Hi, I have a hotpoint wma48 washing machine that is leaking water and I'm not sure from where or how. I immediately changed the door seal but the problem persists and water appears to be coming from the soap tray too, a significant amount. The leaks seem to occur in the final spin cycle, there is a loud audible knocking noise and the front of the machine flexes in and out around the door. If this does occur the cycle will never finish after it has stopped spinning and the door will remain locked. This has got me stumped! Could it be a problem with the outlet valve? Is there some kind of pressure build up inside the machine??

SOURCE: Hotpoint Ultima WMA61 loud knocking noise in spin cycle

Hello I think that the drum bearings have gone on the machine..

To open the door and spin the empty drum quickly by hand and you should hear the noise or say a less amplifed one.. Also another way to check is to move the inner durm up and down to see if there is any play in it..

If you need any further advice then dont hesistate to ask....

Darren Moxam

• 67 Answers
• Posted on Mar 07, 2008

SOURCE: Hotpoint Ultima WT965 - Water gushing out from door and soap drawer

you have a blocked filter, unplug from mains, take off back panel you will see a black sump hose coming from the tub to the pump, tilt the machine forward and put a dish or bowl under sump unscrew clamp and pull off slowly to release any water in the drum. You will find a blockage, also what appears to be a ping pong ball dont throw away it is meant to be there.

SOURCE: loud noise at end of spin cycle

The most common cause of the symptom you are describing is a bad drive block which has probably ruined your basket drive as well. Let me give a quick explination. The weight of the basket you put your clothes in is supported entirely in the center of the washer underneath your agitator. It rests on an aluminum block called your drive block. So that the basket will move back and forth while the washer agitates, there are two tabs on the drive block that lock your basket drive underneath in place. Once the drive block wears out or round down these tabs, the basket will raise slightly and "skip" across the top when the spin cyle is stopped. To verify this, you can check one of two things. First (and easiest) is put a heavy, large load in the washer, get it wet then spin it out. Once the washer reaches the maximum spin speed, open the lid. The washer should snap to a halt when functioning properly. What I belive you'll find is that even with the lid open, the basket will continue to spin. The other method to verify this is take the top of the agitator off. Next remove the bolt in the middle of the agitator and lift the agitator off. In the middle, you should find a large flat metal colored nut.In the middle of that nut, you should see two tabs across from one another. There should be two straight pieces of metal coming up from the bottom which have nice, straight sharp corners. Again, if I am correct, you will find they have been rounded off and there may even be shavings of metal visable.
To replace a basket drive and drive block, you will need to purchase the parts and also a specialty tool from removal and instalation. These will probably run you around 125-175. If you are interested in giving it a go, reply back to me and I will get you some step-by-stpe instructions typed up.

SOURCE: During the final spin cycle, water is leaking inside the machine

You have a problem with the pressure switch cutting in too early before all of the water has drained away from the outer drum

There is either an obstruction in the outlet pipe or pump which is not allowing the water to discharge fast enough.

The machine is then spinning with too much water left in the outer drum added to the water which is being expelled from the clothes equals leaking

Take the hose off the back of the machine and put it in a sink , make sure it is secure and do a rinse cycle

Watch the outlet and make sure it is a strong flow if it is weak then you have probably got an item of clothing stuck in the pipe from the drum to the pump and a strip down is required

One more thing there is a small plastic bottle attached to the back of the outer drum this has tube which leads to the pressure switch

Make sure there is no congealed soap in the Air Bell as it is called

SOURCE: water leaks during final spin cycle only

Hi,
The first thing to do is get the machine up off the floor onto a base that allows you to slide under machine on your back with a flash light. Make sure whatever you decide to lift machine up onto is very stable and durable. Bricks, blocks, or a utility cart maybe. You need to look under machine to see where the leak is coming from. You want to make sure it is not going to fall on you. The machine is not that heavy, just awkward to lift or move because of it's size. So, you could slide something under each corner, one at a time, or ask a friend to help lift it onto a base. Now you are ready to go. Don't worry, this is really easy.
Get a towel, flashlight, and start machine on a small load with shortest cycle set.(probably delicate). After you start machine, slide under and and try to find where water is leaking from. The pump is going to be a plastic circular shape thing with ridges on outside. Probably dead front center and attached to motor. If water is leaking anywhere from plastic circle thing, then this is your problem. BUT, also follow all the black hoses that are under machine. Sometimes leak can be a cracked hose or loose attachment. That is real cheap and easy. The hoses are attached with metal ring deals. You take a pair of channel locks or big pliers and squeeze them to open. There are 2 or 3 hoses that attach to pump that will need to be removed if this is where leak is coming from. Then, the pump is only attached with metal clips that you pull out to release pump from motor. No tools needed. Take the pump to sears or local appliance shop and I guarantee they will have replacement.
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