How to replace front axles on husquvana riding mower?

Graeme, usually you remove the rubber/plastic axle/hub cap, jack mower up and secure from falling, next remove retaing clip( C clip, cotter pin, etc), and washer, slide wheel off. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, could not find your model, Good luck
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Changing Front Tire on The Craftsman
Removing Wheel from Riding Mower
http://support.mtdproducts.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/203/~/wheel-removal---riding-mower

Craftsman makes a wonderful mower for the money. I've had 2. Until a couple years ago, however, they all had a huge problem - the front axles on these mowers were not cast-iron like the better, more expensive mowers. Accordingly, if you did something to put the front wheels/axle in a serious bind (like catch a tire on a good size rock or building corner with the wheels turned and while backing up and looking backwards), you may have seriously damaged the front axle. Sometimes that can be corrected with placing bushings in there if it's not too bad, but from what you describe it sounds like you've blown up the front axle. That's why your front wheels are going in different directions. Next thing: awful noises and inability to steer properly. I blew out front axles on 2 Craftsman mowers and repaired each of them before buying machines with cast-iron axles - Cub Cadet, John Deere. As I recall, about $235 each time.Got tired of it! The good news is that now Craftsman is putting cast -iron axles on most all of their higher end tractors. You'll need to have this done professionally if you want to keep or sell the machine. Then, go with a good, strong cast-iron axle. You can't adjust this problem. Sorry, friend. . .

I have worked on SO many lawn tractors over the years so I feel comfortable telling you this is probably normal. These aren't precision machines, they're stamped metal decks and mostly plastic machines so there won't be adjustments like your car or a commercial machine might have. There may be one or even one tie rod adjustment for each side, but these are all built with a price point in mind as well as the idea that they are big, cumbersome, not easily controlled, imprecise machines so they're designed to have a high positive camber, (the tops of the wheels angle out farther than the bottoms,) and a LARGE amount of toe-in, (the fronts of the wheels point in at eachother), to assist in maneuvering these cheap hunks of Chinese quality. I really wouldn't worry about it, just get the wheel as centered and straight as possible, anything as far as toe or camber past an inch I'd worry about something being bent MAYBE or jut out of "alignment" but if they, when sitting still, are all approximately less than an inch in either of these directions and close to some sort of symmetry, then that's just normal and these other posters are just making you more worried than you need to be. These tractors support their weight, a close to 90lb engine, your weight, are rear wheel drive, have to move and cut grass simultaneously, AND steer, so the geometry is pretty exadderated to make turning and maneuvering easier. This is why they come with steering wheels

Usually there is a spring clip on the axle. These little clips fit in a groove on the axle and are not very noticable. Look up circle clip. A screw driver (fairly large for a mower) can be used to slide them away from the axle. You may have to pull (tap) the wheel to get it off the axle as the last bit of axle sometimes develops some rust and the wheel does not want to slide off freely.

Sounds like you got a Murray, Yardman, etc. Steering system is of very poor quality. Front axle has plastic bushing on spindles they break and don't take much abuse. Spindles bend very easy and so with these conditions steering becomes hard and unpleasant. Front axles are not there strong point. Jack up front of mower and check for loose, sloppy wheel conditions. Go from there. New bushings and parts are available at varies places. Best repair would be to think about a mower with a strong front axle. Cast iron, steel etc, rather than a stamped out thin metal one that will always give you problems. Who doesn't bump trees, curbs, yard ornaments etc.

Front axle middle of axle, a plug there. Front wheels hub. On outside of wheel, a plug there. Transmission, back of tractor. Sight glass, upper level.

Jill,

If the tire has a hole have you considered a Plug?

If thats not an option before you can pull the tire off, there should be a small snap ring holding it in place. please use blocks to block the tires and do the following.

Park the lawn mower on a level surface, then place the wheel chocks in front and behind the rear tires.

2Place the jack under the frame at the front of the mower. Raise the mower up and place the jack stands under each side of the frame. Lower the jack until the mower frame sits firmly on the jack stands

3Remove the plastic cap in the center of the wheel by hand; this should expose the snap ring holding the wheel to the axle.

4Pry the snap ring off the axle with the flathead screwdriver. Slide off the washer, wheel and the shim washers from the axle.

To replace tire follow steps 3 and 4 in reverse order. place shim washers back on and then wheel and then snap ring, etc...

hope this helps

1) there are also bushings which hold the axle assembly into the front cross member, take a look at those.
2) while you are at it, replace the front wheel bearings on both sides

It sure can be. I once was mowing and had the whole front axle come off and I almost ran over it.

You need to replace your Ball Joints! On the front steering rods There are two sometimes three !