I have a Mitsubishi WD 60738 and the stand by light on the front of the tv was staying on and was orange. I removed the power supply and blew out all the dust and reinstalled the power supply and now the stand by light just blinks green. The fan doesn't come on at all. I have put a new bulb in also. There is no picture at all on the screen.

SOURCE: MIT WD-62525 DLP TV blinking green light on front won't stop

Hi!

It means your TV needs to reset. Although you have reset it previously, now again reset the TV as per procedure given below:

Please press the SYSTEM RESET button on the front panel with a pointed item such as the point of a ball point pen or end tip of a paperclip.

The TV will turn off and the green LED will flash quickly for about one minute. After the green LED stops flashing, turn on the TV again. The changes you made while the TV was most recently on, before you used the SYSTEM RESET button, may be lost; the changes you made previously, however, are not lost. Only those changes since the last power on may be lost when the system reset button is pressed. All other settings are retained.

TV Reset Menu

Read on-screen warnings before proceeding, as some user data or settings may be erased.

1. Press TV MENU and then 1, 2, 3 to see the RESET SERVICE MENU to reset the TV.

2. Select Reset System Defaults (CAUTION: All settings, except V-Chip, will be reset to the original factory defaults.

Please do rate this solution as FixYa and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

SOURCE: mitsubishi wd-62825 dlp

The WD62825 has a Digital Module located on the left side of the chassis looking at it from the rear of the set. It's housed in a metal box that can slide out of its holder after removing the trim screws.
The module has its own power supply board and there are a group of 16v/1000uf caps on that board which commonly fail causing the constant flashing standby light. Further back on the module is a small board about the size of a matchbook called the E2P module. Its SMT (Surface Mount Technology) caps also commonly fail which can cause the same symptoms. Techs can tell whether the E2P has failed by simply removing it, hooking the DM back up and trying to power the set. If it powers on the picture won't be much good - but at least you can tell what's keeping it down...
Back to the caps on the pwr board. If they've failed they usually will buldge visibly on top. And ESR is almost not necessary. In any event that's the nuts and bolts on this model.
Is it a job for a layman? Yes and no - you might strongly consider a tech if you don't feel comfortable removing all the connections that the DM has with the signal board. There are about six - multi-pin - wired connections to unplug and then sliding the DM out of the unit and carefully removing the screws and latching to take the DM top cover off...
Hope this helps.
Bill

SOURCE: Power/Standby light blinks green then screen goes blank (off) for

I have a similar problem. Just found out a possible solution yesterday. I am waiting for my lamp but here's what you need to do if you have replaced your lamp. Go into self diagnostics mode: Switch of your TV via remote, you will see red standy by light. Now,on the remote press "Display"=>"Channel 5"=>"Volume Up"=>"Power Button". All these keys need to be pressed within 3 seconds. You will now enter the diagnostics mode. Press "Jump" on remote (bottom right) 3 times and then press "Channel 2" 9 times. The screen will display your current lamp hours used.

In order to reset your tv to factory settings and for the new bulb to work you must reset this timer or else your TV will assume you are still using the old bulb and will automatically kick in "over protection mode". So here's what you do once you do on the lamp hours display screen. Press the "Channel 3" button on the remote 3 times then "Mute" then "Press Enter" to reset the timer to zero. Your TV should now work as normal. And remember, whenever a part is replaced all factory settings must be reset to zero. To do this, follow "Display"=>"Channel 5"=>"Volume Up"=> "Power Up" to enter service mode. Finally, press "Channel 8" and then "Enter" to put the TV back to factory settings.

The above mentioned is usually performed by a service technician and they charge somewhere around $95 diagnostic fee. You just saved this charge. If you see flashing red lights count them when they flash in sequence. This is a code for the techs to tell them what is wrong. These flashing red lights sequentially flash from 0 to 10 times to identify a problem. Usually, when the bbulb goes bad the only thing that might need to be replaced would be a "lamp Driver" aka "Power Block Assembly" $116.25 online from Sony, or the ballast. Sometimes, if you do not have a video a Thermal FUse can go bad which only costs $4.80 for the KDF60-XS955 but the techs will charge you over $300. You can do this yourself if you can get your hands on a service manual.

Hope this info helps.

Good Luck to you all.

SOURCE: I have a Mitsubishi WDC657 with a bulb that blew

I have the same tv (mitsubishi WD-C657 from Costco) with the same problem. (When turned off the lamp light is red, and when powered on the screen stays black but I hear white noise) Before I order a new lamp I want to make sure that this is the correct fix. If anyone knows the correct fix please email it to me at [email protected] =)

SOURCE: Mitsubishi wd 65733: new bulb, 1 month ago, worked

The only thing that could cause the yellow light to blink after the new lamp is that the lamp lid or access door is not placed correctly or there might be some debris between the door and the door seat to where the door sensor switch is not being activated or the switch is erratic. Try using some compressed air to clean the switch and the door seat, that might do it for you. Thanks!