I want to buy a book - Cars & Trucks

OK LOCATED IN CANADA AND CAR IS NOT SOLD HERE, SO NO BOOKS HERE USA.
THE 1.3 IS NOT CARB FUELED RIGHT? IS TBI OR MPI, (YOU SAID RAIL)
NOT TOLD AT THE GET GO
ENGINE IS DEAD BUT CRANKS FAST AN BATTERY IS NOW KEPT FULLY CHARGED WITH A CHARGER
OR DIAGNOSES WILL FAIL AS BATTERY GETS WEAK AND EFI GOES NUTS
1991 SUPER OLD CAR, MOST ARE DEAD NOW. DID YOU BUY A DEAD CAR?
THE ENGINE HAS CAM TIMING BELT ARE YOU RUNNING OVER 100K MILES AND NOW IT SLIPPED AS ALL DO , AND NOT IS GROSSLY OUT OF TIME AND THE ECU DOES CUTS FUEL LIKE THAT. TO STOP CRASH AND BURN OR JUST LIKE THIS.
DO THE CAM BELT SERVICE FIRST.

FIRST DRIP TESTS MEAN ZERO AT ANY RAIL PORT UNLESS DRIP IS DRY. (NO DRIPS)
ONLY FUEL PRESSURE MATTERS CRANKING ANY DEAD EFI ENGINE

HERE WATCH SCOTTY

https://youtu.be/064Ilsz8Fzg

THE DRIBBLE TEST PROVES NOTHING, UNLESS DRY!!!!!!!!!

BAD ENGINE (OR CAMB BELT DEAD)
BAD SPARK ON 1 OR MORE CYLINDERS. WE TEST THEM ALL
AND FUELING IS LAST. EFI END TO END AND LAST THE PUMP ,NEVER FIRST
NEVER TAKE A BATH IN FUEL ,PROVE THE PUMP IS BAD. (GAUGES)

FACTS
The third-generation Fiesta Mark III, codenamed BE-13, was unveiled at the end of 1988
ENGINE
1989–1995 HCS 1.0L, 1.1 L, 1.3 L (used in Fiesta Mk.3, Orion Mk.2/Escort Mk3-6) A PUSH ROD ENGINE (OHV)

The HCS engine is easily distinguishable from the original Valencia by the rocker cover, head and block being painted grey instead of black, the presence of a crankshaft position sensor adjacent to the starter motor, and the absence of a distributor drive on the rear face of the cylinder block. The mechanical fuel pump also has a return line to tank, whereas the original Valencia did not. The HCS also has a "mirrored" spark plug arrangement where the plug leads appear to be splayed outwards, whilst on the original Valencia they are all at the same angle.
OHV PUSH RODS TO CAM AND SHORT CHAIN DRIVE.
I AM NO SURE WHAT ENGINE IS REALLY THERE NOR FUELING PARTS

Chiltons book or Haynes manual will have this in the emissions section and if you don't want to buy the books go to the library and print it out from there's or rent the book but you should buy it that way you always have it when you need it

there are car books that advertise all the cars that are for sale
go to a book shop and buy the books
go e-bay or gum tree and type in--I want to buy( make and model)

Many car parts stores, and even some public libraries have sets of books you can buy or check out to tell you how to do this job.
Some of the names of these sets are "Motor's", "Chilton's", and "Haines".
You can buy or check out the book according to your year, make, and model.
The book will walk you through the job.
God bless your efforts.

buy the book that specifies all torque settings trust me if you buy a 20 dollars book many headaches will go away,all cars have a specific manual that usualy comes with the vehicle,but car manuals are available at car parts stores ,even the computer is slow compared to the index of this book and it s specifications.on the lighter side I torqued mine at 30lbs

Go to any Autozone or Advance Store and buy the Chiltons Repair Book for your vehicle. I love there books or if they don't have Chiltons ask for Haynes Repair Book. Makes it so easy for anyone to do any repairs on there own vehicle. I always buy there books when I buy another vehicle. Hope this helps and Good Luck. They have step by step pictures all thru the book too....

before you buy one at a book store go to a public library and look for a haynes or chilton repair book, but keep in mind that their info is usually generic in nature rather than specific to your car9 some of their books detail some fixs as to complicated and refer you to a pro. mechanic) i' rather not buy a book that doesnot give all the answers so check library first