It is the seal on your water pump slowly failing. When it pumps on the rinse or spin cycles a small amount of water travels down the pump shaft where it gets thrown out onto the windings. Once the windings get wet they will get hot and emit a sort of wet burning smell and short out, tripping the RCD on your power supply. Fit a new pump.
The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.
Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.
If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.
You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.
If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.
If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.
Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.
The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.
To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.
Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel top loader washing machine self cleaning mode
wonder if it means the agitator is full of lint? to remove agitator, put your hand/arm down center of agitator and unscrew the white plastic knob. Agitator lifts off. Mine is always clogged with lint and crud.
SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel GW612 Top Loading Washing
Hi there
That fault is the pump blocked error (no change in water level).
i have a quick and easy way to solve this problem.
first turn the machine off then tilt the machine back and lean it on something(a chair or wall), look underneath, in the top right hand corner of the plastic outer boul you will see a small pump motor it has a fan on it spin this fan and if it is hard to turn that means there is somthing stuck in the drain pump keep turning the fan and try to free whatever is stuck in the pump, then try the machine on spin again all goin well the object in the pump should come out with the drain water(doing this will not harm the machine) if the object is still stuck you will need to get the water out of the machine (bailing or siphioning will work) and tilt the machine back again and take the wires off the pump and there should be a white tab on the boul holding the pump on pull this tab and twist the pump anticlockwise about a quarter turn(you will need a few towels or a boul or bucket to catch the water) and it should come off exposing the blockage.
Hope this solves your Problem.
Nick
SOURCE: MW512 filling in spurts then goes to error.
it nneds a new Outer blance switch , cheap nd easy to fix
SOURCE: fisher & paykel washing machine fault codes
I have a Fisher & Paykel GW609AU Smartdrive Excellence 6.5 Washing Machine that would start then stop then start then stop a few more times before eventually beeping.
I fixed it by bypassing(joined the white and yellow wire) the trip out switch which is located under the control module(one screw to remove).Now it Works.
SOURCE: washing machine keeps tripping electric switch
Hiya,
there is a few things that will do this to your electics 1st & formost if your trip switch is tripping off remember this is a safty device to prevent fire so ignoring the problem & switching the power back on to try again could run the risk of fire!!
when the power trips you will need to know at what point in the wash this happens if its when the machine is emptying then it would be a pump issue if the machine is emptying no problem then the issue is more likely to be the motor either of which would need to be replaced if you are having these problems.
on rare ocasions you can spring a leak & if water gets on the electrics this will also trip the power but this is 1 of the least likely posabilatys.. rest assured if the power is tripping off then your home electrics are working fine & to confirm all sockets run from 1 main fuse all lights run from a second main fuse then there is a few other bits that run on there on fuses too i.e. cooker, power shower etc.. remember always get a qualified electrician to work on your electrics to ensure the job is carried out correctly
Hope this helps
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