How can I fix the edges of my laminator to seal.

https://officemachines.net/laminators/faqs.asp

Can you cut smaller shapes from this and have each individual item remain sealed? Answer: Yes, you can. With both self laminating and heat laminating sheets, as long as you have a border of sealed plastic at least a quarter of an inch wide completely around the item , moisture and dirt cannot get in.

use what is called laminating pouches
you put what you want laminated in the pouch, centre it so that the edges all have the same space, wait until the green light on the laminator appears and enter the pouch with the folded end in first.
It will slowly move through and seal off as it goes
make sure that the pouch is entered square to the rollers or it will crease the finished product or jam the laminator
there is no need for any additional equipment

for determining that more information is needed, especially what type, brand/manufacturer, what thickness, base and chemical base of it...

in most cases sealing laminate (especially printed laminate!) is bad idea. if this laminate is with wood overlay at the top, with thickness of at least 1.5mm (1/16") and not chamfered edges (for skilled craftsman - floor installer, even 1mm) , then you can use any type of floor paint on the top,

you will need to wear chemical mask if you use poly or any solvent based paint, mask will not be necessary if you use water based paint. during sealer process - you can keep windows open, but not during painting... open windows will cause ripple effect on the paint!

prepare floor in following method:
sand very lightly (matt only indeed) firstly whole area with #120 or even #150 mesh and then with scourer of #180 or #240, if possible use rotary, do not forget to do edges of the rooms! and especially corners...

if this is "bare" wood then:

1. use universal sealer, use good quality paintbrush (50mm - 2") on the edges and corners of the floor and use good quality long hair roller on broad area, sealer will dry up within half hour to 1hr, depending on temperature and humidity, after seal dry,
2. paint directly over prepared floor with appropriate paint, suitable to the sealer and your requirements.
3. after 24hrs, scour area again in method as above and then
4. strain the paint and paint final coat.
5. wait at least 24hrs before you step on the floor,
6. wait at least 5 to 7 days before moving furniture in, especially haevy items!
7. wait at least 30 days before you put rugs or mats on the floor

if this is pre-painted laminate and no damage to it, you skip point 1 and follow from point 2.

it is labour intensive process and albeit cut can be made in several days, paint must be done in single go! better if you have some assistance, one person doing the edges and one person rolling the paint. i do this sometime alone but usually one of the ta's will assist me... paint need to be applied rather thick in even motions no puddles and no bare bits left on the floor!

if you think about skipping cutting stage - DONT! - paint will start flaking and peeling away sometimes in few days or weeks, sometime after a year or so...

Exterior or interior? If they are on the exterior then something unassociated with the oven has caused them. If they are between sheets of glass then could be silacone fume residue or if it has a clear plastic filter on the inside of the glass, could be that. If they happen to use laminated glass, it could be the plastic middle but I doubt they would. Radiation leaking from microwave ovens is really a bit of a myth. Yes, if you have a damaged seal and there is a big enough gap, microwave radiation can leak out but unless you are hugging your oven, it's no real drama, according to current medical experts.

DO YOU HAVE THE DULL SIDE MEETING TOGETHER AND GOING THRU THE MACHINE

It's not you, it's the instructions. They are just wrong and will not work as directed. However, I have found a way to use these sheets that works for me, but it is still not particulary easy.

Step 1) Lay the 1st sheet on a flat surface, adhesive side up. Pressing down on the small 1/2" strip of backing, peel away the large backing sheet exposing the adhesive. Holding the sheet you want to laminate face down and at an angle to the work surface, carefully align the material by "bumping" it up against the edge of the 1/2 strip. Once aligned, carefully and gradually lay the item onto the adhesive. Like I said, not particularly easy, but if you are careful, it will work.

Step 2) If you want to double laminate, which I usually do, the second laminate sheet seems easier to me. Leave the Step 1 laying flat on the work surface. Take a second lamination sheet and again, hold it down on a flat surface and peel away the large backing sheet, leaving the small 1/2" backing attached. Take this 2nd sheet and holding it over the 1st, face down and angled up from the work surface, align the 1/2" strips of both sheets together and again carefully lay the 2nd sheet over the first single-laminated item. The two 1/2" strips don't stick to one another allowing a bit more flexibility for alignment.

Press all of this together and work out any bubbles or wrinkles. Once that is done, pry the two sheets apart at the very edge to remove the two 1/2 strips.

Unless you are incredibly lucky the edges will never align 100%. I use a paper-cutter to trim off any irregularities after I finish laminating.

Set- up
The only assembly required for an @Home laminator is attaching the wire support rack, which ensures that the sheets coming out of the machine cool in a flat position and do not curl. Using the illustration on the inside of the manual cover as a reference, push the ends of the rack " into the holes ! in the back of the machine as far as they will go.
Operation
Your laminator works by means of two rollers, one on top of the other, each turning in the opposite direction to draw a plastic, open-sided pouch coated with adhesives through them and out of the machine. Understanding this simple mechanism will help you decide what materials you can laminate without risk of damage to your machine. You can feel confident laminating all materials that are flat and dry, for example, but should avoid those that:
• Contain liquids, gels, or even moisture, that could escape
• May crumble or otherwise disperse under pressure, or
• Are likely to break, as could glass or rigid metals and plastics.
With hot lamination, where the rollers are also heated, make sure you don't put anything into the pouch that could melt and leak into the machine.
Once you have checked the suitability of your contents, you need to decide whether to use cold or hot lamination. Cold lamination, also called self-adhesive lamination, bonds materials between an adhesive and a non-adhesive sheet solely by means of pressure. As a result, this method tends not to produce as tight a seal against water and the elements as
hot lamination, but can be useful for heat-sensitive materials, such as thermal paper or fragile documents. While the cold method used to be the only good way to laminate photographs, today's heated-roller technology enables you to achieve excellent results and is therefore probably the better choice.
5
The contents and the mode decided, the next step is to choose the right pouch for the job.
Hot and cold laminating pouches are especially designed for their separate purposes and cannot be substituted for one another. When it comes to pouch size and thickness, you should make sure that the one you buy is no wider than the entry # of your model and not thicker, together with the contents, than the capacity of your machine. If you are laminating paper of a standard size and weight, you can quickly see your pouch thickness options on
the selection guide stored under the machine:
• White and gray boxes indicate that the pouch/paper combination can be used
• No box on the table indicates that there is no combination possible with your machine.
If you find several pouch options for your document, take the one that best suits the purpose:
The thicker the pouch, the more rigid and resistant the laminated sheet will be. If you are not sure of the paper's weight or are laminating other materials, the combined thickness of the pouch and contents should be your guide. The maximum in this case is the equivalent of a stack of 6 to 7 sheets of standard office paper. (See Product Profile for details on capacity limits.)
If even the smallest size pouch will leave a lot of space around your contents or you want the lamination to conform to the shape of your contents, wait to cut it to size until after lamination: a laminating pouch is precision-cut to ensure minimal leakage of adhesives, and this cannot be replicated with scissors or a paper-cutter. You'll also find the pouch easier to cut when it is hardened.
How you arrange your contents in the selected pouch is important in both cold and hot modes. To produce professional-looking results and ensure a long working life for your machine, follow these simple guidelines (see illustration on the inside of the manual cover):
1. Lay contents as close as possible to the sealed edge of the pouch, which is the end you will be feeding into the machine. If the material is more than 1 cm or 1/2 inch from this edge, the rollers will not have enough traction to draw in the pouch and will turn continuously without advancing it.
2. Arrange multiple items close to each other in the pouch, with the edges no farther than 1 cm or 1/2 inch apart. If there is a larger gap between items, the rollers will slip into it and lose their traction. As above, the rollers will turn without advancing the pouch.
3. Leave a free margin around contents of at least 3 mm, or 1/8 inch, on the three unsealed sides of the pouch to guarantee a strong seal. This is a minimum, meaning you can have as much margin beyond this as you wish.
To begin laminating, place your machine on a work surface where you have enough room at the back to allow the full length of the pouch to clear the material exit '. Plug in the machine and press the power button &, which will start the rollers turning. If you plan to do laminate both cold and hot in one session, it makes sense to start with cold, so you don't have to wait for the machine to cool down. (This can take one to two hours.)
In either case, to save energy and reduce wear-and-tear on your machine, turn off the machine as soon as you are finished by pressing the power button &. If you forget, however, the machine has an automatic switch-off function, which causes it to turn itself off one hour after not being used.Cold Lamination
With the contents and the pouch you have selected at hand:
1. Turn temperature selector $ to . The machine will indicate its readiness by turning on
the green standby light % and giving an audible signal.
If the machine is at room temperature, this will be almost immediate.
2. Place contents in pouch in line with the guidelines (p. 5). Lay the pouch on a flat surfaceand open it so that the adhesive side, which is covered by a glossy protective sheet, is vertical.Place the contents face up onto the transparent, non-adhesive side, but do not closethe pouch.
3. Insert sealed edge of the open pouch into the entry, as
shown, bending the protective sheet backwards over the
machine and grasping its free edge. As the machine draws
in the pouch, keep holding on to the protector, which will be
peeled away from the adhesive side as the pouch moves
through. Although it is easier to take off the protector and
close the pouch before you feed it in, you will create air bubbles
and other irregularities that the machine will not be able
to even out.
The finished sheet will emerge from the material exit ' by itself. Remove it from the support
rack only after it has completely cleared the exit.
Hot lamination
With the contents and the pouch you have selected at hand:
1. Turn temperature selector $ to or . The boxes in the selection guide you used to
choose the pouch size and thickness also indicate what temperature setting you should use
with your pouch:
• If the box is white, use ,
• If the box is gray, use .
If you are not sure of the weight or thickness of the contents or pouch, you will avoid possible
damage if you start with the lower temperature. With the lower setting, the machine will take 5 minutes to warm up and with the higher, one minute longer. When the laminator has reached the setting you chose, it will indicate its readiness with a green standby light % and an audible signal.
2. Place contents in pouch in line with the guidelines (p. 5).
Unlike with cold laminating, the contents can be face down or up within the pouch. Close the pouch once the contents are arranged.
3. Insert sealed edge of the closed pouch into the entry #,
as shown, and release it as soon as the machine begins
to drawn it in, as shown in the illustration.
The finished sheet will emerge from the material exit ' by
itself. Remove it from the support rack only after it has completely cleared the exit.
7
Maintenance
To keep your laminator free of adhesives that could hurt the quality of your work, you should clean the rollers from time to time, or frequently, depending on how often you use the machine. The best way is to do this right after you have finished hot laminating, because the rollers will still be hot, which is necessary for the cleaning process.
To clean the rollers:
• Turn selector to if it is not already on this setting
• Wait for the readiness light and signal
• Insert the cleaning sheet included in the package, repeating one or two times
• Insert a plain white sheet of paper to test for remaining traces, and
• Reinsert the cleaning sheet, if necessary, and retest.
To clean the exterior of your machine, just wipe with a soft cloth dampened with plain water.

its ok to cut the laminate using the wood saw to fix the new one.be careful to cut the laminate.

i know have to ck myself on those sometimes the stitch closest to the edge of the seal goes toward center of drum..you will also have to stretch the seal around edge of drum 4 hands make it easier