Gas fireplace won't fire up, LEDs flash out Primary and Secondary Limit switch problem, I checked them with meter, they are always open, never close when I try to run the furnace, I did notice that the blower (the one inside the burn chamber) stops spinning, and when it does spin, seems kind of slow...

On - OK
1 Blink - Ignition failure. Check Gas flow, gas pressure, gas valve, flame sensor.
2 Blinks - Closed pressure switch. Check pressure switch (stuck in closed position).
3 Blinks - Pressure switch - failre to close. Check venter, pressure switch, vent blockage.
4 Blinks - Open limit switch. Main limit or aux limit are open. (My comment - Means overheating in chamber. Often result of blocked intake air. Bad filter. In my case, plastic wrap had been sucked into the intake. )
6 Blinks - False flame sensed. Check sticking gas valve.
Rapid continuous blinking - Incorrect twinning, incorrect primary polarity. Reverse transformer secondary leads, reverse primary wires.

Closed pressure switch can be from dirty combustion vents, bad chamber pressure - like missing screws, maladjusted gas pressure, failing pressure switch, loose hoses, moisture in the hoses or fan blades The switch need to be closed to ge the unit to work

usually the main blower runs non stop when limit circuit opens. Shut off the power and check each limit with the wires removed. Use your meter, check the same way as you would check a fuse. Sometimes you can tap on the main limit to reset it. Some secondary limits have a small plastic reset button in between the wires. Check this also.

A limit switch opens when the heat exchanger gets too hot. To check the switch with a meter turn the power to the furnace off, then disconnect the wires from the switch and set a meter to resistance, if the switch is open the meter will indicate infinite resisitance. There are several reasons why a limit switch opens and some of those reasons are
1) dirty air filter
2) the gas pressure on the gas valve is set too high
3) a problem with the blower motor

Not for sure what you have, but if you just purchased the house, there might be air in the gas lines. If it sat vacant and the gas was off, or if they has swapped meters/worked on gas lines? Try cycling the fireplace several times. Or look around for a small door opening or if it's mounted to the exterior wall, look outside for the supply line in. If you do find a valve in the closed position, be aware of the fact that it may be off due to a reason, and you may want a plumber/fire place tech to service it.

Apply power to the inducer motor, or check the voltage to it first.a relay or circuit board will control its operation, if the inducers not running, the pressure switch wont close and no operation .

the furnace is detecting that there is not enough air flow thru the heat exchanger ... that could be a blocked filter, air intake or closed registers or ductwork .. or the primary or secondary sensor could be disconnected or defective .. since you already changed the primary check the secondary to see if its open .. make sure air is flowing freely thu the system

here is a toll free number (for US) to get help
1 877 254 4729
or
[email protected]

some very good mauals here
http://www.acwholesalers.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=11146&Show=ExtInfo

"install instructions.pdf" explain error codes on page 36

you need acrobat reader (free) or foxit reader (free) to read these manuals ..

Here is the first half of the codes look till you find the one you have
111 System PASS.
112 ACT sensor circuit grounded.
113 ACT sensor circuit open.
114 ACT sensor is out of Self-Test.
116 ECT sensor is out of Self-Test.
117 ECT sensor circuit grounded.
118 ECT sensor circuit open.
121 TP sensor is out of Self-Test.
122 TP sensor input is less than Self-Test minimum.
123 TP sensor input is greater than Self-Test maximum.
124 TP sensor input voltage is greater than expected.
125 TP sensor input voltage is less than expected.
128 MAP vacuum hose damaged or disconnected.
129 Insufficient MAF input.
136 HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean (Right HEGO).
137 HEGO sensor circuit indicates system rich (Right HEGO).
139 No HEGO switching (Front Side).
141 Fuel system indicates lean.
144 No HEGO switching (Left Side).
157 MAF sensor circuit open.
158 MAF sensor shorted to power.
159 MAF sensor is out of Self-Test.
167 Insufficient TP input change.
171 Lack of HEGO switching (Rear Side).
172 HEGO sensor circuit indicates lean. (Rear Side).
173 HEGO sensor circuit indicates rich. (Rear Side).
174 Check for diluted engine oil.
175 Lack of HEGO switching (Front Side).
176 HEGO sensor circuit indicates lean. (Front Side).
177 HEGO sensor circuit indicates rich. (Front Side).
178 Check for diluted engine oil.
179 Fuel system at part throttle lean adaptive limit, system rich (Rear Side).
181 Fuel system at part throttle rich adaptive limit, system lean (Rear Side).
182 Fuel system at idle lean adaptive limit, system rich (Rear Side).
183 Fuel system at idle rich adaptive limit, system lean (Rear Side).
184 MAF sensor input voltage is greater than expected, in range.
185 MAF sensor input voltage is less than expected, in range.
186 Closed loop injector pulse width longer than expected.
187 Closed loop injector pulse width shorter than expected.
188 Fuel system at part throttle lean adaptive limit, system rich (Front Side).
189 Fuel system at part throttle rich adaptive limit, system lean (Front Side).
193 Flexible Fuel sensor circuit failure.
211 PIP circuit failure.
212 Loss of tachometer/IDM input.
213 EEC SPOUT circuit open.
214 CID circuit failure.
215 PCM detected coil 1 primary circuit failure.
216 PCM detected coil 2 primary circuit failure.
217 PCM detected coil 3 primary circuit failure.
218 Loss of ignition diagnostic monitor signal-left side.
219 Spark timing defaulted to 10 degrees, spark output circuit open.
221 Spark timing error.
222 Loss of ignition diagnostic monitor signal-right side.
223 Loss of dual plug inhibit control.
224 PCM detected coil 1, 2, 3 or 4 primary circuit failure.
225 Knock not sensed during dynamic response test KOER.
226 Ignition diagnostic monitor signal not received.
232 PCM detected coil 1, 2, 3 or 4 primary circuit failure.
238 PCM detected coil 4 primary circuit failure.
241 Ignition control module to PCM ignition diagnostic monitor pulse width transmission error.
244 Cylinder Identification circuit fault present when cylinder balance test requested.
311 Secondary air injection system inoperative during KOER self-test (bank #1).
312 Secondary air injection system misdirected during KOER self-test.
313 Secondary air injection system not bypassed during KOER self-test.
314 Secondary air injection system inoperative during KOER self-test (bank #2)
326 PFE sensor circuit voltage lower than expected.
327 PFE sensor circuit voltage below Self-Test minimum.
328 Exhaust gas recirculation valve position sensor closed voltage lower than expected.
332 Insufficient EGR flow.
334 Exhaust gas recirculation valve position sensor closed voltage higher than expected.
335 PFE sensor circuit voltage out of Self-Test range.
336 PFE sensor circuit voltage higher than expected.
337 PFE sensor circuit voltage above Self-Test maximum.
338 Engine coolant temperature lower than expected (thermostat test).
339 Engine coolant temperature higher than expected (thermostat test).
341 Octane adjust service pin open.
381 Frequent A/C clutch cycling.
411 Cannot control RPM during KOER low RPM check.
412 Cannot control RPM during KOER high RPM check.
415 Idle Air Control system at maximum adaptive lower limit.
416 Idle Air Control system at upper adaptive learning limit.
452 Insufficient input from VSS.
453 Servo leaking down.
454 Servo leaking.
455 Insufficient RPM increase.
456 Insufficient RPM decrease.
457 Speed control command switch(s) circuit not functioning.
458 Speed control command switch(s) stuck/circuit grounded.
459 Speed control ground circuit open.

I am assuming your bike is stock, or close to it. In 1974, all h-d's used a battery coil ignition with wasted spark. Battery positive flows from the ignition switch to the coil, through the coil primary winding to the points, then open or shorted to negative (through the chassis) depending on the points being open or closed. When the engine is turning over, this is what happens: The small cam that operates the points has the points in the closed position, so battery current is flowing through the coil primary, through the closed points to negative. This causes the primary winding inside the coil to set up a magnetic field. When the cam starts to open the points, the current tries to bridge the gap. If we let this happen, the big arc between the point surfaces would burn up in a hurry, and the plugs would not fire for the following reason: The ignition coil is a transformer. It has a primary and secondary winding.The secondary winding has many more turns of wire than the primary. When the secondary winding "cuts" magnetic lines of force a larger voltage is induced in the secondary. In the case on your sporty, we are boosting 12 volts to over 10,000 volts. This depends on 2 things: The number of lines of force and the speed they are cut. So, when the points just start to open, the condenser absorbes the current until the points are open enough to prevent arcing. Then the current flow through the primary winding stops. The magnetic field quickly collapses, cutting through the secondary windings that are connected to the spark plugs. The resulting high voltage (pressure) Jumps the gap on both plugs and lights the fire. One of the cylinders is on the exhaust stroke so that spark is wasted. So: ignition on : 12v at coil positive. With points closed, 0 volts at coil negative. If you read voltage here, the points are dirty or open or the wire from the coil to the points is open. Points open: 12 volts at coil negative. To check for spark, you don't have to crank the engine. Just manually opening the points should fire the plugs. After you get the plugs firing, post again and I will tell you how to razor tune this thing. It should start instantly with a perfect idle. Hope this is clear.