I have a goodmans mini oil filled radiator model 293841. Its base front foot has locked and I am not able to remove it. I need to travel and put this into box. Please help me how can I remove. thank you.

Question edited for clarity and add Maker.
Question moved to model category.

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it fills through the dipstick tube, with engine running,

I dodn't know your model really well but it will be one of the following:
a clip on foot that you just pull down on to remove,
a clip on foot with a button at the back of the pressure foot holder - press the button to release the foot
a clip on foot with a little lever at the back of the pressure foot holder - lift the lever to release the foot
If it is a clip on foot, then you just need to raise the pressure foot lever, put your fingers onto the pressure foot and press downwards, it should unclip.

To put one on, place the pressure foot onto the needle plate under the pressure foot bar and lower the pressure foot bar down onto the foot, lining up the base of the foot holder with the little bar on the foot, it should click into place.

Hi, you have to follow the instruction below to remove and replace the thermostat....
Removal

• Disconnect the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Always use a socket wrench or close-ended wrench on the battery connector so you don't ruin the head of the bolt.
• Drain antifreeze from the cooling system. The simplest way to do this is to have the vehicle on jack stands. Open the radiator cap to relieve pressure -- make sure the engine is cool before you do this. Use a bucket or pan to catch coolant under the radiator. Open the radiator drain on the bottom of the radiator with pliers or by hand. The 3.1L engine has an air bleed valve on the throttle body which you should open two turns.
• Remove the drain plugs located on the underside of the block just above the oil pan and let the coolant drain into your pan or bucket. Close all the drain plugs.
• Unbolt the the water outlet from the thermostat, if your Cutlass has a four-cylinder engine. All other models have the water outlet on the intake manifold. Remove the outlet and the thermostat. If your Cutlass has cruise control, remove the vacuum modulator bracket from the thermostat housing.

Installation

• Use the scraper tool to clean the surfaces where the thermostat and engine block meet. Apply a bead of RTV in the water outlet groove.
• Put your new thermostat in place on the housing. Make sure the side with the spring goes towards the engine. Tighten the thermostat bolts with the torque wrench to the specifications provided. Remember that tightening specifications for the mounting bolts vary between parts manufacturers. If your engine has an air bleed valve near the throttle body, close that too.
• Check that you have closed and tightened the radiator drain and the two drain plugs near the oil pan. Pour the coolant back into the radiator, adding extra coolant if necessary to fill to the base of the radiator neck. Fill the radiator overflow tank to the "FILL" mark with coolant.
• Leave the radiator cap off, start and idle the engine. The coolant level visible in the radiator should drop slightly. Fill it back up to the base of the radiator neck. Put the radiator cap back on and make sure the arrow on the cap points towards the overflow tank. With the engine still idling, squeeze the outlet hose with your hand. The outlet hose is the big one that connects to the top of the radiator. If you feel it getting hot, this tells you the thermostat has opened up and is functioning properly.
• Turn off the engine. Check for leaks on hose fittings and around the drains. Check that the hoses all appear sound and that none are leaking or cracked.

find sheet metal shop thy can make one'or if you dont have no kids or cat or dogs in house put brick under it

these heaters are factory filled and sealed, there is no way of adding oil.

1/Open oil filer neck/hole above foot clutch
2/Drain the oil from cranckcase, drain bolt in front of centre stand. Use a catcher for used oil.
3/Remove oil filter case @ centre of engine block below rad, that hump looking item
4/Put new oil filter the reverse of taking oil filter off.
5/ Close drain hole securely
6/Put new oil into cranckcase abt 3L, check dipstick to see how full it is, if needed continue filling until proper amount is in the cranckcase.
7/ Close the filler neck and it is ready to play
8/ Good enough free advise?

We have these heaters and haven't had a fuse fail yet. I think it's because after the first time I got that crackling sound after moving it while it was on, I stopped doing that, and only move it with the power off, and wait two minutes before restarting it, so the oil can resettle.

However, the thermostats are now failing. Anyone know if this part is available?

The Lakewood 5500 heater may not heat, yet all lights are on, due to the thermal fuse inside the control box being blown.

It works like a normal fuse, yet will blow if the temperature gets too hot. When it opens, it will prevent any electricity to get to the heating coils and connot be reset. It must be replaced.

You can open the control area by removing the front foot of the unit, removing another screw behind that foot. This will allow you to slide the whole control end off the unit. At the bottom next to the heating element, you will notice 3 wires to the elements - red, blue, & white.

The white wire runs underneath the terminals & is sheathed. Under this sheath is the thermal fuse.

Be sure to replace it with the same temperature rating (167 C).


I don't recommend bypassing the thermal fuse, however, due to it's a safety issue.

I found the fuse at the following link:

http://www.goodmans.net/get_item_th-tf167c_thermal-fuse-167-degrees-celsius.htm

DONT BUY A NEW ONE THEY ARE EXPENSIVE ... THEY PUT OUT VERY LITTLE ACTUAL BTU'S OF HEAT ...IT WOULD BE DANGEROUS TO TRY AND BRAZE ANY LEAK POINTS AND THE OIL IS NOT CAR OIL AND NEEDS TO BE FILLED TO FACTORY SPECIFIED LEVELS. (THESE ARE NOT MEANT TO BE RE-FILLED OR DOES THE OIL USUALLY DIASAPATE). OIL HEATERS OF THIS TYPE USE PLENTY OF ELECTRICITY. I SUGGEST A "HIGH QUALITY, THICK CASED, WITH TILT SAFTY, ELECTRIC SPACE HETER WITH A FAN. THEY HEAT PROBLEM AREAS SAFE AND EFFECTIVELY.