I am searching for the michael graves kitchen scrub brush with holder. Its approx 4-5 inches long black with a hole in the top in order to place it on holder. It is very strong rubber with a brush a

sadly none i know repairs toasters any more they buy new and trash the old

Sounds like it got damp andthe motor brushes a stuck in thir holders take them out and give them a gentle rub with wet and dry paper on all surfaces after drying them gently by putting them on a radiator or similar warm place like an airing cupboard . Also put a roll of wet/dry paper into the brush holder holes so it presses onto the commutator while turning the motor This cleans the commutator If it does not work after replacing the brushes seek help from an appliance expert. Obviously if you can't get to the brushes to start with you need the expert from the start

Find a small piece of round plastic about 1/4 inch. The piece that you have can be filed so it fits in the hole. Get some felt and place it on it. The holder on top isn't so important. If you want that you can get a piece of plastic (very elastic style) and carefully drill a hole to fit. An easier way is to make a small hole in an eraser and push it on top.

this is an easy one for me as this was happening with my same machine it was under a 5 year guarantee and i got a professional hot point approved repairer out he didn't even take his tool box out as this is an easy repair and a consistent bung up area
remove detergent drawer look up on at top of drawer holder and you see a small hole see picture (if i can upload picture) unbend a paper clip and push up hole removing the gummed up fabric conditioner while your in there spray tunnel with bleach and scrub with hand brush to remove black gunk from tunnel and flush
put draw back and should take fabric conditioner as normal as you have freed pipe were water is injected to flush out fabric conditioner

Hey there! To change out your brush heads simply follow the instructions below.

1. Remove the nozzle by pulling the two nozzle release buttons.
2. Tilt cleaner back so handle rests on floor.
3. Push two brush release buttons and remove the brush assembly.
4. To replace brushes align post on brush block with hole on bottom of cleaner. Turn brushes slightly until post fits easily into hole. Press brush assembly firmly to snap into place.

Hope this helps!

Mine did the same thing!!

Hi Julie - This is likely a Target Michael Graves product . Generally , parts for the Target Graves products are not sold . I am not familair with the size of the whistler you need . The only Michael Graves replacement kettle whistle available is the Alessi version .

Your alternator-mounted voltage regulator has failed. Luckily, your voltage regulator is
replaceable separately from the alternator (most voltage regulators are integral to the alternator,
and cannot be separately serviced).

Note: this works for 3.8L cobra alternators/voltage regulators only - in the 4.6L model, the
voltage regulator is an integral component of the alternator.

1999 Ford Mustang Cobra -3.8L engine

3.8L Engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove 4 Torx® head screws holding the voltage regulator to the alternator rear housing. Remove the regulator, with the brush and terminal holder attached.

Fig. 1. The regulator and brush/terminal holder are mounted on the backside of the alternator




Fig. 2. The regulator and brush/terminal holder are secured by 4 Torx® head machine screws




Fig. 3. Hold the regulator while removing the screws to prevent the regulator from dropping out and damaging the brushes





3. Hold the regulator in one hand and pry off the cap covering the A terminal screw head with a small prybar.

4. Remove 2 Torx® head screws retaining the regulator to the brush holder. Separate the regulator from the brush holder.



Fig. 4. Slide the regulator out-the brushes will move out of the holder




Fig. 5. The brush and terminal holder can be separated from the regulator once it is removed from the alternator




=========================================================
To install:

1. Install the brush holder on the regulator with 2 retaining screws. Tighten the screws to 25-35 inch lbs. (2.8-4.0 Nm).

2. Install the cap on the head of the A terminal screw.

3. Depress the brushes into the holder and hold the brushes in position by inserting a standard size paper clip, or equivalent tool, through both the location hole in the regulator and through the holes in the brushes.

Fig. 6. When installing the regulator, press the brushes back into the housing




Fig. 7. Use a thin piece of soft material, like this plastic wire tie, to hold the brushes in position while replacing the regulator, or use a paper clip inserted in the hole





4. Install the regulator/brush holder assembly and remove the paper clip. Install the attaching screws and tighten to 20-30 inch lbs. (2.3-3.4 Nm).

5. Connect the negative battery cable.

Jim, hi- um, you're reading this with your son, right?

Inspect the brushes carefully, be sure that the little copper wire is firmly attached to both the brush and the little disc at the other end of the spring. Clean the brushes well, allow no oil at all to contact them and if they have gotten oil on them (including cooking oil) clean them with a spray can of electric motor cleaner. If you use non-flammable motor cleaner you will have less of a chance of starting a fire, but it's much slower to evaporate. When you put the brushes in, look at the ends and turn the brush so that the hollow worn into the end fits properly to the commutator. The mixer will run with the brushes turned wrong, but it's simply good practice to fit them properly.

Dust and corrosion will accumulate between brushes and their holders, and it's very possible for a brush to not go all the way into position when reinserted. Again, the electric motor cleaner will help- spray a bit down the hole and on the brush, slide the brush in and out and note any stickiness as it reaches the bottom of the hole. Each brush must contact the commutator with the full pressure of the spring behind it and be free to move as the machine is used and the brushes erode. Note that cleaning the holders can take several tries, and if there is crud in the holder the condition will get worse before it gets better, so take note of how the brush moves, especially at the bottom of its travel. When it's clean you'll be able to hear it contact the commutator when you put it down the brush holder.

If you look down the brush hole you'll see the commutator- the copper bars of the commutator should have a pretty, burnished appearance and the insulation between them should be clean and not standing up above the bars. Black sooty looking deposits and/or pitting indicate that the brushed have not been advancing to the commutator with wear as they should, and arcing has been taking place. This will be caused by dirty brushes binding in their holders or by worn out brushes that are unable to advance or by the commutator bars wearing faster than the insulation between them- a condition referred to as "high mica".

Good luck, and buy that kid some tools- there's a lot more to discover inside that mixer..

lp

The problem I found with one a neighbor was tossing out is the bearings in the part that drives the brushes were stuck. Lubing them up solved the problem, but took a bit of work to get into. This also provides a good chance to clean the crud out of bits that usually don't get much attention. I found mine clogged with a fair amount of pet hair.


You'll need a Phillips & Flat Screwdriver, some light machine (3-in-1) oil or Lithium (white) grease, and a lot of patience. Having a pan or something handy to keep all the little bits organized would help.


First remove both the soap & recovery tanks, they'll just get in the way & are designed to be easily removed & replaced for filing/dumping. Be sure to fold the "wings" for the recovery tank in or they'll foul removing the cover later (as will the brush speed button).

The tricky part is getting the Brush Speed knob off. It's held on only by friction, but can be tough to pull for without breaking the plastic stick it's pushed onto.


Remove the brushes. There are 4 blocks between the outer & next in rollers. Put the flat screwdriver between the gray & clear plastic, pushing gently toward the brushes. This pushes a wedge away far enough from a hole in the gray plastic to "unhook" the brush housing from the main body. Once all 4 are clear, the brush assembly should pull out easily.

Remove the 2 big screws in front of the brushes and the one at the back of the clear plastic front of the vacuum bit. The small ones at the extreme front corners hold on the clear plastic front, and can be removed if you want to clean out the vacuum channel, but are not necessary to remove to remove the top.

Toward the back sides of the top are 2 slots that hold this part on. Once the front screws are removed & the front is loose, push the side in gently & you should be able to lift the back of the cover. Push in lift both side, the top should pop right off.

Now I have the top off, holding 2 black & 1 silver long screw. In the center-front of the new-exposed guts is a box with a round top & a cone at the front with 2 screws.

This is the Brush Motor Assembly, and it's actually vacuum-powered. Remove the 2 screws holding down the from, then look for 2 large holes on the bottom of the unit behind the black "squirter bar".

There's very long screws at the bottom of these holes that also hold down the brush motor.Once the 2 bottoms screws have been fully loosened & the top-front screws removed, the brush motor should pull up easily.

On the right is a square port, in front the the brush speed stick (where the gray button pops onto). on the left is a gray & black hose, these should pull off easily, but may have some liquid in them.

Pull out the brush motor & set it on a convenient spill-resistant work surface upside-down. You should see the square-hole drice for the brushes, a gray piece of plastic, & a cresent-shaped hole.

The port at the front & hole on bottom provide an air path for the vacuum to poll air through this assembly & spin the brushes. You should see 2 screws at the back of the motor & 2 more at the bottom of holes surrounded by the gray plastic. Remove all 4 screws.

You can now pull off the bottom cover with the gray plastic. Front to back you should see the brush drive gear, an intermidiate gear, ant one of the bearings for the fan that drives the whole thing. pulling out the bearing & gears to clean out this area & lube up the gears with some Lithium Grease helps, as well as making sure the bearing is well lubed with 3-in-1 oil and/or lithium grease.

The top is held on at this point with 4 platic clips. The top doesn't need to be removed unless you *really* have to see the fan. The clips can be broken off if one is not careful, and there's nothing in there to be lubed. Best to leave it as-is.

At the top of the driveshaft is a second sealed bearing. I couldn't figure out how to get it out without braking it, lube this one in place. The bearings are supposed to be sealed, so removing the black "washer" from the bearing is done completely at your own risk. I just put some oil on there, spun it to work it in, then repeated with the white grease.

Replace the intermediate gear, the brush drive gear, then the lower sealed bearing in that order. You can spin the gears to ensure they're spinning well. Mine was OK, but after a bit of use worked the grease in & the brushes really started spinning.

Keep in mind everything here except the screws is plastic, be creful to get a snug fit with the screws without overtightening. "Gorilla-ing" the screws will just break the plastic & make the whole adventure an exercise in frustration.

Reattach the bottom plate with all 4 screws, 2 in the holes in the gray plastic, 2 in the back.

Reattach the gray & balck hoses to the left side of the brush drive. They're 2 different sizes, so there's only 1 place the smaller hose will fit easily. Place the assembly back in the machine & replace the 2 screws in the front.

Flip the machine up so you can put the 2 really long screws back into the underside of the brush drive. There's 2 guide slots on either side, make sure the brush with the indicator wheel on top goes into the big hole on the right. You may need to spin the brushes a bit to get the center squure stick to line up with the hole in the drive gear. The brushes should pop back in easily if everything's lined up right.


Put the top cover on, making sure the Brush Speed stick & center screwhole line up, as well as the back sides snap into place.

Screw down the top, then flip the unit up so you can snap the bottom-front of the top over the gray wedges on the front, then screw into place.

Replace the Recovery Tank, fill & replace the solution tank, and test-drive.


Vanger Chevane.