feeding the lights system. Other wise it's only a few tools to unbolt it and unplug the connecting adapter. Return to the original position. Disconnect the battery first. in any case. -Kelly Calk Certified Harley Davidson Mechanic.

Which control panel?
White can be Com, and Black Lo, and Red/Blue Hi
But this is guessing without knowing control panel wiring.

For example T106 timer. Wires can be any color.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/T-106-control-208-277V-4-40.jpg
High connects to terminal 4
Low connects to terminal 1
Com connects to terminal A

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

You can check with a voltmeter and see which 2 wires have AC voltage in them.
Go with a 500 VAC (Volts AC) and carefully test the wires. Only 2 will have voltage.
The other 2 will be dead. My guess is the 2 blue wires will be AC. BE VERY CAREFUL.
Have a helper there to unplug the unit should you touch what you shouldnt.
After you determine which have AC unplug the stove and look at the rectifier. It should have
a ~ looking stamped in it where the AC goes on 2 of the terminals. The other 2 should have a
+ and a - . Red usually being positive connect Red to the +. Black being negative connect Black
to the - . Should do the trick. Let me know if it doesnt look that way.
If you want a schematic, give us Name Brand and exact model number. We will try to find
it for you.

Remove the plugs from the head. Insert into the coil wires. Make sure they are properly earthed on the engine. Crank the motor and check for spark at each of the plugs.
Refer to the diagram. Cylinders are connected as shown on the diagram in blue. 1 goes to cylinder 1(sparkplug furthest from coil pack), 2 to 2, 3 to 3 and 4 to 4(closets to coil pack).
To test the coil pack use a digital volt meter. Measure resistance between coil towers for coil 1(marked 1 in red on diagram) Value should be between 12000 and 14500 ohm. Do the same for coil towers 2.
Measure resistance between I and C1. If the measurement is more than 5 ohm the coil is defective. Do the same for I to C2.
Measuring voltage at I(Ignition start/run) to ground should be 10V.
I is connected to the 15A engine fuse. The radio interference capacitor is connected between this line and earth at the coil. Disconnect it to see if it cures the problem.
C1 and C2 connect to the powertrain control module.
Bear in mind that aftermarket coil wires may cause problems with misfiring, so see if you cant find an OEM coil wire to replace the broken one before replacing anything else.

iF YOU ARE NOT GETTING A SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER THEN
1 CHECK FOR POWER TO COILS WITH A METER
IF NONE THEN SUSPECT :- THE IGNITION FUSE - VISUALLY CHECK THE WIRING - A BAD CONNECTION IN THE IGNITION CIRCUIT - THE KILL OR SIDESTAND OR CLUTCH SWITCH, OR EVEN THE IGNITION SWITCH.
2 IF THERE IS POWER THEN SUSPECT THE PICK-UP (PULSAR) COILS & WIRING FROM THERE TO THE CDI - & LASTLY BY A PROCESS OF ELIMINATION SUSPECT THE CDI (ITS GENERALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO CHECK THE CDI APART FROM VISUALLY & BY REPLACEMENT)

I HOPE THIS HELPS, IF SO PLEASE MARK AS USEFUL
RIDE-SAFE
BIKE-DOC

There should be a wiring diagram on the back of the access panel. If you can't read it, check online for model wiring diagram. Don't guess, you may cause more expensive damage.