Hobart dish machine. We were told by Ecolab tech that we need to rinse off all presoak, soaps and sanitizers before passing through the maching as they cause foaming/excess suds. I do not find that info anywhere. True? Though I would assume soap will of course.

This is a low temperature machine. So detegent and sanitizer go in together and the rinse aid goes in at the rinse cycle. At the lines in the right containers. It is pulling sanitizer at the rinse cycle?

Page 11 of the manual leads me to belive it may be priming. Do you have non return valves in the lines of all the product? Your lines should be full of chemical all the time with no air spaces.

https://www.hobart.com.mx/pdf/ManualOper/F38404%20man.pdf

Your detergent supplier, Hobart, Ecolab, Diversey will often help with issues like this for no charge. Don't let them play with metering though. That is an old trick to get the salemen more sales. ;>)
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Here are some questions that may help.
1) Is the water hot enough? Since the soap "melts" better at higher temperatures, cooler water can leave a soap film.
2) Are the dishes clean before you run the machine? We like to used the dishwasher to "sanitize" the dishes, so we rinse them really good before washing them, to get off caked food residue.
3) Try changing washer soap, try powder if you used liquid, or visa-versa, and try less quantity and see if any of those help.
God bless your efforts.

That's true. excess of foam can cause poor wash pressure and poor final rinse.

Operation manual , pag.24. (F17791Rv02-06.pdf)
DO NOT exceed chemical manufacturer's recommended concentrations for detergent, sanitizer, rinse aid or lime scale remover.

Contact your local chemical supplier such as EcoLab or AutoChlor to purchase the proper chemicals. Use ONLY commercal dish washing chemicals. Residential detergents like Cascade do not dissolve fast enough and WILL, in time, cause you trouble if used in the LXi.

There should be three colored plastic tubes at the rear of your machine. Red is to be put in a container of liquid detergent, Blue is for rinse aid, and white/clear is for sanitizer. Your chemical salesman should be able to show you how it's done at no charge.

You may also want to register here http://www.hobartservice.com/Manuals/ then download the manuals for the LXi dish machine.

All the best.

no, no home d/w will ever sanitize dishes, to sannitize dishes the rinse water has to be @180 degrees or above , only 1 d/w had that capability which was the old kitchenaidmod. which hobart produced for them

It sounds like the pump is gummed up and needs to be removed, disassembled and cleaned.

Look on the top edge of the door to find the data plate. It sounds like an SR24, if the leds are on the left of two temp gauges. If your sanitizer pump has a tired silicone tube that is flattened from use, it will not draw chemical. if you have an air bubble in the sense board at the back, it will think you have run out. If you have changed the type of chemical or diluted it, the board will need recalibrating to suit. Put some sanitizer in a small vessel with the pickup tube and monitor the amount delivered. Usually one is looking for 50 ppm solution of bleach and rinse water.( test with litmus paper) If you have an SR24H with a booster, you don't need bleach sanitizer and holding the sanitizer button will turn the sense off.

The D-8 is a great D/W and is in fact a full use D/W if you call Ecolab,Diversey or whatever chemical agent you use they can install an automatic soap system on this machine with no trouble

service gnome

what temp is it washing at. washing should not be the problem. This machine is designed to rinse at 180 degrees + to sanitize dishes. The machine could be converted to a chemical sanitize, it would use bleach in the rinse water instead of 180 degree water to sanitize.

I'm not sure I'm comfortable with the direction your seller is leading you. I assume this machine is installed in some type of place where you are serving food to the public. If this is the case, then the local health inspector will expect to see a wash tank temp of 150F-165F and a rinse temp of 180F-195F.
With a wash temp of 170F, you risk a health violation for over-temps and this can also cause so food soils to get "baked" onto the wares. With a rinse temp of 170F the health violation is under-temp and you likely will not have good sheeting/drying action on the glasses, leading to a spotting issue.
Hobart sells this machine with an "optional" kit for external chemical dispensing, but if you have the base-model (which it sounds like you do) it does not come with any type of ports for chemical injection. If you are truley concerned about consistent, pleasing results, ie clean dishes, no spots, etc. Then it would be my advice to have Hobart install this kit, and then contact a local chemical supplier for proper chemistry (a detergent and a rinse additive) and balancing of the machine. Most chemical companies do not charge for installing their needed dispensers onto your machine, and do not charge for service calls. They only charge for the chemicals you use. I have a personal preference towards Ecolab, but that's just me...
If I am way off on this, meaning you're not serving to the public (just your family) and a health inspector would never see this machine, then just get some cascade and call it good...
I hope this helps and please let me know if I can be of any further assistance,
Kermit