My Hotpoint RB757EH 5BB electric range started a high pitch beep with the error "Bad Line" flashing on the screen.

If your Hotpoint stove is beeping and displaying a "bad line" error, it could be indicating a problem with the electrical connection to the stove. Here are some things you can try to stop the beeping and resolve the error:

1. Check the power cord for any damage or fraying. If the cord is damaged, it should be replaced.
2. Make sure that the electrical outlet is functioning properly. Test it with another appliance to ensure that it is providing power.
3. Check the circuit breaker or fuse for the stove. Make sure that it has not tripped or blown.
4. Make sure that the stove is properly grounded. This may require a professional electrician.
5. If the error message continues to appear, the problem might be with the stove's internal wiring and it would be best to contact a Hotpoint service agent, who can inspect the stove and determine the cause of the problem.

"bad line" error means the control panel is not seeing a proper voltage to the oven. Have the power connections checked with a voltmeter all the way to the control panel. If voltage is present, you may need a new control.

Hello,

The screen is blank with no raster at all. There are indications that the channel numbers are changing in the display. This indicates that some of the low voltages are present but these may be derived from the standby supply.
Assuming there is no deflection and no High Voltage, you either have a low voltage power supply problem, bad start up circuit, or bad horizontal output transistor (HOT) or other bad parts in the horizontal deflection.

Check for bad fuses.

(If you have High Voltage as indicated by static electricity on the front of the screen and you hear the high pitched whine of the horizontal deflection when it is turned on, then the following does not apply).

Use an ohmmeter to test the HOT for shorts. If it is bad, look for open fusable resistors or other fuses you did not catch.
Assuming it is good, measure the voltage on the collector-emitter of the HOT (this is safe if there is no deflection). You should see the B+ - probably between 100 and 150 V.
If there is no voltage, you have a low voltage power supply problem and/or you have not found all the bad/open parts.
If there is voltage and no deflection (no high pitched whine and no HIGH VOLTAGE), you probably have a start up problem - all TVs need some kind of circuit to kick start the horizontal deflection until the auxiliary power outputs of the flyback are available. Some Zeniths use a simple multivibrator for this - a couple of transistors. Others power the horizontal osc. IC from a special line-derived voltage. The multivibrator type are sometimes designed to fail if someone keeps turning the set on and off (like kids playing) since the power rating is inadequate.
Test the transistors if it is that type with an ohmmeter. If one is shorted, you have a problem. The usual way a TV service person would test for start up problems is to inject a signal to the base of the HOT of about 15.75 kHz. If the TV then starts and runs once this signal is removed, the diagnosis is confirmed. This is risky - you can blow things up if not careful (including yourself).

If you hear the high pitched whine of the deflection and/or feel some static on the scree, confirm that the horizontal deflection and high voltage are working by adjusting the SCREEN control (probably on the flyback). If you can get a raster then your problem is probably in the video or chroma circuits, not the deflection or high voltage.

hope this helps......

Either have bad temperature sensor or a bad control. Sensor is cheap, so replace it first and see.

Hello,

The screen is blank with no raster at all. There are indications that the channel numbers are changing in the display. This indicates that some of the low voltages are present but these may be derived from the standby supply.

Assuming there is no deflection and no High Voltage , you either have a low voltage power supply problem, bad startup circuit, or bad horizontal output transistor (HOT) or other bad parts in the horizontal deflection.

Check for bad fuses.

(If you have High Voltage as indicated by static electricity on the front of the screen and you hear the high pitched whine of the horizontal deflection when it is turned on, then the following does not apply).

Use an ohmmeter to test the HOT for shorts. If it is bad, look for open fusable resistors or other fuses you did not catch.

Assuming it is good, measure the voltage on the collector-emitter of the HOT (this is safe if there is no deflection). You should see the B+ - probably between 100 and 150 V.

If there is no voltage, you have a low voltage power supply problem and/or you have not found all the bad/open parts.

If there is voltage and no deflection (no high pitched whine and no High Voltage), you probably have a startup problem - all TVs need some kind of circuit to kick start the horizontal deflection until the auxiliary power outputs of the flyback are available. Some Zeniths use a simple multivibrator for this - a couple of transistors. Others power the horizontal osillator. IC from a special line-derived voltage. The multivibrator type are sometimes designed to fail if someone keeps turning the set on and off (like kids playing) since the power rating is inadequate.

Test the transistors if it is that type with an ohmmeter. If one is shorted, you have a problem. The usual way a TV service person would test for startup problems is to inject a signal to the base of the HOT of about 15.75 kHz. If the TV then starts and runs once this signal is removed, the diagnosis is confirmed. This is risky - you can blow things up if not careful (including yourself). See the section: Bypassing the Startup Circuit for details.

If you hear the high pitched whine of the deflection and/or feel some static on the scree, confirm that the horizontal deflection and high voltage are working by adjusting the SCREEN control (probably on the flyback). If you can get a raster then your problem is probably in the video or chroma circuits, not the deflection or high voltage.
Hope this help

An F-1 error code on your model means the element was energized when it should not have been, A shorted interconnect harness or failed power relay board.

A probe indication could be a failed meat probe jack or bad harness in a unit that has one. In a unit without a meat probe, suspect a bad board.

Both conditions would warrant bringing in a tech.

Before you do, turn off the circuit breaker fot 3 miutes and turn it back on. This will reboot the boards. If problem persists, the call a service tech.

Obviously it does not work fine. The thermostat sensor or the stat itself could be an issue. Can you see the sensor 'bulb'? Clean it with oven degreaser and steelwool. What is the temp in the oven with a 'oven thermometer'? Is this consistent with the oven readout?

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

most likly it's a problem in the electrical going to the stove call an electrician

Take a flat head screw driver and gently pretty the door. The temp decreases fairly rapidly and then the lock is disabled. Good luck!

I found the solution. The mercury light (according to my land lord) has crude and build up on it. This was located beneath the oven in the broiler. When it was cleaned the ringing stopped.