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I found the valve you mentioned under a round black plastic cover on top of the unit, I took the to #30 torque bolts and removed the valve with a pair on needle nose pliers clean it out, However I still having problems with it. Did you get yours fixed.
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I have some original manuals for the model somewhere and the Kent-Moore service tool for adjusting the valve clearances. There isn't much information in my general data book but the flywheel bolts are 66 Nm.
The clutch cover bolts do have a torque value but I don't have it to hand and have never used it or heard of anyone using it. Good sense will suffice.
The important thing is to tighten the cover bolts a little at a time evenly until tension is felt and then it is sufficient to "knip" them a little further. There should be a spring washer under each cover bolt head and it is important they and the bolts are all identical
I just got done repairing the very same engine with the same syptoms that you mentioned. I had considerable oil coming out of the fuel pump breather hole (copper colored mesh). The source of the problem: a blown head gasket. This will cause the piston, in the compression cycle, to pressurize the crankcase through the head gasket leak into the valve lifter chamber and push oil out the vacuum tube (bottom hose) leading to the fuel filter . To fix, you will need to first disassemble the cylinder head from the engine. To do that you first need to disconnect the three hoses to the fuel pump. Remove the cover to the air filter, remove the air filter and the screw in the bottom of the filter housing. Remove the four bolts attaching the plastic flywheel cover and remove the cover., remove the cylinder head (8 bolts)and check the head gasket to confirm it is blown (you will probably see some dark brown or black discoloration of the head gasket between the cylinder and valve lifter chamber. Carefully remove all old head gasket material from the block and head surfaces and clean the head bolts. If either your cylinder head or block surface looks ugly, you may need to get them resurfaced (flatness tolerance is very small ) Buy a valve gasket set (contains the head gasket and other needed parts) Remove the valve rocker arm cover (4 bolts) from the head. Mark the exhaust and intake lifter rods (they are different) Clean the combustion chamber. If your engine has many hours on it, you will want to remove the valves and check the valve rims and seats for wear or pitting. You may want to hand lap the valves to insure they are seating perfectly. I coated my head bolts with an anti-sieze valve lube compound. The B&S service manual calls for this. Reassemble head and torque head bolts to 220 in.-lbs. (4 stages) Do very accurately. Compress valve springs, install push rods and set clearances between rocker arm and end of valve stem. Turn flywheel to move piston so that both valves are closed before setting clearances. install a new fuel pump on the plastic flywheel housing. I removed the breather from the top of the engine (two small screws) and checked the reed and oil drain hole, and resealed the breather cover (you will need to pull the flywheel to get to one of the breather screws. I used a gray high-temp rtv liquid gasket compound to reseal the rocker arm cover and breather body. Reassemble all parts and screws and use small torques as listed in Briggs Service manual. I put in a new spark plug, changed the oil and filter, and breather tube, and o-ring at the bottom of my oil filler tube. That should do it
First, insert the black plastic control valve all the way into the hole. Make sure that the rounded face with the cut in it is facing toward the tall part of the chamber/hole where you inserted the valve. Try to line up the dial with where the threads would enter the cut in the valve. Hint: the hole in the center of the dial will go over the tall part of the chamber wall. Once you believe you have it aligned correctly, replace the plastic body cover and keep the dial out of the body cover. Just put in the screw on the side the dial is on, so if it is not aligned properly, you can remove the cover more quickly. Once you have the body screwed down, screw the dial into the hole and it should align easily with the valve in the hole. If not, remove the body cover, and try to realign the valve again. Repeat until you get the dial to screw in easliy.
I just did this today because I had to fix a customer's unit. It took me about 20 minutes or so to figure it out, but I finally got it. I was hoping your question had an answer to it when I got on here, but at least I got it figured out anyway. Hope this helps! That is if you still have this unit...
the big round black plastic is part of the installation it will screw to the valve body thats the size of hole the black round cover is also backing plate to round external dress cover so be careful not much leway when cutting the center part should be knocked off but keep on to protect chrome escutcheon take off when applying handle also remember unit is shipped in cold position need to adjust hot water shipped in cold position because of anti-scald system
Just guessing, but it sounds like you are loosing pressure from the bearings.....If you had the crankshaft journals cut, or if they were slightly out of round to begin with, this can happen. Cutting removes material...the journals on most modern engines are too thin to do this (same weight saving idea that gave us rotors that you need to throw away) After cutting, they go egg shaped. Not cutting and starting with out of round condition will essentially give you the same problem but may take a bit longer to fail. Of course, check all clearances and sealing points, but I believe that's where you will find the problem.
what is plastic ? all there should be is a bowl , then small round gasket , then brass nut . if it doesnt go on you must have disturbed the bowl gasket ( black round )
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