Generator starts but won't keep running

Look at the voltage ammeter on the generator control panel, if the ammeter and voltmeter on the generator control panel is still 220 V, the output empty is turned off. If the voltmeter on the generator control panel shows a voltage of 0, then your electric ball is broken, please check if the excitation voltage is missing, and check if the three-phase winding is burned.

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Running the car will drain the battery it if it's not charging ! An if your charging light is on it isn't charging ! Did you check power an grounds on the alternator ? There is a single heavier wire on the back of the alternator, this should have battery voltage ! You may want to take this to a ASE certified repair shop !
Functionality
With the ignition switch in the RUN position, voltage is applied through the warning indicator I circuit 904 (LG/RD) to the voltage regulator. This turns the regulator on, allowing current to flow from battery sense A circuit 35 (OG/LB) to the generator field coil. When the engine is started, the generator begins to generate alternating current (AC) which is internally converted to direct current (DC). This current is then supplied to the vehicle's electrical system through the output (B+) terminal of the generator.
Once the generator begins generating current, a voltage signal is taken from the generator stator and fed back to the regulator S circuit 4 (WH/BK). This voltage feedback signal (typically half the battery voltage) is used to turn off the warning indicator.
With the system functioning normally, the generator output current is determined by the voltage of the A circuit 35 (OG/LB). The A circuit 35 (OG/LB) voltage is compared to a set voltage internal to the regulator, and the regulator controls the generator field current to maintain the correct generator output.
The set voltage will vary with temperature and is typically higher in cold temperatures and lower in warm temperatures. This allows for better battery recharge in the winter and reduces the chance of overcharging in the summer.
Battery Positive Output (B+) Circuit 38 (BK/OG)
The generator output is supplied through the battery positive output (B+) terminal on the back of the generator to the battery and electrical system.
I Circuit 904 (LG/RD)
The I (ignition) circuit 904 (LG/RD) is used to turn on the voltage regulator. This circuit is powered up with the ignition switch in the RUN position. This circuit is also used to turn the charging system warning indicator on if there is a fault in the charging system operation.
A Circuit 35 (OG/LB)
The A (battery sense) circuit 35 (OG/LB) is used to sense battery voltage. This voltage is used by the regulator to determine generator output. This circuit is used to supply current to the generator field (rotor). The amount of current supplied to the rotor will determine generator output.
S Circuit 4 (WH/BK)
The S (stator) circuit 4 (WH/BK) is used to feed back a voltage signal from the generator to the regulator. This voltage is used by the regulator to turn off the charging system warning indicator. The S circuit is fed back externally on external mounted regulator generators.
Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical

• Battery case, posts, hold-down clamp, cables and connections
• Generator drive (serpentine) belt for condition and tension to make sure there is no slip between the belt and the pulley. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05 .
• Battery charge
• Generator pulley

• Battery junction box (BJB)Mega Fuse
• Battery junction box fuse:
  • 11 (20A)
• Central junction box (CJB) fuse:
  • 30 (30A)
• Circuitry
• Charging system warning indicator
• Cables

1. Check the operation of the charging system warning indicator lamp (instrument cluster). Normal operation is as follows:
   • With the ignition switch OFF, the charging system warning indicator should be OFF.
   • With the ignition switch in RUN and the engine off, the charging system warning indicator light should be on.
   • With the engine running, the charging system warning indicator light should be off.

1. Verify the battery condition. Refer to Section 414-01 .

Normal Charging System Voltages and Charging System Warning Indicator Operation Ignition Switch Position A Circuit 35 (OG/LB) S Circuit 4 (WH/BK) I Circuit 904 (LG/RD) Generator B+ Circuit 38 (BK/OG) Battery Engine to Battery Ground Charging System Warning Indicator Operation OFF 12 volts 0 volts 0 volts 12 volts 12 volts 0 volts Off RUN-engine off 12 volts 0 volts 1-3 volts 12 volts 12 volts 0 volts Illuminated RUN-engine running 13-
15 volts 1/2 battery voltage 13-
15 volts 13-
15 volts 13-
15 volts 0 volts Off

1. If the customer concern is verified after the initial inspection, refer to the Symptom Chart to determine which tests to carry out.
2. • The charging system warning indicator is on with the engine running (the system voltage does not increase)
   • Circuitry.
   • Voltage regulator.
   • Generator.
   • GO to Pinpoint Test B .
   Your whole problem is the alternator is not charging , a couple tests with a volt meter would tell you !

The toggle switch automatically resets all faults when it is turned to the off position. I would turn the toggle switch off, turn off the breaker on the generator and then turn off all the loads in the house except a few lights. Turn the generator breaker back on, then turn the toggle switch back to automatic. If it starts and stays running, you were overloading the generator. Turn on other loads slowly and keep track of what is on so you don't overload it again. If it still does not stay on, you may have a problem with the panel. Let me know what happens.

How soon after starting does it shut down?
The hour meter is fed directly from the AC output off the generator stator, if there is no AC output the meter will not run. Assuming it shutdowns quickly, check 1st the oil level and make sure the low oil sender unit is ok, wire #24 to ground. If that is bad it will shut down. Check to see if you have 240V on L1 and L2 on the breaker for the brief time it does start, that will confirm stator/rotor has an output, then your problem moves from the generator portion to either the oil sender, or control board.

to get that voltage , it would have to be revving very high
volts on a gen set are set by engine rpms
start it again ad keep manual control of the governor lever and adjust the speed screw ( controls the spring tension to the gov lever) to the 240 v output
a straight ac gen set is a pure sine wave --it is the inverter sets that have a squared of sine wave

The voltage regulator for the generator is not work, replace it. Why, if there no dc voltage to excite the stator it won't any output. GB...stewbison

Here are the most common reasons for your condition.

CHECK IF ENGINE KEEPS RUNNING The most common complaint is that the engine starts but will not keep running when the START switch is released. This happens because the control board will not allow the engine to continue running if the generator is not producing voltage or if the oil pressure signal is not present. See CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING on the Troubleshooting Chart for your model. If the engine will not keep running, do the following:
A1. Generator AC Output Check the generator AC output voltage as soon as the engine starts. Models showing "B1-B2 Volts" or "L1 AC Volts" under CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING need this AC voltage to keep running. Read between the points shown on the Troubleshooting Chart. If the AC voltage readings are good, proceed to "B" below.
A2. Field Flash If there is no AC, check for 10-12 VDC at the FIELD FLASH pin of the control board during cranking. If the field flash voltage is not present, the control board is defective. If the field flash voltage is present, the wiring or regulator may be defective. To eliminate the wiring, check continuity between the FIELD FLASH pin of the control board and pin 7 of the regulator. If the continuity is good, either the regulator or the field circuit (rotor and brushes) may be the problem.
A3 Field Circuit Check the field circuit by unplugging the regulator and measuring the resistance between pins 9 and 10 of the regulator’s mating plug. This reading should be 22 to 28 ohms. If this reading is too high, check the brushes and/or clean the slip rings (use the Slick Stick, or a similar tool). If this reading is too low, there may be a short in the rotor. Also, check the resistance from pins 9 and 10 to ground. This reading should be very high or infinity. If not, there is likely a ground in the rotor. If these readings are all good, the regulator is likely defective.
3
A4 External Excitation To confirm that the regulator is defective, turn off the generator’s AC circuit breaker(s), reconnect the regulator and apply 12 volts through a diode to pin 9 of the regulator plug (see illustration) while attempting to start the engine. CAUTION: DO NOT attempt this without the diode. If you do, there will be fireworks! Remove the 12 volts within 1-2 seconds after the engine starts. If the genset now continues to run and produces normal AC voltage, the generator is OK and the regulator is defective. If the genset does not continue to run but produces about 40% of normal AC voltage, again the generator is OK and the regulator is defective. If no AC voltage is produced, the generator may have a problem that is beyond the scope of this guide. Re-check all wiring for security and signs of damage. It may be necessary to take the unit to a qualified repair shop.
B. Check the oil pressure switch as soon as the engine starts. Models showing "LOP to GND" under CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING need the oil pressure switch to be closed to ground when running. If the voltage on the LOL/LOP SW pin of the control does not go to near zero, the switch is not closing. These switches sometimes stick open if the generator has not been used or exercised often enough. Multiple start/stop cycles and/or tapping on the oil pressure switch will sometimes fix it. It may be necessary to temporarily jumper the switch to ground to keep the engine running. This can be done at the switch or at the OIL LOL/LOP SW pin on the control board. Models showing "LOP Open" under CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING have electronic governors and require the low oil pressure switch to be closed at starting but open during running. When the switch opens, the governor module places a ground on the oil pressure input of the control board (P1-5). It is OK to temporarily ground P1-5 on this model to keep the engine running. NOTE: See chart for oil pressure and oil level switch locations.
C. If there is AC voltage present on B1-B2 or L1 AC, as applicable, and the correct oil pressure/level signal is present at the OIL LOL/LOP SW input of the control board, and the engine will not keep running, the control board is defective.

This should help you get it going.

Kelly

You dont say whether this is a newly developed problem or an unexpected one. Has it ever powered these items? If yes, then the unit needs to be checked out that it has not got bad brushes on the generators commutator.

1) check the wattage required to run each one. and compare it to the watts output of the Gen Set Microwaves are usually about 600-1000W and most generators of a portable nature are about 600W 25amps

A/C require a generator capable of 1KVA to power any decent size A/C other than a small window unit for a small caravan and certainly not a Mwave A/C at thye same time without showing signs of variant output( dimming)

Perhaps more information is needed here.

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Hi, The 4000 rv unit unit is equipped with full diagnostics, and is indicated by the status light blinking. The blinking sequence, blinks a code as to the fault. If your unit runs and the status light is on without blinking, it is either the circuit breaker on the genset or in your distribution panel that needs to be reset. Good Luck, this should Fixya!